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IWM e-Letter: June 30, 2005
Northeast Italy - What You Should Know!

In this Issue:
• A Note from Sergio
• Trentino-Alto Adige
• Friuli's Frosty Whites

 

and more:
Veneto's Emblematic White & Spumante
• Veneto's Valpolicella

• Northeast Assorted Cases

A Note from Sergio

The excitement here begins with the history, cultural infusion, and native varietals, but it is substantiated by the producer. I don't believe there is any other realm where the curiosity and experimentation of the winemaker shine through as they do in the regions that encompass the Tre Venezie. There is the artisanal genius of Quintarelli as well as the avant-garde approach taken by Gravner, Kante, and Radikon; below the radar lie Dipoli and Miani, who produce cult-like wines from plots of less than four hectares; and then there are the new classics from Dal Forno, Hofstatter, and Movia. These are wines of distinction and personality, finesse and structure - not just sheer power.

The inky-black juice of Lagrein, the bubbly sparkles of Prosecco, intriguing white wine blends, indigenous vines, and a host of international varietals showing alluring expressions found only in this sub-alpine region - these are a few of the treasures I have found in the Tre Venezie. The three regions that make up northeastern Italy's wine scene offer the excitement of the South with class that rivals the big names of Piemonte. Together, the Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and Trentino-Alto Adige produce less than a fifth of Italy's total volume of wine but account for about a third of all DOC production - great things are developing, so this is an area to watch. A handful of producers in the Veneto are offering a revival of the region's emblematic wines, Friuli is no longer the only pace-setter for Italian whites due to the strides accomplished by Trentino- Alto Adige, and there are also Cabernets and Merlots that show new, distinctly Italian dimensions to these noble varietals.

Read on below to learn about the wines of the Tre Venezie. Explore Prosecco, Soave, Lagrein, Tocai, Valpolicella, and more. There are plenty of whites for summer as well as a host of reds that are perfect for your grill selections. Should you have any questions or wish to make a purchase, please contact a Portfolio Manager at 212.473.2323.

All the best,
Sergio Esposito

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Trentino-Alto Adige

The Impact of Cultural Infusion
Ancient winemaking tradition, privileged positioning and microclimates, and an infusion of Roman, German, and Austrian heritage: Trentino-Alto Adige remains Italy's best kept secret. In the Northernmost province of Italy, a mountainous zone squeezed between the borders of Austria and Switzerland, is one of Europe's oldest wine-growing sites (predating 15 BC). As the name suggests, Trentino-Alto Adige is comprised of two separate areas - each with its own distinct culture.

Throughout history Alto Adige has changed hands from the Romans to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and back to the Italians, and it has collected a potpourri of tradition and technique in its viticulture. In fact, German is still spoken here, and German wine names and denominations are often used alongside Italian ones. On the mountain slopes and hillsides the indigenous Lagrein thrives and the noble Pinot Noir performs at its best on Italian soil. The site is also fabled to be the origin of the Traminer grape (Gewurztraminer) as well as being host to varietals more commonly associated with Austria, Alsace, and Germany.

In contrast to Alto Adige, Trentino is typically Italian and proud of its national identity. It is home to the indigenous red Teroldego, grown mostly on the plain of Campo Rotaliano. Like Alto Adige, the region also fosters various international varietals: here the Bordeaux varietals are more about finesse and structure than power, and Burgundy's noble Pinot Noir emerges with grace and effortless balance.

Native Varietals of Trentino-Alto Adige: Lagrein and Teroldego
Despite its northern location, the indigenous Lagrein achieves inky-purple reflections and provides a gust of dark fruit with herbal notes. The Benedictine monastery of Muri-Gries presents an excellent introduction to the varietal, offering notes of spice and pepper with their straight Lagrein and a steroid-enhanced version with their single-vineyard Abtei Riserva. Colterenzio provides the ultimate expression of Lagrein with a dense, dark wine full of bittersweet fruit, velvety blackberries, sour cherries, and coffee. In Trentino, the native Teroldego shows similar characteristics and performs at its peak under Elisabetta Foradori, who has made this local and esoteric grape into a superstar.

