and more:
• Super Tuscans, Sangiovese Style
• New Vintage Babbo Seminars
• Italy's Cult Wine Sampler

A Note from Sergio

The name Sangiovese is derived from the phrase sanguis Jovis, meaning 'blood of Jove.' To understand Italy's most likeable grape is to understand that its development took thousands of years beginning with its Etruscan infancy through the Middle Ages and into modern times. Over the centuries, it has spawned many clones, taking the names such as Sangioveto (Chianti), Sangiovese Grosso (Montalcino), Prugnolo (Montepulciano), and Morellino (Maremma), in addition to assuming the names of several towns where it excels. The grape is also prevalent throughout Italy in wines such as Le Marche's Rosso Piceno (where it is usually blended with Montepulciano), Umbria's Torgiano (usually blended with Canaiolo), and Emilia-Romagna's Sangiovese di Romagna, but it truly shines in Toscana. These diverse forms can cause confusion in the complex landscape of Italian wines.

Enophiles worldwide pay homage to Brunello, one of Italy's most deserving wines; but to find value and approachability in Sangiovese it is important to understand this grape's existence outside of Brunello. Chianti, Rosso di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Carmignano, Morellino di Scansano, and Super Tuscans - these are the many faces of the noble Sangiovese! These Tuscan treasures range from simple everyday wines which often are celebrated for their seamless marriage with food to collectible wines known for their exceptional value.

Today's email provides a platform that begins to explain the flexibility in style that Sangiovese demonstrates, beginning with shining stars from the ubiquitous Chianti zone, where a Classico designation is a helpful hint at quality. In Morellino di Scansano and Rosso di Montalcino the grape shows its greatest value wines. The IGT classification names like Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Sammarco, and Guado al Tasso are emblematic of the Super Tuscan label; however, the term has been exploited since being coined and has become synonymous with blends or Bordeaux style wines. My objective is to feature crus and cuvees that incorporate the noble Sangiovese and are distinctly Tuscan - whether they are true "rebel" wines or simply labeled IGT, they represent quality use of this varietal and showcase the range it is capable of achieving.

Please read on below to learn more about Sangiovese and some of the great values on a price-to-quality scale that are available from this grape's many forms. Should you wish to purchase these wines contact our Portfolio Managers at 212.473.2323.

All the best,
Sergio Esposito

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Chianti & Chianti Classico

The classic wine of Italy, let alone Toscana, is undoubtedly Chianti. This wine was referenced as early as the twelfth century, and the first recognizable description of it can be found in a sixteenth-century book on the libations of Toscana. The Renaissance also saw the first legal safeguard, with serious fines inflicted on impostors touting the esteemed name of Chianti. More recently, its composition has shifted from Canaiolo to Sangiovese, and the vineyards here have passed from the landed gentry, who saw winemaking as an ancillary use of their estates, to enophiles dedicated to finding the greatest expression of the land.

The Chiantis of yore actually derive from the area now known as Chianti Classico, which profited from its central location in the Grand Duchy of Toscana; today, Chianti cannot simply be defined as one wine or one style. Within the modern Chianti appellation there are eight distinct sub-regions that can be classified into two groupings: Chianti Classico DOCG and Chianti DOCG. The latter is made up of Colli Aretini, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Senesi, Colline Pisane, Montalbano, Montespertoli, and Rufina. The last of these was known historically as Pomino (a name that lives on as an independent DOC located entirely within Chianti Rufina) and was prized as one of Toscana's great wine zones; Montalbano is now shedding its reputation for light, frivolous wines in favor of more substantial undertakings; and the vast Colli Senesi zone, which abuts Montalcino, San Gimignano, and Montepulciano, is renowned for its full-bodied wines. Chianti Classico, which is nestled between Siena and Florence, is home to Greve, Radda, Gaiole, and Castellina as well as parts of several other zones. This historic area supplies well under 40% of all Chianti produced but is relatively reliable within this dauntingly inconsistent sea of wine.

The formula of Chianti is always dominated by Sangiovese but can contain the white grapes Trebbiano and/or Malvasia to create a lighter, more approachable wine, or it may include a small percentage of Canaiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Combine the individuality of each sub-region's terroir with the varying grape ingredients and mutations, producer style, vintage variation, normale/annata (aged a minimum of one year) or riserva (aged a minimum of two years), and cru or cuvee, and there is an enormous array that makes generalizations difficult.

