and more:
• Brunello di Montalcino
• Super Tuscans & Other
• IWM in Miami

A Note from Sergio

To grasp the complex nature of a mature wine is the highest reward granted to a committed wine drinker. It is incomparable to any other. Mature wines inspired men like Hemingway and Franklin, not two-year-old Merlots. But they are not for everyone; nor should they be. To understand them one must patiently develop familiarity and thereby a reference point, which justifiably is too time-consuming and expensive for most. In my experience, only a few enthusiasts can and do appreciate them. Wine writers, who so skillfully carve the future of our new wine culture, mostly ignore older wines making only slight references when it’s convenient. After all, they’re not just the latest fad. But for lovers of historic wine culture experiencing them is the reason we do what we do!

Adding to consumer’s frustration is the high probability that the bottle you receive is not sound. The vintage business is mostly a crap shoot, with most involved selling knowingly bad wines with the “caveat emptor” adage making it acceptable. If disappointed a buyer’s only recourse is to send the rest to auction, thus starting the cycle all over again. This is never acceptable. Buyers likewise are attracted to the thrill of discovery, hoping to find mind-boggling fifty-year-old wines for $60.00; almost always they end up paying too much. You’ll hear them say, “I want to drink great old wines but I don’t want to pay a lot for them.” I always reply, “I’d like to own a Ferrari and not pay a lot.” Consider that properly storing a bottle at a cost of 42 cents per month for 30 years is about $150.00 Should great old wines cost any less than that?

On the list I offer today there are no surprises, no knowingly bad wines and, if you’re an old wine drinker, no disappointments. Each wine is priced according to its quality with special consideration to wines of high demand and reputation.

Why do mature Italian wines taste better in Italy? Aside from the influence of ambiance and less disturbance due to travel, the answer is clear: while the wines of Italy lay in the shadows, collectors in the U.S. pampered their big name Bordeaux wines, tucking them away in climate-controlled cellars where they would sleep peacefully until reaching maturity. The gems springing from Italian soil, however, were often mistreated and heat-damaged (even by most importers). Only a handful of connoisseurs treated them with the respect they deserved. For this reason all of the older wines I offer are direct from cellars in Europe where culture (which in this case is really common sense) has dictated for many years that those wines be placed in cool conditions no different than for cured meat or cheese.

With awareness of Italy’s great wines spreading daily – not to mention the cost of proper cellaring – you can be sure that prices will continue to appreciate. For new collectors the best advice I can give is to explore older wines whenever possible, become familiar, and lay down newer vintages for future enjoyment and a great return on your investment. This is the only real way to have a mind-boggling wine for $60.00

Please note that many of the wines featured today are available in very limited quantities. To learn more about the vintage wines below or to discover recent releases for cellaring, call an IWM Portfolio Manager at 212.473.2323.

My best,
Sergio

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Barolo

The masculine, full-bodied Barolo should display elegance, depth, and a wealth of tastes and aromas that only Nebbiolo can deliver. The prized vineyards of Barolo sit in the Langhe Hills of Piemonte, just southwest of the town of Alba. This thin-skinned grape, much like the noble Pinot Noir, is difficult to grow due to climatic conditions. In fact, Nebbiolo is named for the autumn fog that descends over the hills during the harvest. However, with the cooperation of Mother Nature and the artisanship of its winemakers, it produces a uniquely perfumed and powerful red.