Muri-Gries 2002 Lagrein $17.60
Muri-Gries 2001 Lagrein Riserva Abtei $38.50
Colterenzio 2000 Lagrein Cornell $41.36
Foradori 2002 Teroldego Rotaliano $19.80

International White Varietals of Trentino-Alto Adige
Perhaps the best take on the Austrian and German varietals is from Abbazia di Novacella - the northernmost winery in all of Italy - where the grapes develop aromatic, vivacious personalities undiscovered in other regions. Muri-Gries brings out the lively, ethereal side of Muller-Thurgau, while La-Vis' Maso Roncador is clearly a mountain wine, freshly acidic with the grape's smooth side showing through. Perhaps the region's greatest Gewurztraminer is made by Colterenzio - exotic and almost creamy, with marks of cinnamon, pepper, and nutmeg.

Muri-Gries 2003 Muller-Thurgau $17.60
La-Vis 2003 Muller-Thurgau Maso Roncador $15.19
Abbazia di Novacella 2004 Kerner $19.80
Abbazia di Novacella 2004 Sylvaner $18.15
Colterenzio 2001 Gewurztraminer $58.29

International Red Varietals of Trentino-Alto Adige
The Bordeaux varietals found in this region are more about finesse and structure than power. However, Dipoli's Fihl and the house signature wine Iugum manage to combine both of these attributes in exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot blends: the former bears nicely integrated fruit, good structure, and a mellow finish while the latter is very modern, slick, and silky. Moving away from Bordeaux we find Burgundy's Pinot Noir, which was first introduced here by Sir Ludwig Barth von Barthenau, whose estate passed later to the Hofstätter family and whose name is now found on an elegant portrayal of the grape that discloses black cherry and cocoa with hints of vanilla. This is one of Italy's shining examples of the aristocratic Pinot Noir, offering a nice alternative to Burgundy and Oregon.

Peter Dipoli 2000 Fihl $17.00
Peter Dipoli 2001 Iugum $45.33
Movia 1996 Veliko Rosso $36.47
Hofstatter 1999 Pinot Nero Barthenau $54.72

Click for last week's e-Letter on Southern Wines!

Friuli's Frosty Whites

It's that time of year when the season begs for frosty whites, and there are none better than the world-class whites of Friuli. Here in the northeast corridor of Italy, the fusion of German, Slavic, and Italian cultures has influenced the creation of Italy's best white wines. We are not talking about the simple Pinot Grigios that have recently overrun American wine shops or the oxidized wines of the old world, but rather about the structured, complex bottlings that rival many of the classic German and French whites. In addition to the importance of the native Ribolla Gialla and Tocai, Friuli's reputation lies in the production of international varietals - French grapes introduced more than two centuries ago by Napoleon's army (most notably Sauvignon Blanc) - and the blended wines known as Friuli's Super Whites.

Tocai Friulano
Two of Friuli's most notable native white grapes are Tocai Friulano and Ribolla Gialla. Tocai, the more popular of the two, is also grown in various regions outside of Friuli, but the ancient indigenous varietal is at its best in the Collio. ("Friulano" was added to the name Tocai to avoid confusion with Hungary's famous dessert wine; eventually the wine may simply be labeled "Friulano" based on arrangements set by the EU.) This masculine white grape offers a range of characteristics brought out by the varying microclimates and producer styles, which range from crisp to a creamy texture and from smoky to peppery. The introductory bottlings from Scarbolo and Bastianich offer a simple display of Tocai's peach and pear notes and its signature mineral finish, while the select, later maturing grapes that go into Bastianich's Tocai Plus create a more lush, opulent wine.

Scarbolo 2002 Tocai Friulano $12.95
Bastianich 2004 Tocai Friulano $15.95
Bastianich 2004 Tocai Plus $42.90

Ribolla Gialla
Ribolla Gialla enjoys a long history as one of Friuli's oldest indigenous vines. Back in the 12th century, it was the drink of choice in the Republic of Venice under the name Rabiola del Collio. Today, the worldwide popularity of Pinot Grigio and local fanfare for Tocai have overshadowed this aromatic varietal. However, in the hands of many of Friuli's most iconoclastic producers the wine recaptures its own well-deserved glory. In addition to the Ribollas produced by Radikon, Miani, and Gravner, the two examples below are the best Ribollas from Friuli. Each offers something different. Like all of La Castellada's wines their Ribolla is incredibly concentrated, with ripe flavors of tropical fruit. On the other hand, Damijan's take on the grape reflects inspiration from his mentor Josko Gravner with a truly natural approach to winemaking. The wine displays an almost cider-like hue and provides notes of honey, nuts, and sweet spices with bitter undertones. These two truly unique wines show the range Friuli is capable of providing.

