and more:
• More Indigenous Campanian Reds
• Grapes of Sicilia and Sardegna
• Puglia's Varietals

A Note from Sergio

Over the past weeks I have provided some of Italy's most collectible wines, from Mascarello's Barolos to Angelo Gaja's single-vineyard Barbarescos to Quintarelli's passito based wines. However, with the warm weather upon us I find it more than appropriate to head South into Italy's treasure trove of "archaeological varieties" that date back to antiquity. The romance of these ancient varietals, rescued from near extinction, has brought well- deserved attention back to the regions of Campania, Basilicata, Sicilia, Sardegna, and Puglia as I have indicated in previous e-Letters.

Again, these exotic tastes are perfect for the adventurous palate and for summer entertaining. Many of the reds, like Campania's peppery Aglianico, can stand up to the seasoned flavors of a New York Strip, while whites like Sardegna's coastal Vermentino offer the appropriate lemon zest to complement various fish dishes. Whether you are an experienced oenophile or just beginning to explore, you will appreciate the range these rare varietals of Southern Italy can provide. There are many past favorites of IWM, as well as the introduction of some new producers who add a unique touch to these mystifying varietals.

Please read on below to learn more about the origin and unique characteristics of Aglianico, Negroamaro, Nero d'Avola, Primitivo, Cannonau, Greco di Tufo, Fiano, Grillo, and Uva di Troia among others. Should you be interested in ordering these wines, please contact a Portfolio Manager at 212.473.2323.

All the best,
Sergio Esposito

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Aglianico from Campania and Basilicata

The noblest grape of the South is Aglianico. While it is also cultivated in Puglia and Sicilia, it reaches its pinnacle in the regions of Campania (Aglianico del Taburno, Sannio Aglianico, Solopaca Aglianico, Benevento Aglianico, and Taurasi) and Basilicata (Aglianico del Vulture). The centuries-old Aglianico grape most likely derives its name from Ellenico or Hellenico, indicating that the Greeks brought the grapes to the Italic peninsula as early as 700 B.C. Of all the less-known varietals that hide in the nooks and crannies of the Boot, Aglianico is the most promising. Campania's celebrated climate of the Amalfi coast, volcanic soils, and high elevation all provide for a late ripening grape filled with flavors that lean toward black fruit, spice, and minerals. In Taurasi, the grape achieves its knighthood as it is often referred to as the "Barolo of the South." At its best Aglianico based wines are dry, well structured, highly powerful, tannic reds with noticeable acidity and the ability to age - as is the case with Molettieri, Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi and Serpico, and Basilicata's Paternoster Don Anselmo. It can also be produced in a more subtle and youthful fruit-driven style as in Rubrato, Synthesi, Villa Carafa, and a recent addition to the IWM portfolio, DeLucia - these make ideal barbeque wines to match the charcoaled red meat flavors from the grill. In between these two styles is the concentrated Castello Ducale 2001 Aglianico, another new arrival to IWM.

DeLucia 2002 Aglianico Sannio $23.97
DeLucia 2001 Aglianico Murellaia $41.82
Castello Ducale 2001 Aglianico Contessa Ferrara $36.35
Villa Raiano 2001 Aglianico $32.05
Villa Carafa 2001 Aglianico $14.85
Molettieri 1999 Taurasi Riserva $57.75
Feudi di San Gregorio 1997 Taurasi Riserva $66.00
Feudi di San Gregorio 2001 Serpico $74.99
Feudi di San Gregorio 2002 Rubrato $14.30
Paternoster 1999 Don Anselmo $49.50 (Basilicata)
Paternoster 2001 Synthesi $16.50 (Basilicata)
Basilisco 2001 Basilisco Aglianico $46.61 (Basilicata)

IWM Aglianico Case Sampler: $447.99* (1 of each)
*Free delivery in Manhattan

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Campania's Indigenous White Varietals

