and more:
• Movia's Blends
• Movia Summer Sampler
• Seminars & Wine Festivals

A Note from Sergio

They don't sound Italian - Stanislao Radikon, Josko Gravner, Damijan Podversic, and Ales Kristancic - but these are the winemaking names that are building the international reputation of the Collio, Fruili's delimited zone that straddles the Italian-Slovenian border and is responsible for the great quality whites of Italy. Theirs are not the clean, crisp wines that revolutionized the region when avant-garde producers like Schiopetto and Felluga introduced stainless steel; these wines showcase individual personality and represent the independent spirit of some of Italy's greatest viticulturalists and traditionalists.

Here, in the long shadows of war, famine, natural disaster, and political divide, lives the man I believe to be the best winemaker in the Northeast region, second only to the Veneto's master Giuseppe Quintarelli. Ales Kristancic of Movia knows as much about making wine as anyone I have ever met. He knows his craft as well as Lee Iacocca knows how to sell cars or Tiger Woods knows how to play golf. For more than two centuries the 20+ hectares of Kristancic vines have occupied the rotating political space of Brda (the Slovenian name for Collio), the inconsistency of which has not interrupted their bio-dynamic approach to winemaking. Words create the political boundary, and a simple little dirt road now divides the two countries. The Movia estate is on the Slovenian side, and although some of the Movia vineyards are on the Italian side he cannot legally call his estate Italian because his mailing address remains as it has for hundreds of years. If he put a mailbox in his Italian vineyards he would be allowed to call his wines Italian. As Ales says, "We who live in Brda - the Collio - have in the past been considered Italian, Hungarian, German, Yugoslavian, and so on, and through all of these political changes the only thing that has always remained the same is the people who are of this land."

These are some of the greatest wines not just of Italy but of the world, and it is not just the whites that are begging to be recognized. On my last visit with Eric Asimov, chief wine writer for The New York Times, we had the opportunity to taste Movia's 1963 Merlot, which had the richness of Pomerol and the ageability of Piemonte. On other visits Ales and I have tasted Ribollas dating back to the fifties and sixties - the only other Italian whites I can compare them to are the wines of Fiorano. These timeless treasures are miracles of viticultral science - firsthand evidence that the whites of the Collio, as well as the reds, have the ability to age gracefully. I cannot emphasize enough that these are some of the best values in the wine world.

Read on below to learn more on the Movia estate and the esoteric wines of Ales Kristancic. Other ways to experience the great wines of Italy are listed under Seminars & Wine Festivals below.

All the best,
Sergio Esposito

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Kristancic Heritage

In Brda, Movia has been producing wine for more than three centuries. Purchased by the Kristancic family in 1820, the estate was recently passed from Mirko to his young son Ales. This French- and Italian-trained winemaker takes a historical but radical approach to his wines. He ages the whites in 600-liter Slovenian oak casks or traditional Slovenian barriques (which are actually smaller than French barriques), leaving them on the lees without stirring for more than two years. His reds deserve a treatment no less novel. Depending on the variety, Ales leaves his reds to age for three to seven years, once again in small Slovenian oak casks. This is an excellent example of how oak can be a tool, not a weapon. He never racks the wines; they are fined and filtered by the atmospheric pressure brought by the arrival of the new moon. This is a purely natural approach that leaves the wines brilliantly clear.

Students and winemakers around the globe watch his winemaking techniques, and many visit him to observe and learn. His approach cannot simply be classified as traditional or even purely natural: over two centuries of winemaking at the Movia farm, the trials and tribulations of the Kristancic family have been passed from generation to generation as collective wisdom. Here you will not hear the abused terms of 'green harvest,' '100% new French barrique,' or 'low yields.' What you will find is a thorough understanding of vine and root management performed by hand and developed over time. Ales' grapes are picked late from old vines that range from 30 to 80 years of age. This is the most mature and productive period of the vines, when they absorb nutrients from deep within the soil and create the full, rich but never sweet wines Ales desires.

Ales learned these techniques while growing up in the vineyards and winery. As the new moon rose he dutifully helped his father transfer wines from barrel to barrel. Slowly, the family business grew on him, and today he wholeheartedly implements the rigorous biodynamic principles handed down to him with a revived passion.

Click for last week's e-Letter on Sangiovese!