Damijan 2001 Ribolla Gialla $38.50
La Castellada 2000 Ribolla Gialla $53.68
La Castellada 1998 Ribolla Gialla $49.98

Friuli's Blends and Super Whites
In the sixties, avant-garde producers like Schiopetto and Felluga created a crisp, clean style with the introduction of stainless steel tanks and the elimination of oxidation in the winemaking process. This modern style eventually gave birth to the Super White movement with the release of Silvio Jermann's blended Vintage Tunina. Complex blends from producers like Vie di Romans, La Castellada, Lis Neris, Villa Russiz, and Bastianich continue to capture international attention with their exotically aromatic or full-bodied charm. The legacy behind many of Friuli's blends and winemaking techniques continues to draw attention with the more natural and "ancient" approach taken by Gravner, Damijan, and Movia. All are wines to be experienced!

Bastianich 2001 Vespa Bianco $25.95
(Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Picolit)
Bastianich 2001 Joe's Bianco $19.80
(Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc)
Movia 2000 Veliko Bianco $28.05
(Ribolla, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio)
Damijan 2001 Kaplja $40.44
(Chardonnay, Tocai Friulano, Malvasia Istriana)
La Castellada 2001 Bianco $56.66
(Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Tocai)
Gravner 1998 Breg $89.87
(Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Riesling Italico)

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Veneto's Emblematic White & Spumante

It has the romance of Romeo and Juliet, it is home to the beloved city of the sea, and it produces a trio of Italy's most recognized wines - Soave, Valpolicella, and Bardolino - as well as the uniquely Italian Amarone, the sweet Recioto della Valpolicella, and the sparkling Prosecco. Of all the Tre Venezie regions, it is only in the Veneto that red wines generally outperform whites. The reputations of Amarone, Recioto, and a revived Valpolicella have brought back respect to the region, even while the Veneto continues to compete with Puglia and Sicilia with regard to overall quantity.

Prosecco di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene
Not one you'd want your son to have in his first spelling bee, but there is no denying that it is one of the hottest wines from Italy right now. It is the traditional way to start off an Italian event and a refreshing wine for summer. This sparkling wine, hailing from the province of Treviso in the hills north of Venice between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, is generally softer than Champagne and typically carries regional notes of almonds and peach. Unlike Champagne, the spumante is produced through the Charmat (tank) method. Locals believe it to be a relative of the Pucinum wine of ancient Rome, where it was the drink of choice of Empress Livia. This wine has gained favor worldwide as an excellent alternative to Champagne.

Col Vetoraz NV Prosecco $16.89
Col Vetoraz NV Prosecco $186.47 / Case

Soave
Soave takes its name from a medieval village just east of Verona towards Lake Garda and is made from the local Garganega grape. Next to Pinot Grigio, it may be Italy's most recognized white. Like Chianti, it suffered a period of commercialization and mass production. However, long before the wine was misrepresented in the seventies, it basked in centuries of praise and was considered an enological masterpiece by the early rulers of the land. Today there is still a sea of insipid wine, but in the hands of the right producer - like Pieropan, Anselmi, and the new generation Inama and Corte Sant'Alda - the native varietal achieves floral aromatics and exceptional levels of mouth-filling fruit. Rich flavors of apple to melon accented by notes of almonds on the finish are typical notes of Veneto's rising star Corte Sant'Alda.

Corte Sant'Alda 2003 Soave Vigne Mezzane $17.82
Corte Sant'Alda 2003 Soave Vigne Mezzane $196.73 / Case

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Veneto's Valpolicella

Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore or Ripasso, Amarone, and Recioto all contain the Veneto grape trio of Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara. The simplest of these is straight Valpolicella; next is the Valpolicella made through the "ripasso" method (as many recent Valpolicella Superiore are). To provide the simple Valpolicella normale with some opulence, some producers choose to use the ripasso method: after the Valpolicella normale is fermented in the usual way, it is placed in casks containing the lees from a prior batch of Amarone or Recioto. This process, which lasts two to three weeks, adds color, tannins, and complex flavors. Another approach to the ripasso method is to "pass" the Valpolicella through the dried skins of the Amarone. Unfortunately, the term ripasso is not always indicated on the label, so it is important to know producers who make this style of wine.

