and more:
• Barbera and Dolcetto
• Gattinara and Gavi
• Piemonte Sparkling and Dessert Wines

A Note from Sergio

The 2001 vintage marks the culmination of the legendary Piemonte streak that began in 1996, with the small crop selection of 1995 providing some hidden gems as well. Strings of outstanding vintages in the Langhe are quite unusual, with the other noteworthy stretches coming just three times in the last century: 1988-1990, 1979-1980, and 1905-1908. I emphasize the word 'outstanding' because I believe that every vintage from 1996 to 2001 is uniquely brilliant. However, it is important to understand the significance of this phenomenon and the range in styles that Mother Nature provided even before the grapes arrived in the fermentation tanks. First and foremost, 2001 - like 1996 - is a landmark vintage in this string, more so than 2000 or 1997. I endorsed this vintage when the grapes were still ripening on the vine and then from private barrel tastings, and through the ageing process I became enamored with the sheer complexity, class, and life of the wines. Intimate conversations with Bartolo and Maria Teresa Mascarello and many other Barolo producers whose opinions I admire have confirmed that in this belief I am not alone. A few producers did make greater 2000s than 2001s, but the majority did not. Secondly, Piemonte is host to a great deal of “wine beyond Barolo,” which also benefited from the rare climatic cycle: there are vintage discoveries and values hidden in Langhe Rosso, Barbaresco, Gattinara, Barbera, Dolcetto, Brachetto, and others from the Langhe Hills.

When buying these wines you must understand exactly what you are dealing with – as the media has stressed, the 1997 and 2000 vintages are excellent and showcase an approachable side to Nebbiolo, which is a nice way to introduce wine enthusiasts to the often reticent, when young, wines of Nebbiolo. The ripeness of these vintages is a calling card to purchase wines from the northern regions of Gattinara and Fara, where Nebbiolo often struggles for sun. However, it is unjust to mark these as the quintessential vintages just because they are "easier for Americans to understand," as so many journalists and critics have expressed to me. Great Barolo, as in Mohammad Ali 'Great,' is 1996 and 2001 because to be great you must have longevity! These staples for the collector’s cellar include more structure, acidity, and ageability than the ripe, round, approachable wines of 1997 and 2000. When the media bestows high ratings on super-ripe vintages they run the risk of misrepresenting the wines and creating an invalid standard for appraisal and future reference. In the case of Barolo approachability is just such an erroneous barometer, and the mystique of this noble wine is being jeopardized. For a more approachable version of Barolo my recommendation is to look at declassified Nebbiolo or Langhe Rosso, like Bricco Manzoni and the signature wines from Gaja, which now incorporate a touch of Barbera to cut the astringency and add more fruit to the Nebbiolo.

As the talk of exceptional Barolo escalates, the other wines of Piemonte fall under a shadow and demand to be heard. Among them are Barbaresco, Gattinara, Langhe Nebbiolo, and the enjoyable sweet wines made from Brachetto and Moscato. Read on below to learn more about these wines and what they have to offer, or to learn more about Barolo and its history visit Barolo di Barolo.

My best,
Sergio

IWM Barolo 2001

Barbaresco

Outside Barolo, Nebbiolo takes the name of the various northern Piemonte villages around which it resides, but none is as eminent as Barbaresco. It is the third most collected wine of Italy and is commonly referred to as Barolo’s younger sibling: where Barolo is king, Barbaresco is queen. The name Barbaresco is synonymous with the names Gaja and Giacosa - but the "Queen of the Wines" does not begin and end with these signature labels. The tiny Barbaresco DOCG sits just ten miles northeast of Barolo and once again the Nebbiolo is capable of displaying her nobility in the Langhe hills. The small DOCG is broken up into three subzones around the villages of Barbaresco, Neive, and Treiso, and as in Barolo the practice of single-vineyard bottling is the calling card of these collectible gems. For the most part Barbaresco lived in relative obscurity until the 1960's, when Giovanni Gaja (Angelo’s father) and Bruno Giacosa showed what it could become. However, it wasn’t until Angelo introduced single-vineyard efforts and canvassed the globe that Barbaresco took its rightful place in cellars around the globe alongside the grand crus of Bordeaux, the cult wines of California, and big brother Barolo.

