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IWM e-Letter: June 30, 2005
Northeast Italy - What
You Should Know! |
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| In
this Issue:
•
A Note from Sergio
• Trentino-Alto Adige
• Friuli's Frosty Whites
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and
more:
•
Veneto's Emblematic White & Spumante
• Veneto's Valpolicella
• Northeast Assorted Cases
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A
Note from Sergio
The excitement
here begins with the history, cultural infusion,
and native varietals, but it is substantiated
by the producer. I don't believe there is any
other realm where the curiosity and experimentation
of the winemaker shine through as they do in
the regions that encompass the Tre Venezie.
There is the artisanal genius of Quintarelli
as well as the avant-garde approach taken by
Gravner,
Kante,
and Radikon; below the radar lie Dipoli and
Miani,
who produce cult-like wines from plots of less
than four hectares; and then there are the new
classics from Dal
Forno, Hofstatter,
and Movia.
These are wines of distinction and personality,
finesse and structure - not just sheer power.
The inky-black juice of Lagrein,
the bubbly sparkles of Prosecco, intriguing
white wine blends, indigenous vines, and a host
of international varietals showing alluring
expressions found only in this sub-alpine region
- these are a few of the treasures I have found
in the Tre Venezie. The three regions that make
up northeastern Italy's wine scene offer the
excitement of the South with class that rivals
the big names of Piemonte. Together, the Veneto,
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and Trentino-Alto Adige
produce less than a fifth of Italy's total volume
of wine but account for about a third of all
DOC production - great things are developing,
so this is an area to watch. A handful of producers
in the Veneto are offering a revival of the
region's emblematic wines, Friuli is no longer
the only pace-setter for Italian whites due
to the strides accomplished by Trentino- Alto
Adige, and there are also Cabernets and Merlots
that show new, distinctly Italian dimensions
to these noble varietals.
Read on below to learn about
the wines of the Tre Venezie. Explore Prosecco,
Soave, Lagrein, Tocai, Valpolicella, and more.
There are plenty of whites for summer as well
as a host of reds that are perfect for your
grill selections. Should you have any questions
or wish to make a purchase, please contact a
Portfolio
Manager at 212.473.2323.
All the best,
Sergio Esposito
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Trentino-Alto
Adige
The
Impact of Cultural Infusion
Ancient winemaking tradition, privileged positioning
and microclimates, and an infusion of Roman,
German, and Austrian heritage: Trentino-Alto
Adige remains Italy's best kept secret. In the
Northernmost province of Italy, a mountainous
zone squeezed between the borders of Austria
and Switzerland, is one of Europe's oldest wine-growing
sites (predating 15 BC). As the name suggests,
Trentino-Alto Adige is comprised of two separate
areas - each with its own distinct culture.
Throughout history Alto Adige
has changed hands from the Romans to the Austro-Hungarian
Empire and back to the Italians, and it has
collected a potpourri of tradition and technique
in its viticulture. In fact, German is still
spoken here, and German wine names and denominations
are often used alongside Italian ones. On the
mountain slopes and hillsides the indigenous
Lagrein thrives and the noble Pinot Noir performs
at its best on Italian soil. The site is also
fabled to be the origin of the Traminer grape
(Gewurztraminer) as well as being host to varietals
more commonly associated with Austria, Alsace,
and Germany.
In contrast to Alto Adige, Trentino
is typically Italian and proud of its national
identity. It is home to the indigenous red Teroldego,
grown mostly on the plain of Campo Rotaliano.
Like Alto Adige, the region also fosters various
international varietals: here the Bordeaux varietals
are more about finesse and structure than power,
and Burgundy's noble Pinot Noir emerges with
grace and effortless balance.
Native
Varietals of Trentino-Alto Adige: Lagrein and
Teroldego
Despite its northern location, the indigenous
Lagrein achieves inky-purple reflections and
provides a gust of dark fruit with herbal notes.
The Benedictine monastery of Muri-Gries presents
an excellent introduction to the varietal, offering
notes of spice and pepper with their straight
Lagrein and a steroid-enhanced version with
their single-vineyard Abtei Riserva. Colterenzio
provides the ultimate expression of Lagrein
with a dense, dark wine full of bittersweet
fruit, velvety blackberries, sour cherries,
and coffee. In Trentino, the native Teroldego
shows similar characteristics and performs at
its peak under Elisabetta
Foradori, who has made this local and esoteric
grape into a superstar.
