and more:
• Where Ripeness Meets Structure
• Approachability on the Lower Slopes
• IWM in the Windy City!

A Note from Sergio

No other Italian red wine has captured the attention of American wine enthusiasts like Brunello di Montalcino. After World War II, the town of Montalcino was one of the poorest towns in Toscana; today, it is one of the wealthiest. In 1961, a lone winemaker, Franco Biondi-Santi, churned out only 30,000 bottles of Brunello. In 2004, more than 220 winemakers produced about six and a half million bottles.

Because of the overwhelming amount of new wines pouring out of the region, even the savviest connoisseurs often purchase Brunello based on hype and biased scoring systems—writers reward “ready wines” in hope that they will appeal to the masses, who will, in turn, continue to buy their publication. Today, Montalcino’s wine producers are trying to satisfy these journalists’ tastes by banishing aging requirements; wines with great evolvement potential are being marginalized in the name of profit. Thankfully, Biondi-Santi and Gianfranco Soldera, arguably Montalcino’s top two quality producers, are determined to uphold Brunello’s quality and status. By insisting on aging requirements, they are leading the fight against opportunists.

Today, for my clients who hope to truly understand Brunello—and who don’t rely on scores geared to the novice—I’ve compiled a study that looks at how the varying altitudes in Montalcino’s vineyards create similarities and differences among the many wines. All variables in the study are, of course, not constant, and generalizations can oversimplify a complex subject. As well, this is just one way to comprehend the wine; IWM Portfolio Managers can help you with others. To enhance your Brunello experience now, you can read the map I’ve provided while tasting the wines listed below.

For more specific questions or to make a purchase, please contact Perry Porricelli at 212.473.2323.

My best,
Sergio Esposito

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The Vineyards of Montalcino

The Montalcino production zone can be broken into a range of subzones. Within each there are variations in altitude, soil composition, and weather patterns. In fact, the Consorzio lists more than 24 distinct microclimates in the area. However, to make it more manageable we have divided the region into three territories - central, north, and south - which are further delineated by nine subzones.

The best way to look at Montalcino is as an inverted cone with its peak just south of the town of Montalcino (think of dividing the square into four isosceles triangles as shown on the map, with the center forming the apex of the cone). From the center, the slopes generally descend outward across the region. It thus becomes apparent that one of the most influential variables in the character of these wines is altitude. This wine zone enjoys a Mediterranean climate as well as high altitudes that provide a cooling effect that is beneficial to the grapes and prevents disease.

The differences in altitude and exposition throughout the zone play a substantial role in the vegetal cycle of the vines. Due to high altitudes, cooling conditions from winds and evening temperature drops sustain a slower cycle in vineyards like Il Greppo at Biondi Santi (480m+ above sea level) than is found in lower altitudes such as the southwestern site where Argiano (250m above sea level) undergoes a more advanced cycle assisted by the sandier soils. This variance is quickly captured by juxtaposing these two wines from the same vintage: you will experience a denser, low-acid, approachable wine in the Argiano, for instance, while the less developed Biondi Santi is marked by structured tannins and high acidity ideal for longevity. This hypothesis is put to the test again with 1997 Sassetti (Pertimali) against the 1997 Campogiovanni, with the same results holding true: the Campogiovanni is much more approachable and rounder, while the Pertimali flexes its tannic muscle and demands further aging despite being from the same opulent vintage.

Click to learn more about Brunello!

High Altitude Delivers Wines of Structure

Brunello begins around the hilltop town of Montalcino. This central subzone (also known as Montalcino), along with La Croce just below it and Tavernelle to the west, forms the traditional heartland of the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. These are among the most elevated zones, where the altitudes (indicated next to the estates) provide the perfect habitat for more perfumed and elegant wines of structure and longevity, as do the southern and eastern exposure and the producers' vinification technique. These characteristics are enhanced in many of the top wines because producers intentionally balance ample but mature tannins with elevated acidity. The Tuscan treasures from the central area include the historic estates of Biondi Santi (480m), Fattoria dei Barbi, Il Palazzone, and Conti Costanti. Continuing toward Tavernelle, there are classic Brunellos from Poggio Antico (540m), Case Basse di Soldera, Pieve Santa Restituta, and Il Poggiolo (520m).