The Aristocratic Fiano
Perhaps the most interesting white grape of the South is Fiano. This aristocratic varietal, praised by the Romans, recently received attention when it was crowned with the highest wine classification: Fiano di Avellino DOCG. The grape was facing near extinction in the 1940's when Campania's historic estate, Mastroberardino, claims to have saved it. Some say the name 'Fiano' implies that bees are attracted to the sweet grape; there are also those who believe the name is derived from a type of apple, which is one of the signature notes of the grape along with herbs, smokiness, and hazelnuts (another popular crop of the region). The grape proves that there are white wines that can age coming out of the South. But this medium-to-full bodied wine, depending on the production style used, is at its best fresh and in the summer. There is the ripe, full, and fleshy Kratos from Maffini and Perella from De Conciliis as well as the smokier traditional style of Villa Raiano.

Villa Raiano 2002 Fiano di Avellino $23.76
De Conciliis 2003 Perella Fiano $24.75
Luigi Maffini 2002 Kratos Fiano $21.45

Greco di Tufo - Traced Back to 1st Century BC
Accompanying the Fiano with a new DOCG ranking is Greco di Tufo. Imported by the Greeks back in the first millennium, the vine thrives in the tufaceous, volcanic soils around the hillside villages of Tufo. The grape offers refreshing flavors with mineral notes and an acidic streak that makes it lighter and crisper than the rivaling Fiano. Like its counterpart, it is claimed to have been rescued from near extinction by Mastroberardino.

Aminea 2002 Greco di Tufo $15.40

Falanghina - Wine of Roman Poets
Perhaps overshadowed by the newly approved DOCG status of Campania's other two great white wines, Greco di Tufo and Fiano, quality Falanghina is now showing its true colors as it did long ago. As a component of the historically famous Falerno wine, this grape was once praised by the poets of classical Rome and graced the tables of emperors and dignitaries. At the time of the great Roman wars, generals were said to have supplied this golden and mystical juice to their conquering troops.

DeLucia 2003 Falanghina $23.97

Pallagrello Bianco - Even More Obscure
Even more obscure than the Fiano, Greco di Tufo, and Falanghina is Pallagrello Bianco. Often confused with another obscure varietal, Coda di Volpe, it is one of the few Italian grapes to have a sibling black grape (Pallagrello Nero). Pallagrello Bianco has become a recent favorite at IWM with the introduction of Vestini Campagnano's take on the little-known indigenous grape with its ripe tropical notes. Another producer specializing in the obscure varietal is Terre del Principe, who discovered a few pre-phylloxera plants well over 100 years old and has made them a priority.

Terre del Principe 2003 Pallagrello Bianco $35.64**
Vestini Campagnano 2003 Pallagrello Bianco $38.36

IWM Campanian White Six Pack: $147.69 (1 of each)
IWM Campanian White Case: $271.75* (2 of each)
*Free delivery in Manhattan
**Terre del Principe Pallagrello Bianco is not included

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More Indigenous Campanian Reds

The Explosive Casavecchia ("Old House")
At the turn of the 20th century, it is said that a massive grandfather vine with a trunk measuring a yard in diameter remained nestled at the foot of an old stone farmhouse. A figure of strength, the vine stood tall, overriding the disease and phylloxera that plagued "Oenotria" (wine land). If not for this chance discovery, the Casavecchia vine would have remained a memory known only to those who passed long ago. With support from Luigi Veronelli (Italy's leading food and wine critic), this wine has since received much attention for its distinctive flavors and full bodied complexity. Villa Carafa offers an approachable introduction to the varietal, while Vestini Campagnano offers an explosive barrique aged example with the capacity for further ageing.

Villa Carafa 2001 Casavecchia $19.85
Vestini Campagnano 2001 Casavecchia $66.90

Lacryma Christi - The Mythical Tears
Perhaps the most mythical of all wine folklore is that of "Christ's tears," or Lacryma Christi. The three grape varietals that make up this wine - Aglianico, Sciascinoso, and Piedirosso - all come from the volcanic soil on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius. According to Italian legend, when Lucifer was cast from Paradise he managed to take a piece of heaven with him. As the fallen angel descended, the sacred piece of Paradise dropped into in the Gulf of Naples. The Lord wept and his tears fell upon the earth between Vesuvius and Sorrento, and thus life was given to the vines. A similar local legend attributes the vineyard-producing tears to Bacchus, the Roman god of wine.

