and more:
• Friuli's Azienda Valle
• Le Marche's Moroder Ankon
• IWM in Miami

A Note from Sergio

I have spent more than a thousand days in Italian vineyards from the Alps of Alto Adige to the volcanoes of Sicilia. With wines coming from 2,000 varietals, no other country can justifiably challenge her as champion of diversity; and the range shown by 27,000 producers brings out a rich spectrum of characteristics in the fruit and terroir. Journalists often ask me if I believe Italian wine suffers from not having a single identity, and my answer is always the same: Italy's diversity is her identity and her greatest asset. This is the common element found in all subjects which Italy masters.

In the past weeks, I have focused on each region's masters, such as Piemonte’s Bartolo Mascarello, Veneto’s Quintarelli, Friuli’s Gravner, and Abruzzo's Eduardo Valentini. However, with regard to approachability in price and drinkability, there are a host of gems in our portfolio that are waiting to be discovered. This week I bring some of these to you, but the wines listed today are only a hint of what our inventory holds. Our e-letter, newsletter, website, and wine clubs are all ways of familiarizing yourself with our selection, but none is better than dealing personally with one of our Portfolio Managers.

For more information on today's selected highlights from Barolo, Barbaresco, Valpolicella, Colli Orientali, and Le Marche, please read on below or call an IWM Portfolio Manager at 212.473.2323.

My best,
Sergio

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Virna Barolo 'Cannubi Boschis'

Under the radar with IWM begins in the Langhe Hills with two cru Barolos from Lodovico Borgogno’s estate Borgognot, where every bottle bears the name of his daughter, Virna. With a family history in the Barolo vineyards that dates back to 1720, the estate has reached its pinnacle with Virna as acting enologist. Here tradition and technology come together in the winery under the watchful eye of Virna and her husband Gianni Abrigo, both winemakers. Together they also run Azienda Agricola Orlando Abrigo in the village of Treiso, where they produce cru Barbaresco (which we have included below). Virna di Lodovico Borgogno wines are produced from grapes grown on eight hectares located in historic Barolo crus: Cannubi Boschis, Preda, Sarmassa, I Merli, San Giovanni, and Costa delle Rose.

Virna 1999 Barolo 'Cannubi Boschis' $53.72
This "other" producer of Barolo 'Cannubi Boschis,' not to be confused with Pira & Figli's Cannubi (owned by the Boschis family), resides in the shadow of the great Luciano Sandrone. The heralded Cannubi Boschis vineyard is synonymous with the cru wine of Sandrone (first labeled as such in 1985). However, Cannubi Boschis (or Monghisolfo as it was originally labeled after its former owner) has also attracted attention due to its relationship to the historical Cannubi vineyard. Technically, it is not a sub-plot of the legendary vineyard as some theories suggest, but rather a neighbor of Cannubi "proper." Monghisolfo borders the Vezza vineyard, which forms a barrier to the neighboring Cannubi. In time, Monghisolfo became known as Boschis after the family bearing the latter name took control of the territory - a tradition in the Langhe Hills. In the early seventies, Renato Ratti in his research and referencing reported the name Cannubi Boschis to highlight the similarities to Cannubi "proper" while setting it apart. The unique soil of these two sites - made up of the whitish marl known as tov with sporadic patches of dark, nutrient-rich clay - is also found in the neighboring vineyards of Muscatel, San Lorenzo, and Valleta. These traditional names that identified other sections of the area attached themselves to the alluring vineyard the same way that the surrounding vineyards of Montrachet did. Regardless of the history, both Cannubi and Cannubi Boschis demand attention, which Sandrone provides at the collector level and Virna delivers at an approachable price point.

Virna 2000 Barolo 'Preda Sarmassa' $53.72
Lodovico and Virna Borgogno created a cuvee consisting of selected grapes from the Barolo crus of Sarmassa and Preda. The historic Sarmassa vineyard was brought to fame by the likes of Marchesi di Barolo, Scarzello, and Brezza, and has earned a reputation that competes just under Cannubi. Here, the unique tov soil restricts the vegetation of the vines and keeps yields in check, while the ideal exposure (la fioca a’sciana - where the snow melts first) makes it attractive real estate to ambitious winemakers. Grapes from the Preda vineyard, which is home to the late Luigi Pira’s cascina, are blended with Sarmassa to provide a more masculine Barolo. Luigi and other winemakers believe the grapes to be slightly rawer and less elegant than those of vineyards like Sarmassa, which deliver elegance. Together as a blend the two styles offer more ageability than is typical of the wines of Sarmassa.

Above the Radar with Cannubi and Cannubi Boschis
Scavino 2001 Barolo 'Cannubi' $79.90
Rinaldi 2000 Barolo 'Cannubi' $69.95
Sandrone 2000 Barolo 'Cannubi Boschis' $129.95
Cannubi, also known as Cannubio, is derived from the Italian word for union, which best describes the rare hybrid of Barolo’s two distinct soil types - Tortonian and Helvetian - marrying their respective characteristics of perfume and elegance with structure and concentration. (See Barolo Cru Map). The prestigious Cannubi vineyard lies where three communes of the appellation converge: Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, and La Morra. The Cannubi vineyard extends north and eastward, overlooking the commune of Barolo. The reputation of the vineyard has become legendary, as the label of the oldest remaining bottle of Piedmontese wine bears the name Cannubi 1752.

