and more:
• Father's Day Gift: Monthly Wine Club
• Wine Dinners at Babbo with IWM!

A Note from Sergio

In the past 12 months, I have on several occasions referenced my concerns with Montalcino: among other points, that the growth rate of new vineyards is alarming and that producer experimentation such as blending is leading Montalcino down the dangerous path of losing its typicity. However, there is a handful of producers like Soldera, Cerbaiona, Poggio di Sotto, Sassetti, Talenti, and the producer I am featuring today, Il Palazzone, that provide a unique expression of the Sangiovese grape. Each producer manages to cultivate its personality with power, concentration, and longevity - it was these preserving qualities that Clemente Santi was attempting to capture when he isolated a Sangiovese clone in the 1840's.

A lot has happened in the region recently, including a trend toward more internationally styled wines. While two Americans, Mariani and Mondavi, have undoubtedly made a grandiose impact on the Montalcino scene, it is the third, under the Il Palazzone label, who I believe is establishing himself by taking a more artisanal approach to wine production. Richard Parsons, CEO and Chairman of TimeWarner, acquired the estate just a few years back and has managed loyally to participate in the production of his wine at every stage despite a demanding agenda here in New York. This New Yorker and wine enthusiast is producing Brunello that displays a more austere and classic side to the noble grape.

Today, I am pleased to highlight the limited production wines of Il Palazzone as well as providing a general introduction to Brunello. Should you have additional questions or want to purchase these wines, please call Perry Porricelli at 212.473.2323.

All the best,
Sergio Esposito

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Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino

Il Palazzone, "The Big Palace," ironically is a small estate (10 acres under vine) located in the heart of the Montalcino production region, just 1 km west of the Montalcino town itself, and is in close proximity to the historic Costanti estate and the cult wine favorite from La Cerbaiona / Salvioni. The advantage of this part of Montalcino is that in hot years like 1999 and 2000 the grapes avoid the harsh heat with a little hint of over-ripeness that exists elsewhere in Montalcino. These collector wines are the perfect result of the terroir elements working together: an altitude of 400+ meters provides cooling and ventilation, an established root system allows for resilience during drought periods, and the tufaceous and chalky soils provide for mineral characteristics in the wine. It is in this region and heading southwest towards Tavernelle that the greatest, most structured Brunello is produced. Under the right guidance these wines can be more austere and can have the ability to age longer. Dick Parsons has managed this alongside famed oenologist Paolo Vagaggini (who has worked with Nardi, Uccelliera, and Fuligni). In the cellar, Paolo pays respect to the fruit by using various dimensions of oak barrels to create a harmonious balance between the fruit aromas of the grapes and the secondary bouquet developed in the aging process.

Il Palazzone focuses its energy on just three bottlings - Brunello di Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, and Rosso di Montalcino - all of which are very full-bodied and elegant. The Brunello Riserva is produced only in truly outstanding vintages, and all the wines are aged in French oak. In order to concoct ageworthy Brunello of the best quality, the estate allows an extra year in wood beyond the DOCG standard and releases each vintage six months or more after most wineries do. Although the ripe vintages of 1995 and 1997 are both showing well now, we do recommend holding the 1997 for a few more years; the 1999 should rest until 2009 for the optimal experience; and the 2000 Rosso di Montalcino, which is among the best in the vintage, is ready to drink today!

Il Palazzone 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $69.98
Il Palazzone 1999 Brunello di Montalcino $84.95
Il Palazzone 1998 Brunello di Montalcino $72.60
Il Palazzone 1997 Brunello di Montalcino $66.83
Il Palazzone 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $97.65
Il Palazzone 1995 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $83.16
Il Palazzone 2000 Rosso di Montalcino $23.51 (not included in case)

Il Palazzone Brunello Six-Pack (6): $475.17* (1 of each)
Il Palazzone Brunello Case Sampler (12): $926.34* (2 of each)
*Free delivery in Manhattan

Due to the estate's desirable location in wine country and its close proximity to the historic city of Montalcino, Il Palazzone provides the ideal accomodations for the thirsty traveller. Click to learn more!

Click for more Brunello!

Understanding the Individuality of Montalcino

Brunello (the little dark one) is a Tuscan dialect name for a particular Sangiovese clone most often grown in Montalcino, south of both Chianti and Siena. The ancient walled city, whose name means "the mountain of the holm-oaks" has a rich history that includes struggles against the Florentines and the Spanish empire. This circular territory, delimited by the Orcia, Asso, and Ombrone valleys, has a diameter of 16 kilometers and a surface area of 24,362 hectares. As you will learn below, there is no finer residence to extract complexity from the Sangiovese grape. Click for a detailed map (please allow a moment for the PDF file to open).

While vineyards are believed to have graced the rolling hills of Montalcino as early as the 10th century, the history of Brunello di Montalcino is relatively short by Italian wine standards. Many of the estates in the region trace their lineage back several centuries, but Brunello is just 150 years old. Up until the 1500's the wine of the region was a sweet white from the Muscat grape labelled Moscadello di Montalcino and was followed by wines made from the traditional Tuscan varietals Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Trebbiano, and Malvasia. The birth of Brunello dates to the mid-1800's when Clemente Santi took an isolated Sangiovese clone and planted the vines on what would become the legendary family estate, Il Greppo.