Muri-Gries 2002 Lagrein
$17.60
Muri-Gries 2001 Lagrein Riserva Abtei $38.50
Colterenzio
2000 Lagrein Cornell $41.36
Foradori
2002 Teroldego Rotaliano $19.80
International
White Varietals of Trentino-Alto Adige
Perhaps the best take on the Austrian and German
varietals is from Abbazia di Novacella - the
northernmost winery in all of Italy - where
the grapes develop aromatic, vivacious personalities
undiscovered in other regions. Muri-Gries brings
out the lively, ethereal side of Muller-Thurgau,
while La-Vis' Maso Roncador is clearly a mountain
wine, freshly acidic with the grape's smooth
side showing through. Perhaps the region's greatest
Gewurztraminer is made by Colterenzio - exotic
and almost creamy, with marks of cinnamon, pepper,
and nutmeg.
Muri-Gries 2003 Muller-Thurgau
$17.60
La-Vis 2003 Muller-Thurgau Maso Roncador $15.19
Abbazia di Novacella 2004 Kerner $19.80
Abbazia di Novacella 2004 Sylvaner $18.15
Colterenzio
2001 Gewurztraminer $58.29
International
Red Varietals of Trentino-Alto Adige
The Bordeaux varietals found in this region
are more about finesse and structure than power.
However, Dipoli's Fihl and the house signature
wine Iugum manage to combine both of these attributes
in exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot blends:
the former bears nicely integrated fruit, good
structure, and a mellow finish while the latter
is very modern, slick, and silky. Moving away
from Bordeaux we find Burgundy's Pinot Noir,
which was first introduced here by Sir Ludwig
Barth von Barthenau, whose estate passed later
to the Hofstätter
family and whose name is now found on an elegant
portrayal of the grape that discloses black
cherry and cocoa with hints of vanilla. This
is one of Italy's shining examples of the aristocratic
Pinot Noir, offering a nice alternative to Burgundy
and Oregon.
Peter
Dipoli 2000 Fihl $17.00
Peter Dipoli 2001 Iugum $45.33
Movia
1996 Veliko Rosso $36.47
Hofstatter
1999 Pinot Nero Barthenau $54.72
Click
for last week's e-Letter on Southern Wines!
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Friuli's
Frosty Whites
It's that time of year when
the season begs for frosty whites, and there
are none better than the world-class whites
of Friuli. Here in the northeast corridor of
Italy, the fusion of German, Slavic, and Italian
cultures has influenced the creation of Italy's
best white wines. We are not talking about the
simple Pinot Grigios that have recently overrun
American wine shops or the oxidized wines of
the old world, but rather about the structured,
complex bottlings that rival many of the classic
German and French whites. In addition to the
importance of the native Ribolla Gialla and
Tocai, Friuli's reputation lies in the production
of international varietals - French grapes introduced
more than two centuries ago by Napoleon's army
(most notably Sauvignon Blanc) - and the blended
wines known as Friuli's Super Whites.
Tocai
Friulano
Two of Friuli's most notable native white grapes
are Tocai Friulano and Ribolla Gialla. Tocai,
the more popular of the two, is also grown in
various regions outside of Friuli, but the ancient
indigenous varietal is at its best in the Collio.
("Friulano" was added to the name
Tocai to avoid confusion with Hungary's famous
dessert wine; eventually the wine may simply
be labeled "Friulano" based on arrangements
set by the EU.) This masculine white grape offers
a range of characteristics brought out by the
varying microclimates and producer styles, which
range from crisp to a creamy texture and from
smoky to peppery. The introductory bottlings
from Scarbolo and Bastianich
offer a simple display of Tocai's peach and
pear notes and its signature mineral finish,
while the select, later maturing grapes that
go into Bastianich's
Tocai Plus create a more lush, opulent wine.
Scarbolo 2002 Tocai Friulano
$12.95
Bastianich
2004 Tocai Friulano $15.95
Bastianich
2004 Tocai Plus $42.90
Ribolla
Gialla
Ribolla Gialla enjoys a long history as one
of Friuli's oldest indigenous vines. Back in
the 12th century, it was the drink of choice
in the Republic of Venice under the name Rabiola
del Collio. Today, the worldwide popularity
of Pinot Grigio and local fanfare for Tocai
have overshadowed this aromatic varietal. However,
in the hands of many of Friuli's most iconoclastic
producers the wine recaptures its own well-deserved
glory. In addition to the Ribollas produced
by Radikon, Miani,
and Gravner,
the two examples below are the best Ribollas
from Friuli. Each offers something different.