To help you understand and experience the flexibility of Sangiovese, I have selected a handful of producers from various sub-regions (see below) to provide a qualitative tour through the land of Chianti. In this hilly countryside, much of the rich heritage is preserved in perfect harmony with the surrounding vineyards. Many of the historic estates continue to function today just as they have for hundreds of years: seven centuries before Opus One became Napa's trophy, the Frescobaldi Castle was built and the family helped to establish the backbone of Toscana's viticulture. Medieval hamlets like that of Castell'in Villa date back to the 1200's and remain among Chianti's top quality estates. In addition, you can sample the rare aged Chiantis of Antinori, the classic reliability of Querciabella, the crus of Fontodi, the riservas of La Sala, the extraordinary single- vineyard Vigna del Sorbo from Fontodi, and the ripeness and weight of the 1997, 1999, 2000, 2003 vintages in comparison to the more structured 1998 and 2001.

Chianti Classico:
Castell'in Villa 1998 Chianti Classico $30.83
Felsina 2001 Chianti Classico $21.66
Querciabella 2001 Chianti Classico $24.77
Casaloste 1997 Chianti Classico $27.20
Il Molino di Grace 2000 Chianti Classico $24.75
La Sala 2002 Chianti Classico $22.00
Antinori 1990 Chianti Classico $49.00 - limited quantity

Chianti Classico Riserva:
Castell'in Villa 1993 Chianti Classico Riserva $32.58
Castell'in Villa 1997 Chianti Classico Riserva $57.89
Castell'in Villa 1971 Chianti Classico Riserva $89.25
Collelungo 1998 Chianti Classico Riserva $45.00
Felsina 2000 Chianti Classico Riserva $25.24
Querciabella 1999 Chianti Classico Riserva $39.80
Fattoria Vignavecchia 1999 Chianti Classico Riserva $30.53

Single Vineyard Chianti:
Castell'in Villa 1998 Chianti Cl. Ris. Poggio delle Rose $70.80
Fontodi 2000 Chianti Vigna del Sorbo $49.00
Frescobaldi 2001 Montesodi $47.85 (Rufina) - limited quantity

Chianti:
Frescobaldi 2000 Chianti Riserva 'Nipozzano' $22.00 (Rufina)
Cesani 2002 Ireos Chianti $18.70 (Colli Senesi)
Fattoria di Fiano 2002 Chianti Ris. $24.68 (Colli Fiorentini)
Fattoria di Fiano 1999 Chianti Ris. $28.49 (Colli Fiorentini)
Fattoria di Fiano 2001 Chianti Ris. $28.49 (Colli Fiorentini)
Palazzo Bandino 2001 Chianti $15.84 (Colli Senesi)

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Sangiovese's Best Buys

While Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Super Tuscans have stolen the thunder surrounding Sangiovese, perhaps the two best values of this noble Italian varietal may be Morellino di Scansano and Rosso di Montalcino.

Morellino di Scansano:
A solid 50+ miles southwest of Siena towards the coast in the Grosseto province rests the Tuscan hilltop town of Scansano. Here Sangiovese is most commonly identified as Morellino, or quite literally "little blackish one," from Scansano. In this the hot Maremma zone (the area stretching southward from Bolgheri to Lazio), the grapes are exposed to a more Mediterranean climate with enough heat to tone down Sangiovese's signature acidity. This means juicier fruit, more jam, and accessibility - think along the lines of plums and raspberries. Again, with variation in microclimate and producer style you will find an array of flavors that can incorporate minerality and more structure. Laws also permit the wine to include other varietals, including the cherry-like Ciliegiolo.

As Chianti regained its prestige and Bolgheri shot into stardom, prices skyrocketed. Other regions developed under the radar and Scansano's bevy of activity was a reaction to this price-restrictive trend. Le Pupille, Moris Farms, and Massavecchia started making an underground statement. Icons like Antinori, Jacopo Biondi-Santi, and Frescobaldi started investing more, and the wine world began to take notice, as did IWM's own Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich by starting their own estate under the name La Mozza.