Barbaresco tends to be slightly finer, less tannic, and more elegant and approachable than Barolo for a variety of reasons, including a cooler climate, a lower alcohol level requirement (12.5% compared with Barolo's 13%), a shorter ripening period, and less stringent ageing requirements - Barbaresco must age at least two years before release with a minimum of one year in barrel, while Barolo must be aged for three years with at least two in barrel. The soil of Barbaresco is fundamentally a calcareous marl of the Tortonian epoch (as opposed to the Helvetian soil found in the powerful Barolo communes of Monforte and Serralunga) and tends to yield softer, more aromatic wines similar to those of the Barolo communes La Morra and Barolo. This is particularly true for the wines from the Barbaresco subzone, which is home to Ceretto's Bricco Asili and Marchesi di Gresy. The wines from Neive can be a little more tannic and powerful, as is exemplified by the wines of Giacosa. However, producer style can mask the characteristics of the area so stereotyping is difficult. For instance, the Barbarescos of Gaja reveal rich fruit and more concentration than the classic style of Giacosa or the well-recognized cooperative Produttori di Barbaresco. Perhaps the biggest (even bordering on hedonistic) Barbaresco comes from Neive’s La Spinetta and their second label, Cocito. There's also an opportunity to taste the wines of legendary winemaker Beppe Colla of Prunotto before the winery was sold to Antinori. However, as for all collectible wines it is best to speak with a Portfolio Manager to find the style that best fits your palate.

New Release Barbaresco
Gaja 2001 Barbaresco $169.50 (arrives late fall)
*Gaja 2000 Barbaresco $167.99
*Giacosa 2000 Barbaresco $69.00
Giacosa 2001 Barbaresco Santo Stefano $99.00
*Giacosa 2000 Barbaresco Santo Stefano $99.00
Giacosa 1999 Barbaresco Santo Stefano $116.48
*La Spinetta 2000 Barbaresco Starderi $105.95
*Cocito 2000 Barbaresco Baluchin $68.00
*Orlando Abrigo 2000 Barbaresco Montersino $56.10
Ada Nada 1998 Barbaresco Valeirano $33.00

IWM 2000 Barbaresco Six Pack: $566.04*
*Free delivery in Manhattan
(1 of each 2000 Barbaresco starred above)

Vintage Barbaresco
Oddero 1985 Barbaresco $169.00
Gaja 1990 Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo $459.00 (future arrival)
Gaja 1988 Barbaresco Sori Tildin $339.50 (future arrival)
Giacosa 1996 Barbaresco Rabaja $189.00
Pio Cesare 1990 Barbaresco $210.00
Prunotto 1990 Barbaresco Montestefano $219.00
Prunotto 1986 Barbaresco Montestefano $159.00
Ceretto-Bricco Asili 1985 Barbaresco Faset $149.50
Ceretto-Bricco Asili 1990 Barbaresco Faset $229.00
Marchesi di Gresy 1990 Barbaresco Martinenga $198.00
Marchesi di Gresy 1996 Barbaresco Martinenga $54.36
Marchesi di Gresy 1996 Barbaresco Camp Gros Martinenga $73.40
Dante Rivetti 1988 Barbaresco Nevis $145.54

Click for extended offer of IWM Barbaresco!

Super Piemontese Blends

Conterno Fantino’s Monpra, Clerico’s Arte, Rocche dei Manzoni’s Bricco Manzoni, Aldo Conterno’s Quartetto, Gaja’s Darmagi, and even Gaja’s Sori Tildin (since 1996): these wines are all classified Langhe Rosso DOC. Moreover, they are all are part of the group known as Super Piemonte blends.

What is a Super Piemonte blend? Often they are technically classified as Langhe Rosso DOC, Monferrato Rosso DOC, or Piemonte DOC. However, this category is not limited to these DOCs nor are they exclusive to this category, as there are many great single-vineyard monovarietal wines that fall into these classifications. In fact, these three classifications act as umbrella denominations for wines that do not necessarily fit the rigid regulations of established DOCGs like Barolo and Barbaresco, instead representing the innovations of winemakers who can’t seem to fit in. A further extension of this category encompasses wines that completely break the rules and are simply labeled Vino da Tavola or IGT – prime examples of quality from this region include Cascina Ebreo's Torbido. In short, Super Blends from Piemonte are the region’s answer to Toscana’s Super Tuscan movement. Many are the most approachable wines and the best values of Piemonte, whereas many Super Tuscans have become untouchable.

