and more:
• Cerbaiona: An IWM Favorite!
• Talenti & Solaria: Father & Artisan
• Rising Stars of Montalcino

Sergio's Take On 1999 Brunello...

Having had the opportunity to visit Montalcino well over thirty times in my life I can confidently say that Montalcino is a place blessed, like very few others, with the natural raw elements needed to make a great wine. This is so because they have the four basic essentials needed to achieve greatness: soil, climate, altitude and grape variety. In other words they have the perfect terroir or ambiente for Tuscany’s noble grape Sangiovese. Why then I ask myself do so many producers make so many mediocre wines.

In the last four years I’ve had at least nine occasions to taste the wines of the ’99 vintage, a very good vintage which should have produced many great wines. In May of this year, at the Montalcino Consortium, I had my final opportunity to taste over 120 Brunelli, in one afternoon, before deciding which to buy. My decision was an easy one, but difficult for me to explain.

After much thought, I’ve decided to work with only a handful of producers out of the 220 or so there. The wines offered below, along with a few more that will be made available in the coming weeks, I believe to be the best from the ’99 vintage. Since December of 2003 our phones have been ringing off the hook with requests of a listing of ’99 Brunelli. My associates here have constantly harassed me to put together this offer, but sadly I can’t offer you more wines in good conscience because true quality is lacking in most of the wines which I have tasted.

There are many problems affecting the quality of Montalcino wines. To name a few, blending is happening at criminal rates. There are experiments with different wood vessels and fermentations that lead to odd wines, more and more “non wine people” are buying estates, and new plantings in untraditional inferior plots are producing mediocre grapes. But to me the wines produced there can be delicious and this becomes a double-edge sword. Delicious is a quality inherent in many Italian wines, making them enjoyable to many consumers. And yes, they are delicious but also they are often simple, likeable, and easy to understand, thus the American press loves them as safe wines to score highly because the masses “get them”.

This would be tremendous if not for the fact that most Brunelli retail in the $70.00 price range. At this investment level you need to have complexity, balance, and massive structure while maintaining that delicious quality. The wines below I believe have this at many different levels and price points, but most wines which you’ll find on the market, unfortunately do not. Montalcino grew much too fast and there are way too many producers who don’t have the “know how” nor trust the potential of Sangiovese. This I believe will change in years to come. The example set by Gianfranco Soldera in the ‘90’s, making outstanding wines in the poorest of vintages like ’91 and 94, has already motivated some and will eventually push the rest and I will then proudly provide a long list of Brunelli to offer. For now, I stand behind the following wines.

Should you need additional information regarding Brunello, or would like to place an order please contact our Senior Portfolio Manager, Perry Porricelli, at 212.473.2323.

Click for more on Brunello di Montaclino!

Soldera: In A League By Himself

Simply put, Gianfranco Soldera is Brunello’s Master! His tiny Case Basse estate is a cult favorite for its powerful, rustic, and long-ageing Brunellos. His freakish winemaking techniques produce exceptional wines even in the poorest of vintages. The vineyards are small, to permit manual cultivation and a short grape harvest. The vines are pruned short in the winter, with another green pruning during the growing season. Grape-thinning and limited leaf-stripping in the autumn provide more light for the grape clusters and excellent fruit ripening. In the cellar his practice resembles that of the great traditionalist Bruno Giacosa; he still ages his wine in large oak barrels from Slavonia. Combine his limited production with a devoted following of worshippers and this wine will be the most sought-after Brunello from this historic vintage.

A whole different view of Brunello, impeccably balanced. The color is a deep garnet with brilliant highlights. An exotic nose of red fruit, sweet spice, minerals, and licorice are ever evolving and explode on the palate. Full-bodied, superb concentration with layers of elegance. Each taste shows more personality and discovery.

Soldera 1999 ‘Case Basse’ $198.00 (750ml)
Soldera 1998 ‘Case Basse’ Riserva $198.00 (750ml)

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Gaja: Success With Santa Restituta

In 1994 Gaja acquired its first wine estate in Tuscany, Pieve Santa Restituta in Montalcino. The property's forty acres of vineyards produce two Brunello di Montalcino wines called Sugarille and Rennina. The parish church, or “pieve,” of Santa Restituta stands on the winery property and gives it its name. The Sugarille vineyard was first recorded in the inventory of the Pieve complied in 1547. It has remained the name of the vineyard for more than four centuries and is now also the name of the wine from this vineyard.

Deep ruby. A rich, complex nose consists of ripe fruit (plums, wild cherries, blackberries), violets, and a slight hint of cloves and tobacco. Elegant structure, ripe, silky tannins help provide for a long finish.

Santa Restituta 1999 Sugarille $125.00 (750ml)

The name Rennina dates back to the 8th century and refers to the three non-contiguous vineyard sites that provide grapes for this Brunello. The wine displays an impressive ruby color with vivid hues of red. Intense aromas of licorice, crushed cherries, spice and cedar. Full-bodied, with firm tannins and a generous range of minerals, red fruit, and meatiness that all provide for an enticing aftertaste.

Santa Restituta 1999 Rennina $105.00 (750ml)

Click here to reserve your 1999 Gaja Brunello by fax!

Rising Stars of Montalcino

Poggio Di Sotto
Piero Palmucci of Poggio Di Sotto employs the service of Giulio Gambelli, Italy’s most respected wine taster. The wine industry has bestowed upon Gambelli the title of "Master Taster" (Maestro Assaggiatore). Gambelli also consults for Soldera-Casse Base and Montevertine. Gambelli's work has focused single-mindedly on the improvement of Tuscan sangiovese wine. His methods and ideas emphasize the importance of ripe, clean fruit and cleanliness in all phases of production. These wines are successful because the high standards of the proprietors match the winemaker’s. Gambelli's wines have redder and less saturated coloration, more brilliant and more volatile red fruit aromas, higher alcohol levels, higher acidity levels, and tannins that are harder and more persistent on the finish. These wines age gracefully and are multidimensional.

Medium ruby/garnet in color. On the nose aromas of cherries, cinnamon, and vanilla exude and reappear on the palate with hints of blackberry and more sweet spice. This well disciplined Brunello offers a balance of fruit and subtle oak, as well as soft tannins that are well integrated in this rich wine.

Poggio Di Sotto 1999 Brunello $84.95 (750ml)

Il Palazzone
The vineyards of Il Palazzone are high in the Montalcino hills, which are believed to contribute to extra bold character of this sangiovese clone. Under the ownership of American Dick Parsons, the advancement continues to create the most full-bodied Brunellos.

A deep ruby color gives way to aromas of mocha, raspberry, and tobacco. On the palate this wine is rich with balanced acidity and filled with flavors of big red cherry, licorice, kirsch, and spice. The vibrant, fresh fruity tone is complimented by ripe tannins that provide for a chewy and long finish.

Il Palazzone 1999 Brunello $84.95 (750ml)

Click here to reserve your 1999 Brunello allocation by fax!