Villa Carafa 2001 Lacryma Christi $19.85

Pallagrello Nero - The Choice of the Bourbon Kings
The grapes of this vine and its sibling Pallagrello Bianco are said to have Greek origins and correspond to the grapes used for the production of Falerno, known to the Romans as the 'pilleolata.' Centuries later the wine is said to have been a favorite of Ferdinando IV, Bourbon King of the Two Sicilies, who shared it with guests of honor at his dinner table towards the end of the Naploenic Era. While other estates have taken some interest in this varietal, it is a main focus of Vestini Campagnano, who produces one of the biggest, most powerful wines we have tasted in recent times. The tannins alone provide quite a shock. Somehow, powerful blasts of fruit-laden aromas and fully ripened fruit create an unexpected balance in a wine this immense. Complexity and dynamism beyond expectation.

Vestini Campagnano 2001 Pallagrello Nero $66.90

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Grapes of Sicilia and Sardegna

Grillo - More Than A Marsala Ingredient
While there are some who claim it was brought by the Phoenicians, most believe that the white grape Grillo is native to Puglia and that it found its way to Sicilia as a replacement vine in the aftermath of the 19th century phylloxera outbreak. Grillo was at one time the preferred varietal in the blend for the fortified wine Marsala along with Catarratto. Today producers like Fondo Antico are taking advantage of the grape's high sugar content to produce full-bodied wines with evident notes of nuts and honeyed fruit. The top wineries have found that Grillo also shows well in blends with both international and fellow indigenous varietals.

Fondo Antico 2003 Grillo Parlante $20.40 (Grillo)
Fondo Antico 2002 Il Coro $27.34 (50% Grillo, 50% Chardonnay)
Spadafora 2002 Don Pietro Bianco $14.02 (Inzolia, Grillo, Cotarratto)

Nero d'Avola or Calabrese - Sicilia's Class Act
Nero d'Avola - aka Calabrese, with its obvious Calabrian origin - is Sicilia's class act among red wines. The high sugar levels and firm acidity are a rarity in the demanding heat conditions of the island and make the varietal an ideal blending grape when added with less acidic varietals, including Nerello Mascalese, Merlot, Syrah, or Frappato (where it creates the Cerasuolo di Vittoria from the Southeast territory of the same name). However, this grape can shine on its own, creating deep, dark reds that are often compared to Syrah. With the varying soils and producer techniques the grape can be expressed in a range of styles. There is the plump, supple approach taken by Fazio and a more masculine effort from Ceuso, who under the Custera label adds Cabernet and Merlot. IWM also offers several exemplary bottlings that show the way these same local producers use the land to bring out new faces of international varietals.

Ceuso 2000 Custera $35.20 (Nero d'Avola, Cab. Sauvignon, Merlot)
Fazio 2003 Torre dei Venti $14.30 (Nero d'Avola)
Spadafora 2001 Syrah Schietto $36.46 (Syrah)
Gurrida 2001 Victory Rosso $44.55 (Grenache)

Nerello Mascalese - Making A Comeback
While Nero d'Avola has taken the spotlight as Sicilia's dominant red varietal, Nerello Mascalese is also putting on a good show. 'Nerello' refers to a large family of Sicilian vines of which Nerello Mascalese is a sub variety believed to have originated on the volcanic slopes of Mt. Etna in Northeastern Sicilia. After Nero d'Avola it is Sicilia's most planted red varietal and is usually used as a blending grape with Nerello Mantellato and Nerello Cappuccio. Producers like Palari, Rapitalà, Santa Anastasia, and Donnafugata are bringing the indigenous varietals of Sicilia to the forefront. There is also the historic estate of Murgo, which produces sparklers (most notably Murgo Brut) as well as still wines (including Etna Rosso). Their approach of methode traditionelle produces seductive sparkling wines; in fact, they are the only Sicilian producer making sparklers by this technique.

