The New New York
April 30, 2001
Joe
Bastianich - scion of a New York restaurant family, vintner and
successful restaurateur in his own right - is also the enophilic equivalent
of an NFL tight end: large, strong and tireless. At Italian
Wine Merchants - his retail partnership with chef Mario
Batali and manager Sergio
Esposito - he's in his element, holding forth on the glories of
contemporary Italian wine and food.
"We saw an opportunity to create a showroom of Italian wine and
culture," he says of the store, which features a carefully annotated
selection up front and "Studio
del Gusto," as they call the large tasting room and display
kitchen, in back.
In fact, it is more of a showroom than a traditional retail operation.
Despite an inviting decor (worn Persian rugs, a collection of antique
corkscrews), only an estimated 5 percent of the store's customers
are walk-ins. The bulk of the business is in phone sales and portfolio
management.
What these determined Italian-wine hounds seek is an enviable price-to-quality
ratio. "We've had enough of super Tuscans," Bastianich maintains.
"Wines from Friuli are what we're into now." Value conscious,
yes, but the store can still set you up with a Tua Rita Giusto di
Notri 1998 (90, $75). "Uniquely Italian," Bastianich continues.
"That's what we want our wines to be." The big man has spoken.
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