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IWM e-Letter: September 28, 2005
Solaia & Conterno-Fantino's Barolos |
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| In
this Issue:
•
A Note from Sergio
• Conterno-Fantino Sorì Ginestra
• Conterno-Fantino Vigna del Gris &
Parussi
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and
more:
•
Conterno-Fantino 1990 Monprà
• Solaia: Historic Flashback
• Catch IWM in Miami & Chicago!
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A
Note from Sergio
The team of
Claudio Conterno and Guido Fantino manage to
incorporate innovation and technology in much
the same way the neighboring Valentino
of Rocche dei Manzoni and Domenico Clerico
have without eliminating the personality of
the Nebbiolo grape. This is because they believe
in the strength of their land and its influence
on their grapes and therefore only the finishing
touches are applied in the cellar. Today, I
am featuring small quantities of their 2000
and 2001 Barolos from two plots on the historic
Ginestra hillside (Sorì Ginestra and
Vigna del Gris) and their softer and more approachable
Parussi from the Castiglione Falletto township
(commune). In addition to these limited production
Barolos, I am pleased to offer Monprà
from the historic 1990 vintage – an exclusive
offer from IWM and must-have experience for
the connoisseur!
From Piemonte,
I return to the Tignanello estate for a historic
bottling of Antinori’s signature-blend
Solaia.
The 2002 harvest was one of the most challenging
in recent years – in my opinion it was
a pleasant break that forced producers to make
less extracted, high alcohol, sappy wines –
probably not too popular in the international
market but well liked for drinkers that value
finesse, texture and silkiness over richness.
To maintain the excellence of Antinori’s
flagship wine, the Solaia is not produced in
poor vintages. That is a hint to anyone who
might dismiss this wine due to lack of hype
for the vintage. The 2002 constitutes a different
make-up from its standard three grape blend,
and this time excludes the Sangiovese and focuses
on the later ripening Cabernets. This decision
takes the wine back to its infancy, where its
debut in 1978, which I’ve recently had
and can attest that it’s still drinking
magnificently, was crafted exclusively from
Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, making
this a unique treat for the collector.
Read on below
for more on this vintage flashback, the rare
1990 Monprà, and the limited-production
Barolos from Conterno-Fantino (as well as other
offerings from the legendary
Ginestra vineyard). Should you have any questions
or wish to purchase these wines please contact
a Portfolio Manager at 212.473.2323 or via e-mail
at Perry@italianwinemerchant.com.
All the best,
Sergio Esposito
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Conterno-Fantino
Sorì Ginestra
It is rare among the individualistic
personalities that exist in the Langhe Hills
to find two young winemakers with such a strong
willingness to work together. In 1982, at the
tender age of 18, Claudio Conterno and family
partnered with Guido Fantino (ex- cellar master
at Prunotto and another young rising star) to
form the Conterno-Fantino estate. The nucleus
of their efforts was cru Ginestra, which grew
to include Vigna del Gris located on the same
hilltop in the commune
of Monforte d’Alba (known for austere,
structured Barolos). Early ambitions incorporated
the traditional approach set by their parents.
But in 1985 the duo decided to experiment with
a Nebbiolo/Barbera blend in what is now the
legendary Super Piemonte, Monprà, which
included the use of barrique. In 1994 they built
a state-of- the-art winery in the Bricco Bastia
area where they brought innovation and technology
to the Nebbiolo vines they had mastered. The
pair remains at the forefront of advancement
in quality winemaking, and they firmly believe
that vigilant viticultural practices are the
essence of great wine.
Conterno-Fantino
2001 ‘Sorì Ginestra’ –
$89.95
This house’s flagship Ginestra has received
critical acclaim from Veronelli, Gambero Rosso,
and Wine Spectator. While I don’t endorse
the rating system, I agree this is an exceptional
wine. Combined with an altitude of 300 meters,
the southern exposure on the historic vineyard
plot provides ideal sunlight through the early
morning and afternoon. The marly, calcareous
terrain here is conducive to remarkable structure
and cellar life. With the 2000 vintage experiencing
warm weather year round, harvest took place
early, on September 29, with a temperature-
controlled fermentation lasting just six days
to produce an approachable blockbuster, as opposed
to the more structured and austere 2001 vintage
which demands patience and cellaring.
Also available:
Conterno-Fantino
2000 Barolo ‘Sorì Ginestra’
– $69.92
Legendary
Ginestra Cru Six Pack
Like Cannubi
and Bussia, Ginestra is one of Barolo’s
historic vineyards that has captured the eyes
of Domenico
Clerico, Paolo
Conterno, Elio Grasso, and Seghesio. Located
in the commune of Monforte d’Alba, in
close proximity of the Serralunga border, the
wines of this area tend to be dark in color,
potent in structure and highly concentrated.
However, producer style does have a substantial
impact on the final product especially through
the innovative eyes of Clerico and Conterno-Fantino.
