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IWM e-Letter: June 1, 2005
Bartolo Mascarello's Legacy |
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this Issue:
•
A Note from Sergio
• Mascarello 2000 and More!
• Mascarello Dolcetto
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and
more:
•
Understanding Cru Barolo
• Father's Day Gift Ideas from IWM
• Wine Dinners at Babbo with IWM!
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A
Note from Sergio
Scavino
Rocche dell'Annunziata, Aldo
Conterno Cicala, Giacosa
Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto - these
wines represent some of the greatest expressions
of the Nebbiolo. The advent of single-vineyard
bottlings, launched by the likes of Beppe Colla
of Prunotto
and the Ceretto
brothers over thirty years ago have had a profound
impact on the Barolo
landscape. There is much to discover within
each commune and within each vineyard on the
soils of the Langhe hills. However, the Holy
Grail of Barolo is not a single-vineyard wine
labeled Brunate, Cannubi, or Rocche dell'Annunziata.
The divine juice is rather a cuvee from the
Mascarello
estate's single bottling of Barolo.
The grapes for
this blend are sourced from just five hectares
planted in the historic and prestigious Barolo
vineyards of Cannubi, Rue, San Lorenzo, and
Rocche from La Morra which allows for just 1,200
cases, of which only a handful make it to the
States. Here, three great protectors of Barolo
tradition (Giulio, Bartolo, and Maria Teresa
Mascarello) have never bowed to the French custom
of cru or single- vineyard bottlings, let alone
the use of barriques. While Giulio moved away
from the negociant model and use of demijohns
(the standard for its time), little has changed
since this estate was born in 1918. The practice
of assembling ripe fruit from low yields in
different vineyards to create a single estate
Barolo is law and ensures wines of balance and
harmony. Under this Mascarello philosophy Barolo
is a wine of patience and there are no short
cuts. Barolo is not the wine of instant gratification
that changing palates are demanding. "No
Barrique, No Berlusconi" became Bartolo's
anthem. This man of unyielding conviction, who
inherited his father's passion for both the
grape and politics, passed away in March. Alas,
the Last of the Mohicans is no more. However,
like his father, he instilled these same values
and techniques in the next generation, Maria
Teresa, who now carries on the artisan's craft
and represents the future of Barolo's Old School.
She has been producing the wine under the watchful
eye of the master for over a decade. The door
is still open at Via Roma 15, and the tradition
is very much alive.
Read on below to learn about
the highly anticipated arrival of the 2000s
as well as an unprecedented offering of Mascarello's
1964, 1986, 1989, and 1990 vintages. While Mascarello
represents the extreme in traditional winemaking,
the importance of single- vineyard bottlings
cannot be ignored. Aldo Conterno's single-vineyard
bottlings of Cicala and Colonnello provide spellbinding
depth, but his traditionaly styled Gran Bussia
(sourced from multiple vineyards on Bussia)
is his crowning achievement. While exploring
Barolo it is important not to forget truly traditional
Barolo. I have included a detailed map of Barolo
outlining the communes and crus of the Langhe
hills so that you may begin to understand some
of the nuances influenced by soil type and commune.
This is a great way to experience Nebbiolo in
all its forms. Should you have additional questions
or want to purchase these wines, please call
Perry
Porricelli at 212.473.2323.
All the best,
Sergio Esposito
Tell
a Friend about IWM!
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Mascarello 2000
and More!
This is a unique and rare offering
for connoisseurs and aspiring collectors. In
a good year, Bartolo produces approximately
1,500 cases, of which only a small percentage
is exported to the States. Many of these wines
are well-cellared from Sergio's own collection.
For this limited offering, IWM is including
Mascarello wines unavailable anywhere else in
the US, including the 40-year-old 1964 bottling
as well as wines from the landmark 1989, 1990,
1997, 1998, 1999 and 2000 vintages. For the
younger wines, we encourage you to remain patient
and open the wines 10-30 years after their vintage
dates.
What To Expect
From Your Investment:
A while back, Sergio and Eric Asimov, chief
wine critic for The New York Times, travelled
to Italy and tasted the great wines of Bartolo
Mascarello. While there, Eric had the unique
opportunity to taste and write about the 1964
Mascarello
Barolo: "...an unforgettable wine full
of signature aromas of tar, truffles, tobacco,
and yet as fresh as a wine 30 years younger."