Both Nicolis and Brigaldara make simple Valpolicella, ideal "everyday wines." Begali's Rosso Tigiolo provides more opulence and earthy notes, while Quintarelli's fruitier Primofiore (meaning first press) receives treatment from the fresh Amarone to provide rich flavors of cherry, olives, spices, and oak. This is IWM's signature red wine for the change in season and grilling outdoors. Both Quintarelli's Valpolicella (Ca' del Merlo is Quintarelli's single vineyard selection) and Dal Forno's are fuel-injected collector's wines. Though wines for winter fare, they can stand up to the filets of the grill for a special occasion, as can the Cabernet/Carmenère blend Bradisismo from Inama and Vignalta's Bordeaux blend Gemola.

Brigaldara 2003 Valpolicella $13.52
Nicolis 2002 Valpolicella $16.50
Begali Lorenzo 2000 Rosso Tigiolo $35.75
Quintarelli 2002 Primofiore $39.67
Quintarelli 1997 Ca' del Merlo $76.70
Dal Forno Romano 1999 Valpolicella $95.00
Inama 1999 Bradisismo $52.95
Vignalta 1999 Gemola $43.34

Note: The 1999 Dal Forno Valpolicella Superiore marks the first year in which the wine uses grapes that have been fully ripened, and then the grapes are partially dried (similar to the passito method), which increases the body and alcoholic content of this wine while rendering it suitable for aging in oak casks. In the past, instead of using these partially dried grapes the wine was passed through the Ripasso method.

Click to learn about Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella!

 

Northeast Assorted Cases

Friuli's Blends:
Bastianich 2001 Vespa Bianco $25.95
Bastianich 2001 Joe's Bianco $19.80
Movia 2000 Veliko Bianco $28.05
Damijan 2001 Kaplja $40.44
La Castellada 2001 Bianco $56.66
Gravner 1998 Breg $89.87

Friuli's Blends Six Pack (1 of each): $260.77*
Friuli's Blends Case (2 of each): $488.88*

Assorted Northeast Whites:
Col Vetoraz NV Prosecco $16.89
Scarbolo 2002 Tocai Friulano $12.95
Bastianich 2004 Tocai Friulano $15.95
Bastianich 2002 Tocai Plus $42.90
Damijan 2001 Ribolla Gialla $38.50
Bastianich 2001 Joe's Bianco $19.80
La Castellada 1998 Ribolla Gialla $49.98
Bastianich 2001 Vespa Bianco $25.95
Movia 2000 Veliko Bianco $28.05
Damijan 2001 Kaplja $40.44
Corte Sant'Alda 2003 Soave Vigne Mezzane $17.82
La Castellada 2001 Bianco $56.66

Assorted Northeast Whites Case: $341.14*

Assorted Northeast Reds:
Muri-Gries 2002 Lagrein $17.60
Muri-Gries 2001 Lagrein Riserva Abtei $38.50
Foradori 2002 Teroldego Rotaliano $19.80
Peter Dipoli 2000 Fihl $17.00
Peter Dipoli 2001 Iugum $45.33
Movia 1996 Veliko Rosso $36.47
Brigaldara 2003 Valpolicella $13.52
Nicolis 2002 Valpolicella $16.50
Begali Lorenzo 2000 Rosso Tigiolo $35.75
Quintarelli 2002 Primofiore $39.67
Quintarelli 1997 Ca' del Merlo $76.70
Inama 1999 Bradisismo $52.95

Assorted Northeast Reds Case: $383.14*

Valpolicella Six Pack:
Brigaldara 2003 Valpolicella $13.52
Nicolis 2002 Valpolicella $16.50
Begali Lorenzo 2000 Rosso Tigiolo $35.75
Quintarelli 2002 Primofiore $39.67
Quintarelli 1997 Ca' del Merlo $76.70
Dal Forno Romano 1999 Valpolicella $95.00

IWM Valpolicella Six Pack (1 of each): $277.14*
IWM Valpolicella Case (2 of each): $537.41*

*Free delivery in Manhattan

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Store Information:
Italian Wine Merchants
108 East 16th Street
New York, NY 10003
Phone: 212.473.2323
Fax: 212.473.1952
sergio@italianwinemerchant.com

© 1999 Italian Wine Merchants All rights reserved.

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Note: Prices and availability are subject to change.
IWM is not responsible for typographical errors.