Here are three prized wines from the legendary
Ginestra vineyard that will provide a better
understanding of producer variance:
Ginestra Six-Pack
Paolo
Conterno 1999 Barolo ‘Ginestra’
– $88.00
Conterno-Fantino
2000 Barolo ‘Sorì Ginestra’
– $69.92
Clerico
2001 Barolo ‘Ciabot Mentin Ginestra’
– $64.95
6 pack (2 of each) – $445.74 Order
Here
Click
for more Barolo from IWM!
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Conterno-Fantino
Vigna del Gris & Parussi
Conterno-Fantino
2001 Barolo ‘Vigna del Gris’ $89.95
The ‘Vigna del Gris’ vineyard lies
just 100 meters from the more famous Sorì
Ginestra plot within the ‘Ginestra’
vineyard in Monforte. “The subsoil in
‘Vigna del Gris’ is slightly more
sandy, but is mostly calcareous like ‘Sorì
Ginestra’ and the exposure is to the southeast,”
explained Guido Fantino. The Barolo ‘Vigna
del Gris’ is dark ruby red-granite. Cigar
box, spice, red and blackberries on the nose,
it is full- bodied and concentrated with a nice
balance of acidity and tannin.
Conterno-Fantino
2001 Barolo ‘Parussi’ $69.95
Conterno-Fantino
2000 Barolo ‘Parussi’ $64.95
“‘Parussi’ is a vineyard that
we rent in Castiglione Falletto (wines produced
here typically land in the middle ground between
the austere, concentrated wines of Monforte
and the aromatic, elegant wines of the Barolo
township ),” says Guido. “The
soil [calcareous and arenaceous] is looser than
in Monforte and as a result, our Parussi is
a very elegant, refined Barolo, a little bit
lighter and approachable than the wines from
our Monforte vineyards.” The Parussi is
dark granite in color, intense on the nose with
persistent notes of spices, oak, and raspberry.
On the palate, elegant and flavorful with polished
tannins.
Conterno-Fantino
2001 Six Pack
The Barolo ‘Sorì Ginestra,’
‘Vigna del Gris,’ and ‘Parussi’
Six Pack offers Barolo lovers the opportunity
to taste two Monforte wines and a Castiglione
Falletto wine side-by-side. While both townships
lie to the east of the Barolo-Alba road and
share Helvetian-era subsoil (which makes for
wines that tend to come around more slowly than
those made to the west), this pairing perfectly
illustrates the marvelous differences between
Barolo crus.
Three 2001 Cru Barolos
of Conterno-Fantino Six-Pack
Conterno-Fantino
2001 Barolo ‘Parussi’ – $69.95
Conterno-Fantino
2001 Barolo ‘Sorì Ginestra’
– $89.95
Conterno-Fantino
2001 Barolo ‘Vigna del Gris’ –
$89.95
6 pack (2 of each) – $499.70
Click
to order Conterno-Fantino!
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Conterno-Fantino
1990 Monprà
Conterno-Fantino
1990 Monprà $69.00
Conterno-Fantino began making Monprà,
a Langhe Rosso blend, in 1985, their first experiment
with barrique-aged wines. The 1990 bottling
was among the last vintages where they did not
add any Cabernet to the blend. “In the
olden days, they used to add small amounts of
Barbera to the Nebbiolo to give it more color,”
says Guido Fantino. “Until 1993, we made
this wine with 50% Nebbiolo and 50% Barbera
grown in the township of Monforte. We gave it
a fantasy name, Monprà, which means ‘the
hill in the pasture’ in our dialect.”
The 1990 Monprà was classified as a Vino
da Tavola (the Langhe Rosso DOC did not go into
effect until 1994). Fermentation lasted 10 days
with repeated pumping over (the winery had not
yet installed rotary fermenters). The wines
were aged separately for 18 months in French
oak before being blended and bottled.
The wine is granite red in color,
medium-bodied with great depth. As it begins
to aerate in the glass, it presents notes of
currant, raspberry, and blackberry preserves,
sweet tobacco, licorice, black pepper and hints
of mint. After a few minutes, stronger notes
of mint, herbs, anise, cocoa, and yeast begin
to emerge. Powerful and elegant in the mouth,
the wine shows the richness of Nebbiolo’s
soft, supple tannins. The finish is persistent,
with notes of anise and licorice.
More
Super Piemontese
What is a Super
Piemontese blend? Often they are technically
classified as Langhe Rosso DOC, Monferrato Rosso
DOC, or Piemonte DOC. But this category is not
limited to these DOCs nor are they exclusive
to this category, as there are many great single-vineyard
monovarietal wines that fall into these classifications.
In fact, these three classifications act as
umbrella denominations for wines that do not
necessarily fit the rigid regulations of established
DOCGs like Barolo and Barbaresco. This category
also encompasses wines that break the rules
and are labeled simply Vino da Tavola or IGT.
Super Piemontese Blends are among the most approachable
wines from the region and in many cases, they
represent the best value in terms of quality
and price.