With its growth, Brunello became recognized as the ultimate expression of the Sangiovese grape in that it combines power, concentration, complexity, and personality that few Chiantis or Vino Nobile di Montepulcianos can match. However, it is not the clone itself that is responsible for this. Among the contributing factors are soil composition, climatic conditions, altitudes, and ageing requirements set by the DOCG. In the Montalcino zone the soil will generally contain more sand and limestone than soils farther north in the region of Chianti. The climate is another decisive factor, as there is a significant shift from the damper, cooler, continental climate of Chianti Classico to a more dry, heat-infused Mediterranean environment that is cooled by air currents formed by the Montalcino hills and shelter provided by Tuscany's highest peak, Mount Amiata. It is these influences that enhance the muscularity of the Sangiovese grape, in turn making a more rich, dark, concentrated, and delicious red (heavier and more tannic than Chianti). The tongue-curling tannins and firm acidity allow these wines to age and have captured the attention of wine collectors worldwide. The longevity of wines from this area was tested by Clemente's grandson Ferruccio Biondi-Santi when he laid down significant quantities of the 1888 and 1891 vintages. These have proven their endurance through countless tastings, even one hundred years after their bottling. While the Santi family had this early vision, it wasn't until the 1960's that Brunello began to show its grandeur thanks to the early efforts of the Costanti estate and Giovanni Colombini of Fattoria dei Barbi, among others.

As with last week's analysis of the Barolo region, the Montalcino production zone can be broken down into a range of subzones. Within each there are variations in altitude, soil composition, and weather patterns. In fact, the Consorzio lists more than 24 distinct microclimates in the area. In addition to this range of elements there is an array of styles from each producer that make it difficult to examine terroir in a side-by-side comparison. However, the six pack below will provide a nice introduction to vintage variation, producer style, and terroir. It includes wines from the legendary 1995, 1997, and 1999 vintages; the overlooked 1998; the forward, modern style of Argiano from Sant'Angelo in contrast to the more angular style of Lisini; the class of Il Palazzone's Riserva from Montalcino; Antinori's take on Brunello with Pian delle Vigne; Tenuta Caparzo's elegance from the Montosoli area; and a "baby Brunello" from La Fornace in the northeast area of Pianelli. Use this map and the tasting case below as a guide to Brunello. Contact an IWM Portfolio Manager for more specifics.

Introduction to Brunello:
Il Palazzone 1995 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $83.16
Argiano 1997 Brunello di Montalcino $69.95
Pian delle Vigne 1998 Brunello di Montalcino $69.00
Caparzo 1999 Brunello di Montalcino $39.50
Lisini 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $49.99
La Fornace 2001 Rosso di Montalcino $26.89

Brunello Six Pack Sampler (6): $338.49* (1 of each)
Brunello Case Sampler (12): $642.01* (2 of each)
*Free delivery in Manhattan

Click for more Brunello producers!

Father's Day Gift: Monthly Wine Club

The enthusiast looking to discover quality Italian wine will find the perfect match in IWM's Monthly Wine Club: Big Wines Passport. Whether for Dad on Father's Day or a special treat for yourself, this is a distinct learning experience that will expand the mind and palate. IWM's most popular passport, "Big Wines" includes single vineyard selections and some of Italy's major powerhouse wines. These bottlings are drinkable now but may improve with age. Accompanying the monthly selections are producer and tasting notes that will help develop your own observations.

Includes:
- Three Wines per Month
- Prices Well Below Market Value
- Producer / Tasting Notes
- Vino Italiano
- Six Brunello Wine Glasses

Pricing Options:
3-Month Program: $534.00
6-Month Program: $984.00
12-Month Program: $1,884.00

For more Father's Day gift ideas visit our Gift Page or call 212.473.2323 to take care of all your gift-giving needs!

Wine Dinners at Babbo with IWM!

IWM is pleased to announce our partnering effort with Babbo to bring vintage Italian wine to the enthusiast. Vintage Babbo is a new wine seminar and tasting series held at our sister restaurant. Presented by Joe Bastianich and Dave Lynch, these Monday evening events are open to the public and feature rare wine selections as well as a tasting menu designed specially by Mario Batali. The tastings are meditations on the history and evolution of Italian wine and present the opportunity to taste the rare, the classic, and the difficult-to-find gems of the Boot - with food that magnifies the enjoyment of each sip!

Italy Takes on the World, Part "Deux":Taking on the French
June 20th, $495 per person
The last time we had Italy take on the world, we didn't actually put the Italians up against their vaunted international competition. For this tasting, we'll break Babbo house rules and allow in some great reds from Bordeaux, Burgundy, and elsewhere. How does cru Barolo stack up against cru Burgundy? How about a Bordeaux-style super-Tuscan versus actual Bordeaux? And for that matter, how does Mario tackle a Frenchified theme like this? Don't miss this one-of-a-kind event!

HOW TO RESERVE
Contact Caroline Marshall at 917.715.3599 and specify which tasting you would like to attend.

Click for more on IWM Tasting Events!