Movia's Varietal Wines

Movia 2002 Sauvignon $25.24
The omnipresent Sauvignon Blanc reinvents itself in the hands of a master. This "international" varietal is known worldwide for its grassy gooseberry aromas when alone and as the dominant component in many white Bordeaux blends. In Ales' case the Sauvignon vines were brought here by Napoleon's army and have cloned themselves into an entirely different expression of the varietal. His Sauvignon offers high acidity that can balance richness or can be harnessed and developed into a more complex disposition with oak aging. With its vivacious character, it can master many distinct roles and stands up well to various types of foods.

This wine is a must try from Movia! Made from a particular clone of Sauvignon Blanc found only in one plot of the Movia vineyards. Subtle and not as "green" as typical Sauvignon. Compelling notes of tangerine and mango liven the elegant palate. This wine lolls on its lees for 20 months in new oak, where it gains a voluptuous roundness and a long, supple finish.

Movia 2003 Ribolla $25.24
Ribolla Gialla enjoys a long history as one of Friuli's oldest indigenous vines. Back in the 12th century it was the drink of choice in the Republic of Venice under the name Rabiola del Collio; through the ages it also supplied Torbolino, a sweet wine traditionally served on the Day of the Dead. Robust and late-ripening, Ribolla Gialla enjoys the well-ventilated hills of the Collio zone. Today, the worldwide popularity of Pinot Grigio and local fanfare for Tocai have overshadowed this aromatic varietal, but in the hands of many of Friuli's most iconoclastic producers the wine recaptures its own well-deserved glory. Just over the border in Slovenia the grape is known as Rebula, and it is also grown as Robola in Greece. Ribolla wines are generally dry and buttery with good acidity in their youth. However, many examples age well and shed their juvenile vivacity in favor of a mature richness, as I have observed in tastings with Ales that included Movia Ribollas from the 50's, 60's, 70's, and 80's.

A pretty copper color at the core. Rich in fresh apples and damson with a chalky streak right down the middle. Vibrant acidity with a velvet touch backed by buttery oak and spicy fruit.

Movia 2003 Tokai Gredic $25.24
Tocai Friulano is Friuli's ambassador to the world, an offbeat indigenous varietal that has earned a place in diverse wine circles alongside its more ubiquitous cousins. The ancestry of the grape is widely debated, with some claiming a relation to Furmint, which furnishes Hungary's Tokaji. ("Friulano" was added to the name Tocai to avoid confusion with this famous dessert wine; eventually the wine may simply be labeled "Friulano" based on arrangements set by the EU.) Others point to the alias Sauvignon Vert or Sauvignonasse to back their assertion that Tocai is related to France's Sauvignon Blanc. Also grown in various regions outside of Friuli, this ancient varietal is at its best in the Collio, where it is traditionally served with antipasti of smoked prosciutto and speck. This masculine white grape offers a range of characteristics brought out by the varying microclimates and producer styles, which range from crisp to a creamy texture and from smoky to peppery.

Floral notes, hazelnuts, and pears on the nose. Firm but balanced acidity animates tropical fruit with fresh baked bread, new oak, and some spice. A smooth, fresh wine that captures Tocai's signature mineral finish and Ales' dynamic touch.

Movia 2002 Pinot Grigio $25.24
Like Chianti and Soave before it, Italian Pinot Grigio has become so ubiquitous in American wine stores that it is easy for serious enophiles to pass it over. This genetic variation of Pinot Noir has great merit when treated kindly, though, and Friuli's top producers consistently show us why this varietal deserves attention and respect. The fruit actually ranges from an eponymous grey (thus the name 'grigio' in Italian and 'gris' in French) to a delicate, pinky mauve, with berries of varied shades often found within a single bunch. The resulting wine is similarly varied not only in color - due to different source fruit and vinification methods - but also in style, ranging from light and zippy to rich and mouth-filling, the latter being demonstrated Movia's style. Classic varietal characteristics include delicate aromas of flowers and lemon. Movia's Pinot Grigio is grown entirely in Friuli, but the vinification facilities are a step across the border in Slovenia.

Golden reflections. Fresh, round tropical fruit and gentle citrus on the nose. Rich in minerals, white fruits, and acacia honey with a creaminess reminiscent of crème brûlée.

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Movia's Blends

As opposed the monovarietal emphasis featured above, Ales also produces two standout cuvees or blends that are again created with a focus towards building big, rich, full-bodied wines. Each is handcrafted from estate-grown grapes grown in Slovenia and Italy as vines her divided, with more of the reds grown on the Slovenian side. The Veliko Bianco (or Belo) is an IWM favorite that is ready to drink today and will deliver at any event. In addition, Ales has aged his Veliko Rosso with the objective of making it accessible upon release - with close to ten years of age on the wine, it is an exceptional value.