Biondi-Santi 1970 Brunello Riserva $349.00*
Biondi-Santi 1977 Brunello Riserva $225.00*
Case Basse di Soldera 1980 Brunello $289.00*
Case Basse di Soldera 1980 Brunello $598.00 (1.5L)*
Case Basse di Soldera 1981 Brunello $289.00
Case Basse di Soldera 1981 Brunello $598.00 (1.5L)*
Case Basse di Soldera 1982 Brunello $365.00*
Case Basse di Soldera 1982 Brunello $845.00 (1.5L)*
Case Basse di Soldera 1983 Brunello $299.00*
Case Basse di Soldera 1983 Brunello $625.00 (1.5L)*
Case Basse di Soldera 1984 Brunello $289.00*
Case Basse di Soldera 1984 Brunello $598.00 (1.5L)*
Case Basse di Soldera 1985 Brunello $390.00*
Case Basse di Soldera 1985 Brunello $825.00 (1.5L)*
Case Basse di Soldera 1999 Brunello $198.00
Case Basse di Soldera 1997 Brunello Riserva $299.00*
Case Basse di Soldera 1998 Brunello Riserva $198.00
Case Basse di Soldera 1999 Brunello Riserva $247.50
Conti Costanti 1985 Brunello $200.00
Conti Costanti 1988 Brunello $170.00
Conti Costanti 1990 Brunello $210.00
Conti Costanti 2000 Brunello $59.00*
Poggio Antico 1988 Brunello $165.00
Poggio Antico 1990 Brunello Riserva $360.00 (1.5L)*
Poggio Antico 1999 Brunello Riserva $89.50
Pieve Santa Restituta 1998 Brunello ‘Rennina’ $105.00
Pieve Santa Restituta 1998 Brunello ‘Rennina’ $225.00 (1.5L)
Pieve Santa Restituta 1999 Brunello ‘Rennina’ $105.00
Pieve Santa Restituta 1998 Brunello ‘Sugarille’ $260.00 (1.5L)
Pieve Santa Restituta 1999 Brunello ‘Sugarille’ $125.00
Il Palazzone 1997 Brunello $66.83
Il Palazzone 1998 Brunello $72.60
Il Palazzone 1999 Brunello $84.95
Il Palazzone 2000 Brunello $69.98
Il Palazzone 1997 Brunello Riserva $89.10
Il Palazzone 1998 Brunello Riserva $80.16
Il Palazzone 1999 Brunello Riserva $106.92
Fuligni 1990 Brunello $210.00 (1.5L)*
Cerbaiona 1983 Brunello $207.00
Cerbaiona 1999 Brunello $94.70
Cerbaiona 1999 Brunello $199.95 (1.5L)
Cerbaiona 2000 Brunello $94.70*
Le Potazzine – Gorelli 1999 Brunello $70.13
Le Potazzine – Gorelli 1998 Brunello $60.51
*Future Arrivals

Click for more long-lived Brunello!

Where Ripeness Meets Structure

North of the Montalcino subzone the high elevation of the central region begins to taper and form the northern territory, which is made up of Canalicchio, Pianelli, and Montosoli and also includes the western area of Camigliano for this exercise. These subzones have a moderated share in the warm, dry Mediterranean climate and high altitude of their neighbors to the south, and the slight differences in temperature, humidity, and elevation breed wines of both ripeness and structure. The minimized exposure to cooling winds also contributes to the ripeness of wines from this area. This is epitomized by the wines of Livio Sassetti "Pertimali" (330m) and Altesino's Montosoli cru, which typically combine serious aromas and elegance with power and fruit. Further west, the wine of Silvio Nardi expresses elegance and fruit at a price that places it among IWM's best values. Continue the exploration with the map and the recommended wines below.

Altesino 2000 Brunello $46.50
Altesino 1999 Brunello ‘Montosoli’ $82.50
Altesino 1985 Brunello ‘Vigna Altesi’ $225.00
Altesino 1993 Brunello ‘Vigna Altesi’ $98.00
Altesino 1983 Brunello Riserva $160.00
Altesino 1990 Brunello Riserva $195.00*
Altesino 1999 Brunello Riserva $88.50
Tenuta Caparzo 1982 Brunello $198.00
Tenuta Caparzo 1985 Brunello $299.00 (1.5L)*
Tenuta Caparzo 1999 Brunello $39.50
Tenuta Caparzo 1988 Brunello ‘La Casa’ $189.00
Tenuta Caparzo 1990 Brunello ‘La Casa’ $195.00*
Tenuta Caparzo 1990 Brunello ‘La Casa’ $195.00*
Val di Suga 1988 Brunello ‘Spuntali’ $165.00
Val di Suga 1985 Brunello ‘Vigna Lago’ $195.00
Livio Sassetti “Pertimali” 1985 Brunello $265.00
Livio Sassetti “Pertimali” 1986 Brunello $145.00
Livio Sassetti “Pertimali” 1997 Brunello $129.00
Livio Sassetti “Pertimali” 1999 Brunello Riserva $98.95*
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 1997 Brunello $74.50
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2000 Brunello $44.50*
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 1998 Brunello Ris $49.67*
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 1999 Brunello Ris $52.00*
Donatella Cinelli Colombini '99 Brunello Ris $108.00 (1.5L)*
Canalicchio di Sopra 1985 Brunello $245.00
Silvio Nardi 1999 Brunello $49.50
Castiglion del Bosco 1999 Brunello ‘Campo del Drago’ $79.95
La Rasina 1999 Brunello $57.48
La Serena 1998 Brunello $94.00 (1.5L)
Marchesi de' Frescobaldi – Castelgiocondo 99 Brunello $61.60
Frescobaldi – Castelgiocondo 1988 Brunello Ris $149.00*
*Future Arrivals