Typical Mascarello
Wine Notes:
A ten-year old Barolo
from Bartolo will typically carry the traditional
garnet red with highlights of orange bracing
the rim. A delicate and enticing bouquet of
old rose petals, violet, and licorice embrace
the nose. On the palate, there is serious structure
and exquisite balance with flavors of dried
cherries, tobacco, leather, tar, and tell-tale
truffle. Acidity and tannins are firmly braced
by noble structure. These are the trademarks
of a well-made, traditional Barolo from Bartolo
Mascarello!
*Please note that the super
ripe vintages of 1990, 1997, and 2000 will provide
even more fruit flavor and can be more accessible.
Contact our portfolio managers for more information
on these vintages or to find out when to uncork
these classics.
IWM's Legendary Barolos
of Mascarello
Bottles (750ml):
Mascarello
2000 Barolo $89.00
Mascarello
1999 Barolo $85.00
Mascarello
1998 Barolo $75.75
Mascarello
1997 Barolo $84.95
Mascarello
1996 Barolo $96.90
Mascarello
1995 Barolo $87.95
Legendary
Mascarello Barolo Sampler and Case
1995-2000 Mascarello
Barolo (1 of each) - $519.55
1995-2000 Mascarello
Barolo Case (2 of each) - $1024.86
(Note: limited availability,
sizes are 750ml)
Magnums
(1.5L):
Mascarello
2000 Barolo $198.00
Mascarello
1998 Barolo $155.00
Mascarello
1997 Barolo $189.95
Mascarello
1995 Barolo $198.00
Mascarello
1990 Barolo $690.00
Mascarello
1989 Barolo $690.00
Mascarello
1986 Barolo $690.00
Mascarello
1964 Barolo $989.00
Click
to order Mascarello by fax!
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Mascarello Dolcetto
The "little sweet one"
is well loved in Italy for its simplicity, low
acidity, consistent ripening ability (weeks
before Nebbiolo), and easy-going character of
intense grapey aromas and fleshy fruit flavors.
Recently renewed interest is giving it a new
reputation as fat, dark, and powerful. This
charming wine is so popular that the Piemontese
are said always to have at least 50% Dolcetto
running through their veins. Shedding the complexity
and depth of Barolo and Barbaresco, it is perfect
for the hot summer months.
Though Mascarello's Barolos
steal the limelight, the estate's Dolcettos
are held to the same exacting production standards
and provide excellence in everyday enjoyment.
Production is tiny since Nebbiolo claims three
of their five hectares and the remaining two
are shared with Barbera.
Mascarello
2003 Dolcetto $23.95 ($264.41 / case)
Bright ruby. Abundant fruit bathed in kirsch
on the nose, supported by darker earthy notes.
More full fruit on the palate with zippy acidity,
gentle tannin, and cherries tumbling onto a
long, healthy finish.
Click
here for more recent offers from IWM!
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Understanding
Cru Barolo
There are eleven villages,
townships or "communes" that make
up the Barolo
DOCG. However, there are five key zones
that you should be acquainted with that contribute
87% of the wine. These are La Morra, Barolo,
Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba, and
Monforte d'Alba. The soil types divide these
communes into two zones, the Central Valley
to the east made up of Tortonian soil (creates
more approachable wines with fragrance, softness,
and elegance), and the Serralunga Valley to
the west consisting of Helvetian soil (generally
creates long-lived, powerfully concentrated
wines). For a detailed map, click the image
at left (allow a moment for the PDF file to
open).
The physical elements of each
commune provide further characteristics that
distinguish it from the other four communes.
These qualities are even further segmented by
the microclimates where specific vineyards rest.
Until the early 1970's Barolo was for the most
part a non-cru wine. Barolo was generally the
ideal blend of grapes from: La Morra (for fragrance
and softness); Barolo (for grace and earthiness);
Castiglione Falletto (for boldness and richness);
Serralunga (for depth and power); and Monforte
(for concentration and structure).