Movia 2001 Veliko Bianco $28.05
(Ribolla, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio)
Each vintage of Movia's 'Big' or 'Great' white - Veliko Belo in Slovene - is a blend of varying proportions of Ribolla, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and Pinot Grigio and spends three years in oak. Receding gold shines in the glass. Flowery hints on the nose are followed by a robust palate of persimmon, apricot and baked apple touched by traces of cinnamon and vanilla. Elegant and age-worthy, this is a superb value.

Movia 1996 Veliko Rosso $36.47
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero)
Veliko Rosso (Veliko Rdece in Slovene) is Movia's 'Great Red,' a distinguished blend of Cabernet, Merlot, and Pinot Nero. Rich, dark fruit emerges, accented by fresh evergreen and a dash of spice. Big and rich without excess bulk. Gracefully integrated tannins and a long finish. This wine will surprise and delight those who have never experienced Movia!

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Movia Summer Sampler

IWM is offering six great examples from Movia in both a six-pack (1 of each) and a case sampler (2 of each) for your summer entertaining. Experience the pure white varietals of the native Ribolla Gialla, Tocai, and Pinot Grigio as well as a unique take on the noble Sauvignon Blanc. Ribolla, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and Pinot Grigio come together to create an exotic blend in Veliko Bianco, and taste what happens when Cabernet, Merlot, and Pinot Nero commingle in the rolling hills of the Collio. Each wine provides for a unique palate adventure. This is a great way to experience the wines of one of the world's great winemakers at an approachable price.

Movia 2002 Pinot Grigio $25.24 (750ml)
Movia 2003 Ribolla $25.24 (750ml)
Movia 2002 Sauvignon $25.24 (750ml)
Movia 2001 Veliko Bianco $28.05 (750ml)
Movia 2003 Tokai Gredic $25.24 (750ml)
Movia 1996 Veliko Rosso $36.47 (750ml)

IWM Movia Six-Pack (6) $165.48*
IWM Movia Case Sampler (12) $304.47*
*Free delivery to NYC residents

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Seminars & Wine Festivals

Experience IWM and the wines of Italy through the Vintage Babbo Wine Dinner Series and the upcoming Tanglewood Wine Festival. Please join us for three events as we continue to uncork Italy's best.

Tanglewood Wine and Food Classic
Thursday-Saturday, July 21-23
Here's the chance for a summer wine weekend escape in the Berkshires. Less than 150 miles outside of New York City, situated at the Hawthorne Tent with its gorgeous panorama of the verdant Berkshire hills, the Tanglewood Wine and Food Classic offers guests the chance to sample wines and food from all over the world and taste a selection from Italian Wine Merchants. Hourly cooking demonstrations will be held on the Viking culinary performance set -an opportunity to learn the tricks of the trade from nationally acclaimed chefs. Regional artisans will present a variety of food- and wine-inspired art. Select restaurants will serve up signature dishes to accompany the best efforts of participating wineries.

IWM is involved with select wine festivals around the country, including the Central Coast Classic in Pismo Beach, the Nantucket Wine Festival, and L'ete du Vin in Nashville, among others. This weekend is an exceptional opportunity for people in the Tri-State area to enjoy the outdoors with wine, food, and music.

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Barolo & Barbaresco 1990
Monday, July 25 ($495 per person)
There's a reason we've been obsessing over this vintage: the wines are drinking spectacularly now, and they still have lots of life ahead! After hearing raves for our recent tasting of 1990 Brunello di Montalcino, we scoured the cellar for a stellar lineup from Alba. Come taste these elegant, powerful reds with a menu of Piedmontese specialties to bring out their best.

Italy's "Cult Wines"
Monday, August 15 ($495 per person)
The French have their garagistes, the Californians their "cult cab" producers, and of course Italy has its share of boutique wineries (and wines) as well. Often with little more than a fanciful name to identify them ("Redigaffi," "Montevetrano," etc.), these limited-production gems have captured the hearts of critics and consumers alike - despite the difficulties inherent in finding them. We hunted down some of the rarer Italian cult wines for a tasting that will show them to be wines for the long haul, not just flashes in the pan.

How to Reserve Vintage Babbo Seats: Contact Caroline Marshall at 917.715.3599 and specify which tasting you would like to attend.

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