Click to learn about Barolo that joins ripeness and structure!

Approachability on the Lower Slopes

The southern region, like the others, is contoured so that there is a dramatic shift from estate to estate with regard to altitude. But the warmer climate shows through in all the wines. The vineyards that fan out eastward from Tavernelle into Sant'Angelo are exposed to a more full-on Mediterranean climate than the rest of Montalcino, with sandier soils, less wind, and lower altitude, similar to the more southerly exposed Maremma zone. The effects can also be seen in other crops: look at the olives from this region at this time of year and they will be turning black, as opposed to olives found on Il Greppo that are still green. As with the olives, these attributes contribute to a denser, less acidic, fruitier side of Brunello. The vineyards that spread west into Castelnuovo dell'Abate deliver similar characteristics. However, some estates, like Talenti and Poggio di Sotto, have elevated vineyards with southern and western exposures that create potent wines with a spectacular combination of structure and ripeness.

Argiano 1997 Brunello $69.95
Argiano 1999 Brunello $42.96*
Argiano 1988 Brunello Riserva $195.00*
Argiano 1990 Brunello Riserva $215.00*
Castello Banfi 1997 Brunello Riserva ‘Poggio all’Oro’ $98.50
Castello Banfi 1988 Brunello Ris.‘Poggio all’Oro’ $175.00*
Castello Banfi 1990 Brunello Ris.‘Poggio all’Oro’ $195.00*
Casanova di Neri 1999 Brunello $56.50
Casanova di Neri 2000 Brunello Tenuta Nuova $59.95*
Casanova di Neri 2000 Brunello Tenuta Nuova $139.00 (1.5L)*
San Felice – Campogiovanni 1990 Brunello $198.00
San Felice – Campogiovanni 1997 Brunello $98.50
S Felice–Campogiovanni 90 Brunello Ris ‘Quercione’ $219.00*
Talenti 1985 Brunello $210.00
Talenti 1998 Brunello $58.44
Talenti 1988 Brunello Riserva $200.00
Talenti 1997 Brunello Riserva $85.00
Talenti 1998 Brunello Riserva ‘Paretaio’ $71.99
Poggio di Sotto 1998 Brunello $99.90
Poggio di Sotto 1999 Brunello $94.95
*Future Arrivals

Click for more approachable Brunello!

IWM in the Windy City!

Chicago Wine and Food Festival
Featuring Sergio Esposito and IWM
Friday - Sunday, October 22-23, 2005
Chicago’s three-day Wine & Food Festival has quickly become one of the largest of its kind in the country. This year Sergio Esposito and IWM will be involved in three events in our continued effort to bring quality Italian wine across the country.

Reserve Wine Tasting at Peninsula Hotel
Saturday, October 22, 2005, 1:00–3:00pm
This year’s reserve tasting will put some of the finest wine to come from the Boot up against the first growths of Bordeaux and cult Cabernets of California. See how Sergio champions Italy against these cellar staples.

Revival of Classical Italian Wines
Seminar with Sergio Esposito at Kendall College
Sunday, October 23, 2005, 2:00–2:45pm
Catch Sergio as he provides a lecture on the The Revival of Classical Italian Wine. As in Miami, he will showcase the likes of Montevertine, Mascarello, Quintarelli, Movia, and a special 1959 dessert wine.

Grand Tasting Event
Sunday, October 23, 2005, 11:30am-5:30pm
IWM will be pouring at the Grand Tasting with red and white wines that will range from the indigenous Ribolla Gialla varietal found in Friuli (in northern Italy) to the king of wines, Barolo, and a rare vintage treat.

Visit the Chicago Wine & Food Festival!