1990 Bartolo Mascarello $690.00 (1.5L)
1990 Prunotto $219.00
1990 Scavino ‘Bric del Fiasc’ $299.00
1990 Giuseppe Mascarello ‘Bricco’ $220.00
'90 A Conterno ‘Bussia Soprana’ $399.00 (1.5L)
'90 A Conterno ‘Bussia Soprana’ $995.00 (3.0L)
1990 Scavino ‘Cannubi’ $279.00
1990 Sandrone ‘Cannubi Boschis’ $425.00
1990 Aldo Conterno ‘Cicala’ $299.00
1990 Aldo Conterno ‘Cicala’ $689.00 (1.5L)
1990 Aldo Conterno ‘Colonnello’ $247.00
1990 Aldo Conterno ‘Granbussia’ $359.00
1990 Monchiero Riserva ‘Le Rocche’ $98.00
1990 Domenico Clerico ‘Pajana’ $210.00
1990 Vietti ‘Rocche’ $195.00
1990 Gaja ‘Sperss’ $295.00
1990 Gaja ‘Sperss’ $600.00 (1.5L)
1989 Bartolo Mascarello $690.00 (1.5L)
1989 Rocche dei Manzoni Ris ‘Big’ $198.00
1989 Scavino ‘Bric del Fiasc’ $489.00 (1.5L)
1989 Scavino ‘Bric del Fiasc’ $279.00
1989 Ceretto ‘Bricco Rocche Brunate’ $210.00
'89 A Conterno ‘Bussia Soprana’ $895.00 (3.0L)
'89 A Conterno ‘Bussia Soprana’ $425.00 (1.5L)
1989 Aldo Conterno ‘Bussia Soprana’ $199.00
1989 Sandrone ‘Cannubi Boschis’ $380.00
1989 Marengo Marenda ‘Cerequio’ $119.00
1989 Aldo Conterno ‘Cicala’ $247.00
1989 Aldo Conterno ‘Colonnello’ $247.00
1989 Aldo Conterno ‘Granbussia’ $425.00
1989 Seghesio ‘La Villa’ $189.00
1989 Pio Cesare ‘Ornato’ $219.00
1989 Vietti Riserva ‘Villero’ $220.00
1988 Bartolo Mascarello $546.77 (1.5L)
1988 Aldo Conterno ‘Bussia Soprana’ $179.00
1988 Sandrone ‘Cannubi Boschis’ $270.00
1988 G. Conterno ‘Cascina Francia’ $189.00
1988 Aldo Conterno ‘Colonnello’ $195.00
1987 Bruno Giacosa ‘Villero’ $169.00
1986 Bartolo Mascarello $690.00 (1.5L)
1986 Prunotto ‘Cannubi’ $199.00
1985 Seghesio $219.00
1985 Scavino ‘Bric del Fiasc’ $253.90
1985 Ceretto ‘Bricco Rocche’ $219.00
1985 Prunotto ‘Bussia di Monfortino’ $219.00
1985 Prunotto ‘Cannubi Monforte’ $224.00
1985 Aldo Conterno ‘Cicala’ $550.00 (1.5L)
1985 Bruno Giacosa ‘Collina Rionda’ $240.00
1985 Giacomo Conterno ‘Monfortino’ $395.00
1985 Monchiero ‘Montanello’ $89.00
1985 Scavino Riserva $395.00 (1.5L)
1985 Aldo Conterno ‘Vigna Romirasco’ $395.00
1983 Bartolo Mascarello $375.00 (1.5L)
1982 Aldo Conterno ‘Granbussia’ $859.00 (1.5L)
1982 Monchiero ‘Montanello’ $89.00
1979 Rocche dei Manzoni Ris $175.00
1978 Vietti ‘Rocche’ $265.00
1978 Ceretto ‘Bricco Rocche Brunate’ $189.00
1967 Prunotto Riserva ‘Bussia’ $120.00
1964 Borgogno $104.95
1964 Contratto $149.00
1964 Fontanafredda $225.00
1964 Prunotto ‘Bussia’ $189.00
1952 G. Conterno Ris ‘Monfortino’ $460.00

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Barbaresco

It is the third most collected wine of Italy and is commonly referred to as Barolo’s younger sibling: where Barolo is king, Barbaresco is queen. The tiny Barbaresco DOCG sits just ten miles northeast of Barolo and once again the Nebbiolo is capable of displaying her nobility in the Langhe hills. The small DOCG is broken up into three subzones around the villages of Barbaresco, Neive, and Treiso, and as in Barolo the practice of single-vineyard bottling is the calling card of these collectible gems. Barbaresco tends to be slightly finer, less tannic, and more elegant and approachable than Barolo for a variety of reasons, including a cooler climate, a lower alcohol level requirement, a shorter ripening period, and less stringent aging requirements.