Motta 2003 Morellino di Scansano $16.23
La Mozza 2003 Morellino di Scansano $16.50
Le Pupille 1998 Morellino Riserva $38.50
Le Pupille 2001 M. Poggio Valente $65.53 - limited quantity

Rosso di Montalcino:
Brunello's baby brother was born in 1984 in an effort to provide producers in the region with flexibility in creating more accessible wines with less stringent ageing requirements - as a result, the Rosso must be aged a minimum of one year as opposed to Brunello's four. The wines are made from the same grapes, territory, and producers, but the Rosso are generally fresher, lighter, and more approachable. However, from the right vintage and producer, the younger sibling is capable of outclassing his big brother. In selected years, the producer may even opt to use the cru grapes destined for Brunello as a value-infused Rosso.

Poggio di Sotto's 2001 Rosso di Montalcino combines elegance, structure, and approachability to rival many Brunellos. Il Palazzone offers a voluptuous match for this summer's carnivores, while La Fornace and Lisini provide a great introduction to the more muscular Sangiovese that resides in the Montalcino hilltops.

Il Palazzone 2000 Rosso di Montalcino $23.51
La Fornace 2001 Rosso di Montalcino $26.89
Lisini 2002 Rosso di Montalcino $24.74
Poggio di Sotto 2001 Rosso di Montalcino $41.25
Talenti 2002 Rosso di Montalcino $22.67
Tenuta la Fuga 2002 Rosso di Montalcino $22.00

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Super Tuscans, Sangiovese Style

From the elegance of Le Pergole Torte to the rare power of Cepparello to structure of Flaccianello to uniqueness achieved in Podere Forte's Petrucci - all are proof that pure Sangiovese without the aid of international varietals can truly be SUPER Tuscans! This was the mission set forth by Montevertine's Sergio Manetti. While he proved his position to both the Consorzio and the wine world, Tenuta San Guido's accomplishment in Sassicaia cannot be denied. The Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta of Tenuta San Guido showed us that Italy has its own take on the French varietals that can be distinctly Tuscan. Today I am offering the best of both worlds, where Sangiovese becomes an ideal match for Italy's take on Merlot, Syrah, and the Cabernets as well as Super Tuscans that continue to keep the Manetti spirit alive. To better understand each of the wines listed below, contact an IWM Portfolio Manager.

Sangiovese IGT
Cima 2001 Romalbo $44.00
Colle Santa Mustiola 1998 Poggio ai Chiari $49.86
Fattoria Vignavecchia (Beccari) 1999 Raddese $37.13
Fattoria del Cerro 2000 Manero Sangiovese $51.00
Fubbiano 1999 I Pampini $34.00 - limited quantity
Podere Forte 2001 Petrucci $69.00 - limited quantity
Enrico Fossi 2000 Vignavento $75.90
Fontodi 2001 Flaccianello $329.00 (3L)
Isole e Olena 1990 Cepparello $179.00 - limited quantity
J. Biondi-Santi 1998 Sassoalloro $29.95 - limited quantity
Montevertine 2001 Le Pergole Torte $160.00 (1.5L)
Palazzo Bandino 2003 Le Colombelline $16.83
Petrolo 2000 Torrione $42.50
Petrolo 2001 Torrione $42.50
Petrolo 2002 Torrione $34.50
Poggio Scalette 2000 Il Carbonaione $59.00
(Sangiovese di Lamole)
Satta Michele 1997 Cavaliere $66.40
Selvole 2001 Sangiovese $14.09
Tua Rita 2001 Perlato del Bosco $39.00 - limited quantity
Tua Rita 2002 Perlato del Bosco $39.69
Villa Cafaggio 1985 San Martino $155.00 - limited quantity