Murgo Brut $24.76 (Nerello Mascalese)
Murgo 2002 Etna Rosso $17.82
(85% Nerello Mascalese, 15% Nerello Mantellato)

Vermentino - Sardegna's Best White
The Spanish occupation of Sardegna during the 15th century brought varietals like Cannonau (Grenache) and Carignano, but the white Vermentino is Sardegna's greatest grape attraction. While the grape is planted throughout the island as Vermentino di Sardegna, it is only in the cooler northern area of Gallura that the wines produced have received DOCG status. (Considering the limited number of regions that have achieved this classification, it is quite an achievement for this remote viticultural area.) Here the granite-based soils and cool Tyrrhenian breezes provide for steeliness, zesty flavors, and lemon-like acidity that make it a refreshing seafood wine. The best example of Vermentino is produced by Capichera.

Capichera 2003 Vermentino di Gallura $47.30

Cannonau - Spain's Contribution to Sardegna
Known elsewhere as Granaxa, Garnacha, or Grenache, Cannonau is Sardegna's most widely planted red varietal because it adapts well to the extreme heat and dryness. The grape is also referred to as Alicante and was brought to the island by the conquering Spanish who were said to have loaded their ships with "courage, cannon, and Sardinian wine." Today, the greatest expression of this black grape comes under the experienced hands of one of Italy's greatest consulting winemakers. After Giacomo Tachis (Sassicaia, Tignanello, Solaia) retired, he returned to his native island and quickly became involved with the Argiolas estate to produce the Cannonau-based Turriga. The estate also produces an excellent summer Rosato that combines native Sardinian grapes.

Argiolas 1999 Turriga $59.50 (85% Cannonau, 15% Malvasia Nero)
Argiolas 2003 Rosato Serra Lori $12.09
(Cannonau, Monica, Carignano, Bovale Sardo)

IWM Sicily/Sardegna Case: $325.35 (1 each of the above)

Puglia's Varietals

Negroamaro - Salice Salentino and Copertino
Puglia's three major grape vareties are Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Malvasia Nera. The Negroamaro goes into southern Puglia's most established reds: Salice Salentino (along with a small percentage of Malvasia Nera) and the worthy Copertino (which can include Malvasia Nera, Montepulciano, and Sangiovese). It is believed that this thick-skinned, deeply colored grape with its propensity to thrive in the difficult conditions this far South is related to the Greek vine Xinomavro; others believe it is purely indigenous to Puglia. Regardless, it is capable of producing denser and more structured wines than its compeer Primitivo.

Messapicus 1999 Copertino Riserva $14.85
(Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera, Montepulciano, Sangiovese)
Messapicus 1999 Salice Salentino $14.85
(Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera)
Vetrere 2003 Negroamaro $16.91

Primitivo - Italy's Zinfandel?
Most Americans have probably heard of Primitivo due to its acclaimed genetic relationship to the spicy red Zinfandel. Whether they have identical DNA, or show clonal differences, this thinner skinned Italian grape does share many of Zin's characterisitics: soft tannins, opulent fruit, notes of spice, and the signature high alcohol content. Despite its high alcohol, though, Primitivo is an early ripening grape picked in mid to late August. The grape performs at its best in the DOC zone of Manduria, but grows in selected regions of the South.

Mille Una 2001 Primitivo Majara $22.00
Vetrere 2002 Primitivo $25.76

Uva di Troia - A Mythical Past
The native grape of northern Puglia, like many other antique varietals, has almost mythical ties to the past as there are those who believe the grape arrived via the ancient Greeks from Troy or 'Troia.' Another theory suggests it originated in Asia Minor. It is one of the more scarce grapes of Italy despite its ability to provide richness and depth. Torre Quarto offers a nice introduction to the rare varietal, however, it is most often used as the primary grape in the red Castel del Monte, which takes the name of the magnificent 12th century castle built by Emperor Friedrich II that adorns the wine zone.

Torre Quarto 2002 Bottaccia Uva di Troia $15.84

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