1990 Gaja $310.00
1990 Pio Cesare $210.00
'90 Produttori del Barbaresco Ris ‘Asili’ $179.00
1990 Ceretto ‘Faset Bricco Asili’ $229.00
1990 Bruno Giacosa ‘Gallina’ $240.00
1990 Marchesi di Gresy ‘Martinenga’ $198.00
1990 Prunotto ‘Montestefano’ $219.00
'90 Prod. del Barbaresco ‘Montestefano’ $179.00
1990 Cigliuti ‘Serraboela’ $169.00
1990 Gaja ‘Sorì San Lorenzo’ $459.00
1990 Gaja ‘Sorì Tildin’ $460.00
1989 Vietti ‘Masseria’ $195.00
'89 Prod. del Barbaresco ‘Montestefano’ $179.00
1989 Pasquero ‘Sorì Paitin’ $185.00
1989 Gaja ‘Sorì San Lorenzo’ $1,095.00 (1.5L)
1989 Gaja ‘Sorì Tildin’ $1,095.00 (1.5L)
1989 Gaja ‘Costa Russi’ $389.98
1988 Gaja $495.00 (1.5L)
1988 Giuseppe Mascarello ‘Marcarini’ $185.00
1988 Vietti ‘Masseria’ $175.00
1988 Dante Rivetti ‘Nevis’ $145.54
1988 Gaja ‘Sorì Tildin’ $339.50
1987 Bruno Giacosa ‘Gallina’ $169.00
1986 Prunotto ‘Montestefano’ $159.00
1985 Gaja $296.00
1985 Oddero $169.00
1985 Ceretto ‘Faset’ $149.50
1985 Vietti ‘Masseria’ $260.00
1985 Gaja ‘Sorì San Lorenzo’ $398.00
1983 Bruno Giacosa ‘Gallina’ $179.00
1983 Bruno Giacosa ‘Santo Stefano’ $198.00
1982 Gaja $296.00
1982 Pasquero ‘Sorì Paitin’ $225.00
1982 Gaja ‘Costa Russi’ $831.00 (1.5L)
1961 Gaja $475.00
1955 Marchesi di Barolo $425.00

Click for more Barbaresco!

Brunello di Montalcino

The most recognizable of all the collectible red wines of Italy is Brunello. Located south of both Chianti and Siena, the Sangiovese grape thrives in this unique microclimate. It is in this dryer, hotter, and more Mediterranean climate of southern Toscana that the limestone and sand soil produce a more muscular grape capable of producing a rich, dark, concentrated red (heavier and more tannic than Chianti and thus known as the "little dark one"). Tongue-curling tannins and firm acidity allow these wines to age, catching the eyes of Popes, Presidents, Kings, Queens... and wine collectors.

1990 San Felice ‘Campogiovanni’ $198.00
1990 La Torre $145.00
1990 Conti Costanti $210.00
1990 Tenuta Caparzo ‘La Casa’ $195.00
1990 Banfi Riserva ‘Poggio all’Oro’ $195.00
1990 Altesino Riserva $195.00
1990 San Felice ‘Vigna Quercione’ $198.00
1988 Ciacci Piccolomini $169.00
1988 Conti Costanti $170.00
1988 Poggio Antico $165.00
1988 Tenuta Caparzo ‘La Casa’ $189.00
1988 Altesino ‘Montosoli’ $145.00
1988 Talenti Riserva $200.00
1988 Val di Suga ‘Spuntali’ $165.00
1988 Altesino ‘Vigna Altesi’ $160.00
1986 Livio Sassetti “Pertimali” $145.00
1985 Conti Costanti $200.00
1985 Canalicchio di Sopra $245.00
1985 Livio Sassetti “Pertimali” $265.00
1985 Talenti $210.00
1985 Altesino ‘Vigna Altesi’ $225.00
1985 Val di Suga ‘Vigna Lago’ $195.00
1984 Case Basse di G. Soldera $289.00
1984 Case Basse di G. Soldera $598.00 (1.5L)
1983 Cerbaiona $207.00
1983 Altesino Riserva $160.00
1983 Case Basse di G. Soldera $299.00
1983 Case Basse di G. Soldera $625.00 (1.5L)
1982 Tenuta Caparzo $198.00
1982 Conti Costanti Riserva $245.00
1982 Case Basse di G. Soldera $845.00 (1.5L)
1981 Case Basse di G. Soldera $289.00
1981 Case Basse di G. Soldera $598.00 (1.5L)
1980 Case Basse di G. Soldera $289.00
1980 Case Basse di G. Soldera $598.00 (1.5L)
1974 Barbi Riserva $145.00

Click for more Brunello di Montalcino!