Cannubi & Cannubi Boschis Sampler:
Virna 2000 Barolo 'Preda Sarmassa'
Virna 1999 Barolo 'Cannubi Boschis'
Scavino 2001 Barolo 'Cannubi'
Rinaldi 2000 Barolo 'Cannubi'
Sandrone 2000 Barolo 'Cannubi Boschis'
Orlando Abrigo 2000 Barbaresco 'Vigna Montersino'
IWM Six-Pack Sampler (1 of each): $442.39*
*Free delivery in Manhattan

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Cantina Valpantena Amarone

The co-operative association of Cantina Valpantena takes its name from the valley where it lies. It is a place of great beauty that inspired Renaissance poets and where vines were cultivated even before the rise of the Roman Empire. The name is derived from the Greek for “valley of the gods,” but the locals have their own translation: valle di tutti i vini, or “valley of all wines.” The Cantina is in the northeast corner of this charmed land, which is a central subzone of Valpolicella. The 1990s saw a serious self-evaluation in which the cooperative members established new quality standards for both viticulture and vinification; modern innovations were carefully integrated into time-honored methods in order to bring out the best in the land and vines. Today the cooperative welcomes about 270 growers with a total of 600 hectares planted to vines, and together they continually strive to produce the greatest wines possible.

Cantina Valpantena 2001 Amarone $34.68
A traditional blend of Corvina (70%) and Rondinella (25%) with a drop of Cabernet Sauvignon (5%). The magical flavors of Amarone emerge from its traditional production techniques. Carefully selected grapes are spread in single layers to dry on straw or plastic mats for 60 to 100 days. During this time the grapes lose much of their initial water weight, dramatically concentrating their sugar content. The raisin-like grapes are then crushed and fully fermented. Ruby colored with a slight haze of garnet, while tobacco and spice lurk in the depths of a rich, voluptuous, generous palate.

Cantina Valpantena 2002 Valpolicella $20.40
70% Corvina and 30% Rondinella. Ruby red. The aromas speak of liqueur, and tart fruit oozes onto the palate. Good body and balance grace this heady wine.

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Friuli's Azienda Valle

The wines of Friuli were rarely recognized by 60s enophiles, but they captured the interest of famed journalist Igor Mann, who delighted in his accidental discovery: a fortuitous flight on Alitalia included a glass of Valle Cabernet, which soon made its way into Mann’s acclaimed book Lo stivale allo spiedo. Luigi Valle did not follow in the footsteps of his forefathers; his interest in wine was personal, and it inspired him to create his own interpretations of the land and its fruit. His first bottlings had few local companions of quality, but the Valle estate has since played a role in northeast Italy's entrance onto the world stage, always at the forefront among the region’s quality producers. While working to craft great renditions of the region’s traditional wines, "Gigi" also fell in love with the easy harmony of many "international" varietals (brought to Friuli by Napoleon's army) with the local terroir. The Valle production now embraces both ancient grapes and newcomers.

Valle 2003 Pinot Grigio 'Araldica' $31.11
Pure Pinot Grigio from the Rosazzo vineyard in the Colli Orientali. Very pale yellow. Delicate aromas of wildflowers and spice introduce a dry, smooth palate with bitter undertones.

Valle 2003 Riesling 'Araldica' $31.11
Also from the Rosazzo vineyard, Valle’s Riesling is yellow with a golden sheen and green reflections. The lush floral bouquet gives a hint of sweet citrus. A svelte wine with a fresh, flavorful, lively palate.

Valle 2002 Sauvignon 'Araldica' $31.11
From the same Colli Orientali vineyard as Valle’s Pinot Grigio and Riesling. A gentle yellow color with a touch of green. Scents of tropical fruit atop balmy herbs and sweet vegetables. Well balanced, with light floral tones and a lasting finish.

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Le Marche's Moroder Ankon

The wines of the Moroder estate, along with other stars like Le Terrazze, represent the potential of Le Marche. The Moroder family has owned this estate since the early 19th century, but only under current owners Alessandro and his wife, Serenella, has it ranked among Italy’s true quality producers. The vineyards and winery are found within the Parco del Conero, a national park designed to preserve the native flora and fauna of this area which carries strict regulations forbidding the use of pesticides and other unnatural chemicals. Rosso Conero "Dorico" is the flagship wine of the estate, but the debut of Ankon makes this blend one to watch.

Moroder 2000 Ankon $44.55
Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot make up this debut from Moroder. Bottled in July 2003 after 24 months aging in barrique and 15 months fining in bottle. There is both elegance and power here, with dark fruit beautifully supported by understated oak and sweet tannins.

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IWM in Miami

Miami International Wine Fair
Featuring Sergio Esposito
James L. Knight International Center
Saturday, October 1, 2005
2:00-7:00pm

Florida’s largest wine trade show will return for its fourth annual edition to the James L. Knight Center in Downtown Miami during the first weekend of October. This comprehensive program of sit-down tastings, wine dinners, and a Grand Tasting attracted over 4,000 visitors last year and included nearly 400 wineries from 19 countries. IWM’s own Sergio Esposito will present a Revival of Classical Italian Wines tasting (Oct. 1, 5-6pm), which will include wines from Bea, Mascarello, and Quintarelli as well as the obscure sweet wine from 1959, Solaria Jonica. Be sure to stop by the IWM table at the Grand Tasting!

Visit the Miami Wine Fair website and click on "seminars" for more on Sergio's Revival of Classical Italian Wines tasting!