Perhaps the most important of these umbrella classifications is Langhe Rosso, which includes all the winegrowing municipalities of the Cuneo province. It refers to the Langhe Hills - home to Barolo and Barbaresco, located along the Tanaro River - and allows producers within this province to experiment outside the limitations set by the local consorzi. Langhe Rosso isn’t necessarily about Nebbiolo – in fact, it welcomes the union of Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Nero, and Merlot. Certain producers, generally of the modern (or moderately modern) school, believe that these additional grapes can soften or add fruit to the more angular Nebbiolo, as is the case with Valentino’s pioneering “Bricco Manzoni.” Another view is that blending can offer more personality - especially in off vintages for Nebbiolo - as Gaja shows in his legendary trio: Sori Tildin, Costa Russi, and Sori San Lorenzo, all of which include a small percentage of Barbera along with the Nebbiolo from Barbaresco.

Twelve Super Piemonte Blends
Gaja 2000 Sito Moresco $59.95
(Nebbiolo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Gaja 2001 Darmagi $189.95 (future arrival)
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc)
Cascina Ebreo 1999 Segreto $60.50
(Barbera, Nebbiolo)
Paitin 2000 ‘Paitin’ $34.00
(Cabernet Sauvignon)
Aldo Conterno 2001 Il Favot $58.00
(Nebbiolo - please note that this wine is classified Langhe Nebbiolo)
Aldo Conterno 2001 Quartetto $39.00
(Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot)
Parusso 2000 ‘Bricco Rovella’ $38.66
(Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Rocche dei Manzoni 1998 ‘Bricco Manzoni’ $30.94
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)
Rocche dei Manzoni 1998 ‘Pinonero’ $46.80
(Pinot Nero)
Rocche dei Manzoni 1998 ‘Quatr Nas’ $53.50
(Nebbiolo, Merlot, Pinot Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Clerico 2001 ‘Arte’ $39.00
(Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Voerzio 2000 ‘Vignaserra’ $44.80
(Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon)

IWM Super Piemonte Case (1 of each): $654.69*
*Free delivery in Manhattan

Gaja Langhe Rosso
Gaja 2000 Langhe Rosso Sori San Lorenzo $269.00
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)
Gaja 2001 Langhe Rosso Sori San Lorenzo $279.95 (future arrival)
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)
Gaja 1997 Langhe Rosso Sori Tildin $395.00
Gaja 1998 Langhe Rosso Sori Tildin $219.00
Gaja 2001 Langhe Rosso Sori Tildin $279.95 (future arrival)
Gaja 2000 Langhe Rosso Sori Tildin $269.00
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)
Gaja 1998 Langhe Rosso Costa Russi $219.00
Gaja 2001 Langhe Rosso Costa Russi $279.95 (future arrival)
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)
Gaja 1998 Langhe Rosso Conteisa $129.95
Gaja 2000 Langhe Rosso Conteisa $167.99
Gaja 2001 Langhe Rosso Conteisa $169.50 (future arrival)
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)
Gaja 1998 Langhe Rosso Sperss $159.50
Gaja 2001 Langhe Rosso Sperss $189.95 (future arrival)
(Nebbiolo, Barbera)

Click for extended offer on IWM Piemonte Blends!

Barbera and Dolcetto

Barbera
The ultimate Italian summer red is also known to many as the perfect pizza wine. With its jarring acidity, high alcohol, low tannin, and lush fruit, Barbera is an ideal food wine that will stand up to anything you throw on the barbeque. No other wine has the versatility to cut through tomato sauce or complement a steak just as nicely. It should be noted that the recent string of warm vintages resulted in riper grapes that are bigger, fruitier, and less acidic than in most years.

Barbera is the most planted grape in Piemonte and thrives in this region more widely known for Nebbiolo. The wine is often made by the majestic Barolo and Barbaresco producers as a secondary, younger drinking choice. There are five DOC regions in Piemonte that produce the most noteworthy Barberas. The two most important are Barbera d’Alba and Barbera d’Asti, both of which require 100% Barbera, while Monferrato, Colli Toronesi, and Rubino di Cantavenna may produce blended wines. Times have changed, and the easy drinking wine is now in vogue. In the early 80’s Giacomo Bologna’s Braida estate changed everything for Barbera when he released his Bricco dell’Uccellone. He selected grapes from the best vineyard and aged them in new French barriques, and the results started a revolution when others saw that oak aging can soften the sharp acidity and add a dose of needed tannic structure. To gain an appreciation of the range this grape offers, try some of the many collectible and highly sought-after wines from Barbera producers like La Spinetta, Hilberg, Braida, Coppo, and the joint effort Hastae 'Quorum'. All are excellent drinking wines for the summer grill.