Like all of La
Castellada's wines their Ribolla is incredibly
concentrated, with ripe flavors of tropical
fruit. On the other hand, Damijan's
take on the grape reflects inspiration from
his mentor Josko
Gravner with a truly natural approach to
winemaking. The wine displays an almost cider-like
hue and provides notes of honey, nuts, and sweet
spices with bitter undertones. These two truly
unique wines show the range Friuli is capable
of providing.
Damijan
2001 Ribolla Gialla $38.50
La
Castellada 2000 Ribolla Gialla $53.68
La
Castellada 1998 Ribolla Gialla $49.98
Friuli's
Blends and Super Whites
In the sixties, avant-garde producers like Schiopetto
and Felluga created a crisp, clean style with
the introduction of stainless steel tanks and
the elimination of oxidation in the winemaking
process. This modern style eventually gave birth
to the Super White movement with the release
of Silvio
Jermann's blended Vintage Tunina. Complex
blends from producers like Vie
di Romans, La
Castellada, Lis
Neris, Villa Russiz, and Bastianich
continue to capture international attention
with their exotically aromatic or full-bodied
charm. The legacy behind many of Friuli's blends
and winemaking techniques continues to draw
attention with the more natural and "ancient"
approach taken by Gravner,
Damijan,
and Movia.
All are wines to be experienced!
Bastianich
2001 Vespa Bianco $25.95
(Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Picolit)
Bastianich
2001 Joe's Bianco $19.80
(Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc)
Movia
2000 Veliko Bianco $28.05
(Ribolla, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio)
Damijan
2001 Kaplja $40.44
(Chardonnay, Tocai Friulano, Malvasia Istriana)
La
Castellada 2001 Bianco $56.66
(Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Tocai)
Gravner
1998 Breg $89.87
(Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Riesling
Italico)
Click
for more recent offers from IWM!
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Veneto's Emblematic
White & Spumante
It has the romance of Romeo
and Juliet, it is home to the beloved city of
the sea, and it produces a trio of Italy's most
recognized wines - Soave, Valpolicella, and
Bardolino - as well as the uniquely Italian
Amarone, the sweet Recioto della Valpolicella,
and the sparkling Prosecco. Of all the Tre Venezie
regions, it is only in the Veneto that red wines
generally outperform whites. The reputations
of Amarone, Recioto, and a revived Valpolicella
have brought back respect to the region, even
while the Veneto continues to compete with Puglia
and Sicilia with regard to overall quantity.
Prosecco
di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene
Not one you'd want your son to have in his first
spelling bee, but there is no denying that it
is one of the hottest wines from Italy right
now. It is the traditional way to start off
an Italian event and a refreshing wine for summer.
This sparkling wine, hailing from the province
of Treviso in the hills north of Venice between
the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, is
generally softer than Champagne and typically
carries regional notes of almonds and peach.
Unlike Champagne, the spumante is produced through
the Charmat (tank) method. Locals believe it
to be a relative of the Pucinum wine of ancient
Rome, where it was the drink of choice of Empress
Livia. This wine has gained favor worldwide
as an excellent alternative to Champagne.
Col Vetoraz NV Prosecco
$16.89
Col Vetoraz NV Prosecco $186.47 / Case
Soave
Soave takes its name from a medieval village
just east of Verona towards Lake Garda and is
made from the local Garganega grape. Next to
Pinot Grigio, it may be Italy's most recognized
white. Like Chianti, it suffered a period of
commercialization and mass production. However,
long before the wine was misrepresented in the
seventies, it basked in centuries of praise
and was considered an enological masterpiece
by the early rulers of the land. Today there
is still a sea of insipid wine, but in the hands
of the right producer - like Pieropan, Anselmi,
and the new generation Inama
and Corte Sant'Alda - the native varietal achieves
floral aromatics and exceptional levels of mouth-filling
fruit. Rich flavors of apple to melon accented
by notes of almonds on the finish are typical
notes of Veneto's rising star Corte Sant'Alda.
Corte
Sant'Alda 2003 Soave Vigne Mezzane $17.82
Corte Sant'Alda 2003 Soave Vigne Mezzane $196.73
/ Case
Click
for IWM's featured producers!
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Veneto's
Valpolicella
Valpolicella, Valpolicella
Superiore or Ripasso, Amarone, and Recioto all
contain the Veneto grape trio of Corvina, Rondinella,
and Molinara. The simplest of these is straight
Valpolicella; next is the Valpolicella made
through the "ripasso" method (as many
recent Valpolicella Superiore are). To provide
the simple Valpolicella normale with some opulence,
some producers choose to use the ripasso method:
after the Valpolicella normale is fermented
in the usual way, it is placed in casks containing
the lees from a prior batch of Amarone or Recioto.