Sangiovese Blends
Antinori 2001 Solaia $164.91
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese)
Antinori 2001 Tignanello $78.50*
(Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Banfi 1993 SummuS $110.00 - limited quantity
(Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Castello dei Rampolla 2000 Sammarco $82.00
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese)
Ciacci Piccolomini 2001 Ateo $28.95
(Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot)
Cerbaiona 2000 Cerbaiona Rosso $49.00
Cerbaiona 2001 Cerbaiona Rosso $47.59
(Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah, Malvasia Nera)
Col d'Orcia 2003 Rosso Spezieri $11.55
(Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Merlot, Cabernet)
Collosorbo 2002 Sorbus $35.75
(Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Costanti 1997 Ardingo Calbello $39.86
(Merlot, Sangiovese)
Costanti 1998 Vermiglio $47.88 - limited quantity
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese)
Fattoria di Fiano 1999 Fianesco $43.49
(Sang., Colorino, Merlot, Canaiolo, Syrah, Cab. Sauvignon)
Frescobaldi 2001 Giramonte $79.20
(Sangiovese, Merlot)
Fuligni 1999 San Jacopo $41.65 - limited quantity
(Sangiovese, Merlot)
Grattamacco 2000 Rosso $75.62
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese)
La Sala 2000 Campo all'Albero $41.25
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese)
Le Macchiole 2000 Rosso $29.69 - limited quantity
Le Macchiole 2001 Rosso $31.50
(Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Luce della Vite 2000 Luce $57.75
Luce della Vite 2001 Luce $82.50
(Sangiovese, Merlot)
Frescobaldi 1999 Pomino Rosso $26.95 - limited quantity
(Sangiovese, Pinot Nero, Merlot)
Montevertine 2001 Montevertine Rosso $42.90
(Sangioveto, Canaiolo)
Montepoloso 1997 Nardo $79.00
(Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Poggio Gagliardo 1999 Gobbo ai Pianacci $44.00
(Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Poggio Gagliardo 1997 Rovo $44.00
(Sangiovese, Colorino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malvasia Nera)
Querciabella 1999 Camartina $73.67
Querciabella 2000 Camartina $75.00
(Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah)
Rocca di Castagnoli 2000 Stielle $52.80
(Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Tenuta San Guido 2003 Guidalberto $69.00*
(Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese)
Tenuta San Guido 2003 Le Difese $29.50*
(Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon)
*represents upcoming arrivals

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New Vintage Babbo Seminars

Please join us for two more terrific themed wine tastings as we continue to uncork Italy's best.

Barolo & Barbaresco 1990
Monday, July 25 ($495 per person)
There's a reason we've been obsessing over this vintage: The wines are drinking spectacularly now, and they still have lots of life ahead! After hearing raves for our recent tasting of 1990 Brunello di Montalcino, we scoured the cellar for a stellar lineup from Alba. Come taste these elegant, powerful reds with a menu of Piedmontese specialties to bring out their best.

Italy's "Cult Wines"
Monday, August 15 ($495 per person)
The French have their garagistes, the Californians their "cult cab" producers, and of course Italy has its share of boutique wineries (and wines) as well. Often with little more than a fanciful name to identify them ("Redigaffi," "Montevetrano," etc.), these limited- production gems have captured the hearts of critics and consumers alike - despite the difficulties inherent in finding them. We hunted down some of the rarer Italian cult wines for a tasting that will show them to be wines for the long haul, not just flashes in the pan.

How to Reserve:
Contact Caroline Marshall at 917.715.3599 and specify which tasting you would like to attend.

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Italy's Cult Wine Sampler

If you can't make the Vintage Babbo event in August, here are eight wines that are likely to capture the theme. Gravner, Valentini, Bea, Dal Forno, Galardi, Imparato, Tua Rita, and Antonio Ferrari - these are a few of the iconoclastic and cult names in Italian winemaking. Each has produced a wine that allows the individuality of the artist to show through, leaving a difficult comparison to any another wine. They disregard the status quo and market demand, paradoxically joining the avant-garde by reverting to time-honored methods or to Nature's own auspices. Their guidelines often include low yields, choice grape selection, open vat fermentation, extended maceration, long maturation, and respect for tradition or radically breaking rules set by an older generation, releasing wines when they themselves deem it appropriate, not when the media or consorzio does. This sampler, which will delight the collector, is supplemented by a booklet with extensive notes on the wines and the great men and women who make them. Click below to view the booklet online!

Italy's Cult Wine Sampler
Gravner 1998 'Breg' $89.97
Valentini 2001 Trebbiano $89.10
Paolo Bea 2000 Sagrantino 'Pagliaro' $78.26
Dal Forno 2000 Valpolicella $97.50
Galardi 2000 Terra di Lavoro $279.00 -limited quantity
Silvio Imparato 2002 Montevetrano $84.00
Tua Rita 2002 Redigaffi $249.00
Antonio Ferrari 1959 Solaria Jonica $139.95
Assorted 8-Pack Price (1 of each): $1,106.68*
*Free delivery in Manhattan

Click to see the Cult Wines booklet!