Scavino 2002 Barbera d’Alba $23.98
Clerico 2003 Barbera d’Alba Tre Vigne $29.50 (future arrival)
Bovio 2000 Barbera d’Alba Parussi $31.65
Villa Sparina 1999 Barbera del Monferrato ‘Rosso Rivalta’ $58.65
Braida di Giacomo Bologna '98 Barbera d’Asti Bigotta $69.00
Coppo 2000 Barbera d’Asti Pomorosso $119.00 (1.5L)
Voerzio 2001 Barbera d’Alba ‘Pozzo dell’Annunziata’ $295.00 (1.5L)

Dolcetto
Piemonte’s “little sweet one” has often been misrepresented as the “Beaujolais of Italy” for its simplicity, low acidity, early ripening ability (it ripens weeks before Nebbiolo), and easy-going character of intense grapey aromas and fleshly fruit flavors. Unlike Beaujolais, Dolcetto tends to be relatively concentrated, and recently renewed interest in the variety is giving the wine a new reputation as fat, dark and powerful. This indigenous grape claims seven of its very own varietal DOCs which sprawl intermittently across the south and southeast parts of the region; the vine’s high sensitivity to soil types generates subtle differences that distinguish the wines of each zone. Of the best known denominations, Dolcetto d’Alba is probably the foremost and is generally considered the most prototypical, with the signature bitter almond notes. Dolcetto d’Asti typically displays a brighter style, and Dolcetto di Dogliani is known for some heavyweights. Like Barbera, Dolcetto is made by many of Barolo and Barbaresco’s great producers as a more approachable, younger-drinking bottling for everyday enjoyment.

Bovio 2001 Dolcetto d’Alba ‘Dabbene’ $16.72
Scavino 2001 Dolcetto d’Alba $17.00
Scavino 2002 Dolcetto d’Alba $17.07
Abbona 2000 Dolcetto di Dogliani Papà Celso $18.13
Clerico 2004 Langhe Dolcetto Visadì $18.95 (future arrival)
Bartolo Mascarello 2003 Dolcetto d’Alba $23.95
Pira 1998 Dolcetto di Dogliani ‘Bricco Botti’ $24.75

Click for IWM's featured producers!

Gattinara and Gavi

Gattinara
Piemonte’s Nebbiolo is known for its long-ageing and collectible wines from the Barolo and Barbaresco regions of the Langhe. But going farther north, in the hills extending from Novara and Vercelli westward toward the Alps, the noble Nebbiolo grape (also known here as Spanna) shows her more delicate personality. It is on the mountainside vineyards of the Gattinara (DOCG), Carema (DOC), and Fara (DOC) zones that Nebbiolo, like Burgundy's Pinot Noir, struggles for ripeness but creates elegant wines marked with distinctive acidity and minimal tannin. In the exceptional vintages of 1997 and 2000, however, the warm weather provided a must-have wine with enough power to compete with the Barolos and Barbarescos in the south.

Historical data from the archives of the Archdiocese of Vercelli reveal that viticulture has existed since the reign of Charlemagne on the hills where Dessilani now stands. This confirms recent archaeological discoveries that suggested wine has been produced in the area since Roman times. Experience the skill of winemaking, developed and perfected through the centuries, in a best-of-the-vineyard Gattinara Riserva from the legendary 1997 vintage. The estate has been making great Nebbiolo wines since 1892. Although more aromatic than Barolo, the wine is similar in color, with deep garnet red and orange reflections. Intense fruit and spice character hits the palate, yet the full body yields a harmonious and pleasant lingering finish.

Dessilani 1997 Gattinara Riserva $57.20

Gavi
It is said in Piemonte that the golden-haired Princess Gavia was married against the wishes of her father, the Frankish king Clodomiro. She and her bridegroom fled across Lombardia to the land ruled by the Goths, but it was not long before a local innkeeper revealed their secret to soldiers sent to find her. In the end Gavia’s love won the king’s approval, so the couple settled here and ruled the territory as vassals to Queen Amalasunta of the Goths. The area is now named for the princess, and the yellow-gold wine produced here also takes her name to remind the people of her beautiful tresses. Less romantic historians explain that the Val Lemme was inhabited almost 2000 years ago by the Cavaturini tribe, whose name derives from the caves that were their homes. The land was therefore called Cavium, which quickly evolved to Gavium and eventually to Gavi. Yet another group points to the early Ligurian Ga Va or ‘land of hollows,’ again referring to the area’s many caverns.

