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IWM
e-Letter: July 13, 2004
Barolo Legend: Bartolo Mascarello |
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In
this Issue:
• The
Last of the Mohicans
• "French vanilla doesn't belong here..."
• Uncork 1964 and Cellar 1999 |
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and
more:
• Drink While You Wait!
• Uncover The Mystique of Barolo
• A Wine Club with Mascarello |
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The Last of the Mohicans
A lot has changed in the legendary wine-making
region of Piemonte. Over the past two decades
a new wave of producers has emerged in the
region, revealing different personalities of
the majestic nebbiolo grape. And to their credit,
the modernists have made Barolo more approachable.
However, Barolo is a wine of patience and,
like the great wine-making regions of Europe,
it possesses an ancient, glorious past that
cannot be forgotten.
There is a handful of gladiators who continue to protect this past way of life
and resist all temptations to bow to commercial
pressures. The use of long maceration (capello
sommerso) and aging in large old barrels (botti)
of local oak and chestnut are perfected, not
disregarded. These true artisans are Piemonte’s greatest producers: Giacomo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa, and, most notably, Bartolo Mascarello.
Read on below to learn about an unprecented offering of the 1964 vintage and the highly anticipated arrival of the 1999s. Discover why this great man in his late seventies, confined to a wheelchair, has a cult following. Should you have additional questions or want to purchase these wines, please call Perry
Porricelli at 212.473.2323.
Click
for more wines from IWM!
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"French vanilla
doesn't belong here..."
Bartolo Mascarello,
the great elder statesman of Barolo, speaks
with the same candidness and fervor as
the younger Angelo Gaja. However, for Bartolo
the passion is for the preservation of
Barolo’s historic past, which emphasizes
the flavors of the local land rather than
wood grown in Limousin, France or roto-fermentors
designed Down Under. Until a few years
ago, this gentle man refused even to have
a telephone in his office.
Bartolo makes his wine the same way he did 50 years ago, through techniques that
go back centuries and which were inherited
when he was an apprentice under his father,
Giulio, one of the true icons of Barolo.
Despite his owning vines on the prestigious
Cannubi hilltop, Bartolo's wine is not
a cru selection; it is a blend from Canubbi,
San Lorenzo, Rue, and Rocche. His approach
is simple: low yields and ripe fruit
from Barolo’s best vines, blended for
consistent quality and style. Like his
father, he now instills these same values
and techniques in the next generation,
his daughter Maria Teresa, who will carry
on the artisan’s craft and represent
the future of Barolo’s
Old School.
Click for Barolo's other great traditionalist, Giacosa!
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Uncork 1964 and Cellar 1999
This is a unique and rare offering
for connoisseurs and aspiring collectors. In
a good year, Bartolo
produces approximately 1,500 cases, of which
only a small percentage is exported to the States.
Many of these wines are well-cellared from Sergio’s
own collection. For this limited offering, IWM
is including wines of Mascarello unavailable
anywhere else in the US, including the 40-year
old 1964 bottling, as well as wines from the
landmark 1990 and 1997 vintages and Tre Bicchieri
winners from 1989, 1998, and 1999. For the younger
wines, we encourage you to remain patient and
open the wines 10-30 years after their vintage
dates.
WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT FROM YOUR INVESTMENT:
Last February, Sergio and Eric Asimov, chief
wine critic for The New York Times, travelled
to Italy and tasted the great wines of Bartolo
Mascarello. While there, Eric had the unique
opportunity to taste and write about the 1964
Mascarello Barolo: "...an unforgettable
wine full of signature aromas of tar, truffles,
tobacco, and yet as fresh as a wine 30 years
younger."
TYPICAL MASCARELLO WINE NOTES:
A ten-year old Barolo from Bartolo will typically
carry the traditional garnet red with highlights
of orange bracing the rim. A delicate and enticing
bouquet of old rose petals, violet, and licorice
embrace the nose. On the palate, there is serious
structure and exquisite balance with flavors
of dried cherries, tobacco, leather, tar, and
tell-tale truffle. Acidity and tannins are
firmly braced by noble structure. These are
the trademarks of a well-made, traditional
Barolo from Bartolo Mascarello!