Super Tuscans & Other

Beyond the borders of Montalcino and far from the Langhe, winemakers throughout Italy create wines of every style, from traditional elixirs and indigenous varietals to bold “international” types. The most recognizable are probably Bolgheri’s Super Tuscans, wines like Sassicaia, Solaia, and Sammarco, which seamlessly marry immigrant grapes with the local terroir. The great dried grape wine of the Veneto, Amarone della Valpolicella, also finds its way into top cellars worldwide. Others do not enjoy the same fame, such as top Chianti bottlings, which are sometimes wrongly grouped with their insipid neighbors that abuse the name. Finally, some are so unique that they defy categorization, like Antonio Ferrari’s magical Solaria Jonica.

Super Tuscans:
1990 Antinori Tignanello $210.00
1990 Antinori Tignanello $394.00 (1.5L)
1990 Felsina Fontalloro $150.00
'90 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia $649.00 (1.5L)
1990 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia $325.00
1990 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia $449.00
1990 Antinori Solaia $389.00
1990 Castello dei Rampolla Sammarco $189.00
1990 Banfi SummuS $210.00
1990 Isole e Olena Cepparello $179.00
1990 Terrabianca Campaccio $115.00
1990 Vitticio Monile $110.00
1990 Altesino Palazzo Altesi $110.00
1990 S Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo $259.00
1990 Altesino Alte d’Altesi $110.00
1989 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia $295.00
1988 Antinori Tignanello $189.00
1988 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia $245.00
1988 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia $365.00
1988 Antinori Solaia $269.00
1988 Avignonesi Grifi $180.00
1988 Altesino Alte d’Altesi $105.00
1988 Antinori Tignanello $749.95 (3.0L)
'87 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia $322.00 (1.5L)
'86 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia $390.00 (1.5L)
1985 Antinori Tignanello $239.00
1985 Antinori Tignanello $449.00 (1.5L)
'85 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia $899.00 (1.5L)
'85 Tenuta S Guido Sassicaia $3,346.00 (1.5L)
1985 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia $1,295.00
1985 Villa Cafaggio San Martino $155.00
1982 Antinori Tignanello $195.00
1982 Castello dei Rampolla Sammarco $229.00

Chianti:
1990 Monsanto Classico Ris ‘Il Poggio’ $180.00
1990 Palazzino Class. ‘Grosso Sanese’ $175.00
1988 Monsanto Class. Ris ‘Il Poggio’ $140.00
1988 Villa Cafaggio Solatio Basilica $115.00
1985 Monsanto Class. Ris ‘Il Poggio’ $195.00
1985 Castell’in Villa Classico Riserva $195.00
1985 Castello di Ama ‘Bellavista’ $159.00
1982 Monsanto Class. Ris ‘Il Poggio’ $195.00
1971 Castell’in Villa Riserva $89.25

Other:
1990 Quintarelli Amarone Riserva $468.67
1990 Quintarelli Bandito $199.95 (375ml)
1990 Quintarelli Bandito $378.12
1990 Quintarelli Recioto Riserva $435.02
1990 Maculan Fratta Cabernet $70.00
1959 Ferrari Solaria Jonica $139.95 (500ml)

Click for more Super Tuscans!

IWM in Miami

Miami International Wine Fair
Featuring Sergio Esposito
James L. Knight International Center
Saturday, October 1, 2005
2:00-7:00pm

Florida’s largest wine trade show will return for its fourth annual edition to the James L. Knight Center in Downtown Miami during the first weekend of October. This comprehensive program of sit-down tastings, wine dinners, and a Grand Tasting attracted over 4,000 visitors last year and included nearly 400 wineries from 19 countries. IWM’s own Sergio Esposito will present a Revival of Classical Italian Wines tasting (Oct. 1, 5-6pm), which will include wines from Bea, Mascarello, and Quintarelli as well as the obscure sweet wine from 1959, Solaria Jonica. Be sure to stop by the IWM table at the Grand Tasting!

Visit the Miami Wine Fair website and click on "seminars" for more on Sergio's Revival of Classical Italian Wines tasting!