The predominant appellation
is Langhe Rosso, which includes all the winegrowing
townships in Cuneo. It refers to the Langhe
Hills – where Barolo
and Barbaresco are produced – and
it allows producers here to experiment with
different approaches to winemaking. Certain
producers, generally of the modern (or moderately
modern) school, believe that these additional
grapes can soften or add fruit to the more angular
Nebbiolo.
Monprà and Super
Piemonte Six-Pack
Conterno-Fantino
1990 Monprà – $69.00
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)
Gaja
2000 Sito Moresco – $59.95
(Nebbiolo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Cascina
Ebreo 1999 Segreto – $60.50
(Barbera, Nebbiolo)
Aldo
Conterno 2001 Il Favot – $58.00
(Nebbiolo - please note that this wine is classified
Langhe Nebbiolo)
Parusso
2000 ‘Bricco Rovella’ – $38.66
(Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Clerico
2001 ‘Arte’ – $39.00
(Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon)
6 pack (1 of each) – $325.11
Click
for more wine from Piemonte!
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Solaia:
Historic Flashback
Antinori
2002 Solaia $109.00
Solaia, the flagship wine of Italy’s best
known producer, is the golden child of Piero
Antinori and esteemed enologist Giacomo Tachis,
whose magic touch has graced the greatest of
Super Tuscans (Sassicaia,
Tignanello, Sammarco, and Argiano). The wine
was born in 1978 as a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon
and Cabernet Franc. In 1982 the winemaker began
to include Sangiovese. The grapes used to make
this wine are grown exclusively in the eponymous
vineyard (named for its excellent exposure,
from sole, Italian for “sun”), a
10-hectare plot on the Tignanello estate. Antinori
only makes the Solaia wine in good vintages
(for example, the 1980, 1981, 1983, 1984, and
1992 vintages were not released).
Historically, Solaia has been
made using 75% Cabernet Sauvignon (which gives
the wine its famed potential for aging), 20%
Sangiovese (which gives the wine its finesse),
and 5% Cabernet Franc (which imparts aroma).
The 2002 Solaia is a rare vintage where the
winemaker chose not to use Sangiovese (which
did not ripen as hoped). The result is an opportunity
to taste and cellar a Solaia that harkens back
to its earliest vintages when Antinori and its
enologist Tachis made the wine without Sangiovese.
This unique vintage is sure to be among the
most collectible in recent memory.
Also available:
Antinori
2001 Solaia $164.91
Antinori
2000 Solaia $789.00 (3.0L)
Antinori
1990 Solaia $389.00
Antinori
1988 Solaia $269.00
Click
for more Super Tuscans!
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Catch IWM in
Miami and Chicago!
Miami International
Wine Fair
Featuring Sergio Esposito
James L.
Knight International Center
Saturday, October 1, 2005
2:00-7:00pm
Florida’s largest
wine trade show will return for its fourth annual
edition to the James L. Knight Center in Downtown
Miami during the first weekend of October. This
comprehensive program of sit-down tastings,
wine dinners, and a Grand Tasting attracted
over 4,000 visitors last year and included nearly
400 wineries from 19 countries. IWM’s
own Sergio Esposito will present a Revival of
Classical Italian Wines tasting (Oct. 1, 5-6pm),
which will include wines from Bea, Mascarello,
and Quintarelli as well as the obscure sweet
wine from 1959, Solaria Jonica. Be sure to stop
by the IWM table at the Grand Tasting!
Chicago
Wine and Food Festival
Featuring Sergio Esposito and IWM
Friday - Sunday, October 22-23, 2005
Chicago’s third annual three day event
has quickly become one of the largest festivals
of its kind in the country. This year Sergio
Esposito and IWM will be involved in three events
in our effort to bring quality Italian wine
across the country.
Reserve Wine Tasting
Saturday, October 22, 2005, 1:00 –
3:00pm at Peninsula Hotel
This year’s reserve tasting will be presented
at the Penninsula Hotel in downtown Chicago,
and will put some of the finest wine to come
from the Boot up against the first growths of
Bordeaux and cult Cabernets of California. Catch
Sergio as he presents Italy against these cellar
staples.
Revival of Classical
Italian Wines Seminar with Sergio Esposito
Sunday, October 23, 2005 at Kendall College
Catch Sergio Esposito as he provides a lecture
on the The Revival of Classical Italian Wine.
Like Miami, he will showcase the likes of Montevertine,
Mascarello, Quintarelli, Movia and a special
1959 dessert wine.
Grand Tasting Event
Sunday, October 23, 2005, 11:30a.m. - 5:30pm
On that same day, IWM will be pouring at the
Grand Tasting with red and white wines that
will range from the indigenous Ribolla Gialla
grape varietal found in the Friuli region of
northern Italy, to the king of wines, Barolo
and a rare vintage treat.
Visit
the Miami Wine Fair website and click on "seminars"
for more on Sergio's Revival of Classical Italian
Wines tasting!
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