*Please note that the super ripe vintages of
1990 and 1997 will provide even more fruit flavor
and can be more accessible. Contact our portfolio
managers for more information on these vintages
or to find out when to uncork these classics.
IWMs' LEGENDARY BAROLOS OF MASCARELLO:
Bottles (750ml):
1996 Mascarello Barolo $ 96.90
1997 Mascarello Barolo $ 84.95
1998 Mascarello Barolo $ 72.75
1999 Mascarello Barolo $ 77.99
Magnums (1.5L):
1964 Mascarello Barolo $926.00
1986 Mascarello Barolo $598.00
1988 Mascarello Barolo $546.77
1989 Mascarello Barolo $552.27
1990 Mascarello Barolo $618.58
1996 Mascarello Barolo $198.33
1997 Mascarello Barolo $189.95
1999 Mascarello Barolo $170.00
Click here to order Mascarello Barolo by fax!
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Drink While You Wait!
While you wait for the powerful Barolos of Mascarello to mature, experience his evocative Dolcettos and Barberas. These are perfect summer reds: easy to drink, approachable when young, and great with food.
Bartolo Mascarello 2001 Barbera
d'Alba $27.50 (750ml)
Even better than
the 1998 we showcased two weeks ago, this
wine has the same rustic deep red appearance.
Classic barbera flavors, with excellent
balance between fruit and acidity. Big,
rich, and mouth-filling, with complex aromas
of flowers, cherry, anise and eucalyptus.
Good concentration of fruit.
Bartolo Mascarello 2001 Dolcetto d'Alba $22.00 (750ml)
Bright red-ruby. Ripe fruit and pepper notes fill the nose, while hints of
licorice, fresh herbs, and minerals awaken
the palate. Medium-bodied with well-integrated
tannins and soft fruit make this a clean
and elegant dolcetto.
Click here to order Mascarello wines
by fax!
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Uncover The Mystique of Barolo
The Mystique of Barolo
Maurizio Rosso and Chris Meir $95.00
This beautiful, newly translated volume covers
Italy's most important wine. The book features
35 fascinating interviews with Barolo producers,
a detailed history of the noble Nebbiolo grape,
an exhaustive vintage chart (from 1868 to the
present), thoughts on Barolo production, detailed
maps and explanations of the new sub-zones. An
essential reference for the casual Italian wine
fan and professional sommelier alike.
A Wine Atlas of the Langhe:
The Great Barolo and Barbaresco Vineyards
Slow Food Editore $45.00
A ten year project for Italy's Slow Food organization,
this book describes the wines, territory and
men and women who labor to produce these legendary
reds. Town by town, the book explores the unique
features that enabled Barolo and Barbaresco to
become two of the world's most exclusive and
highly prized wines. Illustrations, label reproductions
of leading producers and insight into the social
and cultural life of the Piedmont wine industry
lie among the wealth of information between the
two covers.
Click for More Educational Titles!
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A Wine
Club That Includes Mascarello!
We can proudly say there is no other. Through
IWM's Patron Wine Club, we open our cellar
doors and include members in something rare
and unique. Selections are not based on inventory,
but rather are driven by the desire to enlighten
collectors and enthusiasts to the world of
high quality Italian wine. Open up your palate
and learn what makes these wines great.
There is no other merchant that would include
Mascarello Barolo, the limited-production
cult favorite of the South - Montevetrano;
or the most collectible Barbaresco in the
world - Giacosa Santo Stefano; or perhaps
the great example of modern-style Barolo
from the 1997 vintage - Scavino Bric del
Fiasc. All have received the IWM Stamp of
Excellence and are Tre Bicchieri winners
or have received 95+ ratings from Parker.
In addition to receiving these wines well
below market value, members have other benefits.
For more information about Sergio's Cellar
Club or our other wine club levels, please
contact Chris Deas at 212.334.6734.
Click to view previous wines from Passport!
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