However, thanks to the refined
efforts of Gaja,
Ratti, and Ceretto,
among others, the approach of single-vineyard
designations is now an ingrained practice for
Barolo much as it is for the great wines of
Burgundy. Due to the varied soil types and exposures
across vineyards there is a lot to discover.
The map illustrated here (click on the map at
left) lists some of the highly regarded vineyards
in the Barolo zone by soil type and is further
broken down by the "general" characteristics
of each commune. This generalization needs to
be used cautiously, as it is important to note
that all variables are not constant and generalizations
can oversimplify a complex subject. Individual
site altitude and exposure, viticulture and
vinification technique, clonal variation, producer
style, and vintage conditions can change these
characterisitics. Use this map and the tasting
case below as guidelines. Contact an IWM Portfolio
Manager for more specifics.
Vintage
Cru Barolo Sampler:
Prunotto
1985 Cannubi $224.00 (Barolo)
Giacomo
Conterno 1996 Monfortino $299.00 (Serralunga)
Aldo
Conterno 1990 Cicala $299.00 (Monforte)
Altare
1990 Arborina $225.00 (La Morra)
Marengo Marenda 1989 Cerequio $119.00 (La Morra)
Ceretto
1985 Bricco Rocche $219.00 (Castiglione)
Vintage Grand Cru Sampler (6): $1,385.00*
(1996
- 2001) Cru Barolo Sampler:
Bovio 1996 Barolo Vigna Gattera $60.21 (La
Morra)
Paolo
Conterno 1997 Barolo Ginestra $95.00 (Monforte)
Ceretto
1998 Barolo Bricco $139.00 (Castiglione)
Massolino
1999 Barolo Margheria $45.00 (Serralunga)
Scavino
2000 Barolo Cannubi $87.00 (Barolo)
Aldo
Conterno 2001 Barolo Colonello $89.00 (Monforte)
1996-2001 Cru Barolo Sampler (6): $515.21*
*Free delivery in Manhattan
Click
for more Barolo producers!
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Father's
Day Gift Ideas from IWM
IWM offers a wide range of
gifts at every price point, including wine clubs,
antique corkscrews, gift certificates, wine
gift baskets, tasting cases for the novice to
the connoisseur, educational books on wine and
food, and more! Click below to choose a gift
from our website or call 212.473.2323 for assistance
and recommendations. We are also happy to include
gift cards and individual Producer & Tasting
Notes to enhance your gifts.
IWM
GIFT IDEAS:
- Gift
Baskets
- Wine
Club Memberships
- Mixed
Tasting Cases
- Antique
Corkscrews
- Glassware
- Gift
Certificates
- Wine
Books
- Private
Wine Tastings
- Customized
Gifts
IWM's in-house Sommeliers and
Portfolio Managers are available to recommend
an appropriate gift or to help you design a
customized gift. Visit our Gift
Page or call 212.473.2323 to take care of
all your gift-giving needs!
Click
for IWM's Gift Center!
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Wine Dinners
at Babbo with IWM!
IWM is pleased to announce
our partnering effort with Babbo to bring vintage
Italian wine to the enthusiast. Vintage Babbo
is a new wine seminar and tasting series held
at our sister restaurant. Presented by Joe Bastianich
and Dave Lynch, these Monday evening events
are open to the public and feature rare wine
selections as well as a tasting menu designed
specially by Mario Batali. The tastings are
meditations on the history and evolution of
Italian wine and present the opportunity to
taste the rare, the classic, and the difficult-to-find
gems of the Boot - with food that magnifies
the enjoyment of each sip!
Italy
Takes on the World, Part "Deux":Taking
on the French
June 20th, $495 per person
The last time we had Italy take on the world,
we didn't actually put the Italians up against
their vaunted international competition. For
this tasting, we'll break Babbo house rules
and allow in some great reds from Bordeaux,
Burgundy, and elsewhere. How does cru Barolo
stack up against cru Burgundy? How about a Bordeaux-style
super-Tuscan versus actual Bordeaux? And for
that matter, how does Mario tackle a Frenchified
theme like this? Don't miss this one-of-a-kind
event!
HOW TO RESERVE
Contact Caroline Marshall at 917.715.3599 and
specify which tasting you would like to attend.
Click
for more on IWM Tasting Events!
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