Gavi is made from the native white Cortese, a vigorous vine that thrives in southeastern Piemonte’s Monferrato Hills and produces fresh wines of high acidity with subtle flavors of apple, citrus, and honeysuckle. This wine earned DOC status in 1974 and then became Italy’s second DOCG white wine in 1998; it is now among the region’s top wines and overshadows the neighboring white Arneis and Erbaluce. A sparkling version of Gavi is also popular, as Cortese lends itself perfectly to this style. There are few wineries producing Gavi today, and IWM only carries the very best: Villa Sparina’s Gavi di Gavi consistently earns a place on our shelves with its peachy aroma, rich palate, and signature almond finish. Their Monterotondo is also a regular, showing prominent oak that combines with the Cortese to create a unique flavor, and their newest release is the Montej Bianco, which is a blend of Chardonnay, Muller-Thurgau, and Sauvignon Blanc.

Joining Piemonte’s own elite whites is the French- born Chardonnay, which gained popularity through the efforts of Aldo Conterno and Angelo Gaja. These wines are very highly respected internationally, and Gaja’s Gaia & Rey leads the pack....

Villa Sparina 2004 Gavi di Gavi $18.92
Villa Sparina 2000 Gavi di Gavi ‘Monterotondo’ $70.00 (1.5L)
Villa Sparina 1999 Gavi di Gavi ‘Monterotondo’ $70.00 (1.5L)
Villa Sparina 2004 Montej Bianco $17.82
(Chardonnay, Muller-Thurgau, Sauvignon Blanc)
Gaja 2000 Langhe Bianco Gaia & Rey $129.95
Gaja 2001 Langhe Bianco Gaia & Rey $129.95
Gaja 2000 Langhe Bianco Rossj-Bass $27.95 (375 ml)
Gaja 2003 Langhe Bianco Rossj-Bass $48.50 (future arrival)
(Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc)

Click here for Italy's Greatest Whites!

Piemonte Sparkling and Dessert Wines

Perhaps the most common ambassador of this category is Asti Spumante - the world’s second favorite sparkling wine after Champagne, this semi- sweet sparkler is made from the Moscato grape using the tank method. However, Piemonte is home to numerous exceptional aperitifs and dessert wines, most of which can be found at exceptional values. Many of the wines are labeled as spumante, meaning fully sparkling, or frizzante, which means lightly bubbly. Like Champagne, these wines can be made in a dry, off dry, or sweet style. The wines can even be taken to the other end of the spectrum with grapes that undergo the passito method described below.

In addition to Spumante, the Asti DOCG covers Moscato d’Asti, which is similar except that it has 1-2 degrees less alcohol and lower CO2 pressure (i.e. fewer bubbles, therefore making it frizzante). Due to the process by which it is made, it is generally a vibrant off-dry or sweet wine that overflows with fresh fruit and usually carries a semi-creamy texture. This is ideal as a refreshing aperitif or even served alongside desserts of cookies or biscotti. Be sure also to experience the great Valentino's take on vintage champagne with his 1995 Brut Zero effort, which is actually made by the méthode champenoise and is produced in a crisp, dry style, unlike many of the wines offered in this section.

Massolino 2002 Moscato d’Asti $11.50
Massolino 2003 Moscato d’Asti $11.50
San Giuliano 2002 Moscato d’Asti $17.00
San Giuliano 2003 Moscato d’Asti $16.50
Rocche dei Manzoni 1995 Spumante Brut Zero $36.84
(Chardonnay)

Brachetto: Frizzante or Passito
Where Moscato d’ Asti is the ultimate semi-secco white bubbly, Brachetto d’Acqui is the great semi-secco red bubbly of Piemonte. Instead of vibrant tropical fruit, the signature here is the flavors and colors of strawberry with light bubbles. Made in the Monferrato hilltop area of Acqui Terre-Strevi from the Brachetto grape, the wine is an ideal companion to fruit and pastries in the hot New York summer. In this example from Elio Perrone, the wine is actually am innovative blend of the Moscato (46%) and Brachetto (54%) grapes, creating a more sweet styled rosé that explodes with flavors of red berries, peaches, apricot, and white flowers. Serve it chilled with a fruit salad.

Perrone 2004 Bigaro Brachetto $18.70

Brachetto can also be made in the passito style, where the grapes are allowed to dry via hanging or on lying mats (as for Vin Santo, Recioto, and Amarone). Passito wines are generally made in the sweet style and have a texture polar to that of sparkling wine. At the artisanal estate of Forteto della Luja Giancarlo Scaglione produces the cult favorite Brachetto Passito. This obscure dessert wine is another gem from the maker of the IWM star Le Grive and is a must for the sweet wine connoisseur.

Forteto della Luja 2001 Brachetto Passito $38.75 (375 ml)
Forteto della Luja 2002 Brachetto Passito $38.75 (375 ml)

Click here for a special sweet wine from Piemonte/Puglia!