This process, which lasts two to three weeks,
adds color, tannins, and complex flavors. Another
approach to the ripasso method is to "pass"
the Valpolicella through the dried skins of
the Amarone. Unfortunately, the term ripasso
is not always indicated on the label, so it
is important to know producers who make this
style of wine.
Both Nicolis and Brigaldara
make simple Valpolicella, ideal "everyday
wines." Begali's
Rosso Tigiolo provides more opulence and earthy
notes, while Quintarelli's
fruitier Primofiore (meaning first press) receives
treatment from the fresh Amarone to provide
rich flavors of cherry, olives, spices, and
oak. This is IWM's signature red wine for the
change in season and grilling outdoors. Both
Quintarelli's
Valpolicella (Ca' del Merlo is Quintarelli's
single vineyard selection) and Dal
Forno's are fuel-injected collector's wines.
Though wines for winter fare, they can stand
up to the filets of the grill for a special
occasion, as can the Cabernet/Carmenère
blend Bradisismo from Inama
and Vignalta's
Bordeaux blend Gemola.
Brigaldara
2003 Valpolicella $13.52
Nicolis
2002 Valpolicella $16.50
Begali
Lorenzo 2000 Rosso Tigiolo $35.75
Quintarelli
2002 Primofiore $39.67
Quintarelli
1997 Ca' del Merlo $76.70
Dal
Forno Romano 1999 Valpolicella $95.00
Inama
1999 Bradisismo $52.95
Vignalta
1999 Gemola $43.34
Note: The 1999
Dal
Forno Valpolicella Superiore marks the first
year in which the wine uses grapes that have
been fully ripened, and then the grapes are
partially dried (similar to the passito method),
which increases the body and alcoholic content
of this wine while rendering it suitable for
aging in oak casks. In the past, instead of
using these partially dried grapes the wine
was passed through the Ripasso method.
Click to learn about Amarone and Recioto della
Valpolicella!
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Northeast Assorted
Cases
Friuli's
Blends:
Bastianich
2001 Vespa Bianco $25.95
Bastianich
2001 Joe's Bianco $19.80
Movia
2000 Veliko Bianco $28.05
Damijan
2001 Kaplja $40.44
La
Castellada 2001 Bianco $56.66
Gravner
1998 Breg $89.87
Friuli's Blends Six
Pack (1 of each): $260.77*
Friuli's Blends Case (2 of each): $488.88*
Assorted
Northeast Whites:
Col Vetoraz NV Prosecco
$16.89
Scarbolo 2002 Tocai Friulano $12.95
Bastianich
2004 Tocai Friulano $15.95
Bastianich
2002 Tocai Plus $42.90
Damijan
2001 Ribolla Gialla $38.50
Bastianich
2001 Joe's Bianco $19.80
La
Castellada 1998 Ribolla Gialla $49.98
Bastianich
2001 Vespa Bianco $25.95
Movia
2000 Veliko Bianco $28.05
Damijan
2001 Kaplja $40.44
Corte Sant'Alda 2003 Soave Vigne Mezzane $17.82
La
Castellada 2001 Bianco $56.66
Assorted Northeast Whites
Case: $341.14*
Assorted
Northeast Reds:
Muri-Gries 2002 Lagrein
$17.60
Muri-Gries 2001 Lagrein Riserva Abtei $38.50
Foradori
2002 Teroldego Rotaliano $19.80
Peter Dipoli 2000 Fihl $17.00
Peter Dipoli 2001 Iugum $45.33
Movia
1996 Veliko Rosso $36.47
Brigaldara 2003 Valpolicella $13.52
Nicolis
2002 Valpolicella $16.50
Begali
Lorenzo 2000 Rosso Tigiolo $35.75
Quintarelli
2002 Primofiore $39.67
Quintarelli
1997 Ca' del Merlo $76.70
Inama
1999 Bradisismo $52.95
Assorted Northeast Reds
Case: $383.14*
Valpolicella
Six Pack:
Brigaldara
2003 Valpolicella $13.52
Nicolis
2002 Valpolicella $16.50
Begali
Lorenzo 2000 Rosso Tigiolo $35.75
Quintarelli
2002 Primofiore $39.67
Quintarelli
1997 Ca' del Merlo $76.70
Dal
Forno Romano 1999 Valpolicella $95.00
IWM Valpolicella Six
Pack (1 of each): $277.14*
IWM Valpolicella Case (2 of each): $537.41*
*Free delivery in Manhattan
Click to order these samplers by fax!
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