and more:
• Mascarello's Impact on Fantino
• Barolo Sampler & Piemonte Case
• Tedeschi: An Introduction to Amarone

A Note from Sergio

Many of us are already caught up in the promise that the 2001 vintage has to offer from selected producers in Piemonte... and why not? I think it is the greatest vintage since 1996 in this historic string to grace the Langhe hills. The conditions Mother Nature provided offer the potential for classically structured Barolos with exceptional ageing potential; but every year that has contributed to the rare Piemonte streak (1996-2001) has had a unique impact on the Nebbiolo grape with different expressions through vineyard location and vinification. Today, I take a step back to the overshadowed vintage of 1999 and introduce seven Barolos from three estates with unique styles from Monforte d'Alba and La Morra.

These wines were held back to make the austere wines of the vintage more approachable upon release. Other producers’ 1999 Barolos came to market in 2003, as the market dictated, but Valentino, Bovio, and Fantino have just arrived! To accompany these Barolos I have included an additional 20+ wines from these estates, including cru selections, older vintages, Barberas, and Piemonte blends, like the pioneering effort of Bricco Manzoni. Bovio's single vineyard selections represent the richly aromatic, traditional side of La Morra, while Valentino's efforts have brought the densely structured side of Monforte into the modern era. However, to say that Valentino is "modern'' would be oversimplifying a complex debate. Try his 1979 Barolo and you will know that his wines have the ability to age 25 years, while expressing classic Barolo notes. The third estate, Alessandro & Gian Natale Fantino, is a relative newcomer: Alessandro brings ten years of winemaking experience under the late Bartolo Mascarello to the estate and their focus on Vigna dei Dardi, a historic vineyard. This is a winery to watch!

In addition to the many Barberas and Piemonte blends that accompany these 1999 Barolos, I am including an Amarone from Tedeschi in response to last week’s overwhelming reaction to Quintarelli and the magic of the dried grape. Tedeschi produces a spicy Amarone that is approachable today and is the perfect introduction to one of Italy’s hottest wines.

Read on below to learn more about this unique Piemonte offering. If you have any additional questions or should you like to purchase these wines, please feel free to call Perry Porricelli at 212.473.2323.

All the best,
Sergio Esposito

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Valentino's Modern Grace

Seated in the Manzoni Soprani area of Monforte d’Alba, Rocche dei Manzoni was originally established in the 1700’s. The estate as we know it today came to be in 1974 when Valentino Migliorini and his wife Jolanda snatched up the old winery and its prize vineyards. The couple began by cultivating the area’s traditional Dolcetto and Barbera along with their Barolo, and they quickly gained a reputation for their thoroughly unique wines. The great extraction and full-force use of barriques did not detract, however, from the elegance of the wine or the inherent character of Nebbiolo, so Valentino’s distinctive Barolos command respect from experts worldwide. Over the years, Migliorini planted new varietals and expanded his production, which today spans the original Barolo, Dolcetto, and Barbera, as well as a Pinot Noir, a Chardonnay, several blends that include both local and international varietals, a late harvest wine, and two sparkling wines.

All of the Barolos below will reward patience but are approachable now.

1999 Barolo Vigna Cappella Santo Stefano $64.95
1998 Barolo Vigna Cappella Santo Stefano $137.21 (1.5L)
Profound red color. Bold nose of fresh red fruit with deeper wild fruit undertones and obvious oak. Dense, concentrated palate with a soupcon of sweet dark berries over the strong tannins. The ‘cru dei cru’ of Valentino’s three cru Barolos.

1999 Barolo Vigna d’la Roul $57.95
1999 Barolo Vigna d’la Roul $125.00 (1.5L)
1998 Barolo Vigna d’la Roul $129.50 (1.5L)
Ruby with garnet shading. Bouquet of rose petals and red berries floating in a sweet liqueur. Oak quietly overlooks a pert palate of juicy fruit with veiled power. Distinct tannins and a long, refined finish. The most elegant of Valentino’s Barolos.

1999 Barolo Big ‘d Big $57.95
1999 Barolo Big ‘d Big $125.00 (1.5L)
1989 Barolo Big ‘d Big Riserva $198.00
Ruby red. Spring berries are augmented with sweet spices and lush coffee. Similar flavors are surrounded on the palate by oak tones. Intense, extracted, and persistent. The name says it all: Valentino’s biggest, most powerful wine.

1979 Barolo Riserva $175.00
Classic Barolo character and color. Still tight and dense, this old wine exemplifies the true nature of Monforte’s massive structure. The palate is intense, with strong tannins, great earthy flavors, and ample acid which all benefit from 6+ hours of decanting.

1998 Bricco Manzoni $29.95
1998 Bricco Manzoni $68.98 (1.5L)
The Bricco Manzoni appeared in 1976 and was among the first blends produced in the Langhe with Nebbiolo and Barbera. Intense red to garnet color. Roses and almond flowers. The playful Barbera (20%) sends a bolt of fresh acidity through the firm, round palate that distinctly shows Nebbiolo (80%). Well balanced, with moderate tannins.

1999 Barbera d’Alba Sorito Mosconi $32.95
A concentrated Barbera, very expressive on the nose and palate with oaky vanilla sensations. Spicy, full, and elegant with a warm texture.

Click for more modern style Barolo!

Bovio: Built to Last

For many world travelers, the name Gianfranco Bovio will call to mind restaurant Belvedere in Piemonte, which is famous for its breathtaking panoramic view of La Morra as well as its outstanding cuisine. But for the proprietor a world renowned restaurant was not enough. In 1977, just a few years after taking control of Belvedere, Gianfranco dove into a new project dedicated to rebuilding his father’s wine estate, which at that point comprised just three hectares of Nebbiolo and Dolcetto. He went on to purchase seven more hectares and enlisted the expertise of Walter Porasso, who still oversees every step of production with some aid from consultants Beppe Caviola and Federico Curtaz. Bovio’s project has been an unmistakable success, creating a wide range of wines that exemplify the terroir of La Morra. Bovio is now comprised of 10 hectares of crus in the prime slopes of Arborina, Gattera, and Rocchettevino. Here in La Morra with his respectful approach to Barolo, Bovio brings out the more feminine characteristics of Nebbiolo, typically displaying notes of earth, flowers, and elegance.

1999 Barolo Arborina $44.65
1999 Barolo Arborina $99.92 (1.5L)
1997 Barolo Arborina $68.00
More dignified and temperate than Bovio’s other Barolo, the Arborina typically releases dark red fruit tinged with anise and gentle hints of tar. The elegant palate is lively with pronounced tannins. Like all of Bovio’s bottlings, this delightful wine is a quintessential expression of the vineyard where it was born. Enjoy the approachable 1997 while you wait for the 1999 to come around.

1999 Barolo Vigna Gattera $44.65
1999 Barolo Vigna Gattera $99.92 (1.5L)
1997 Barolo Vigna Gattera $68.00
1996 Barolo Vigna Gattera $60.21
Bovio’s Barolo Gattera, which hails from a vineyard that is just over one hectare, is more austere and powerful than Gianfranco’s Arborina and Rocchettevino and has the ability to age longer. Here is a legendary three vintage vertical of this cru displaying the class of 1996, the ripeness of 1997, and the structure of 1999. Typical notes include garnet with orange tones that become more prominent with age. Wild cherries and more delicate fruit with floral overtones and musty underbrush. Minerals dance around anise on the complex palate, enveloped by prominent tannins.

1999 Barolo Rocchettevino $44.65
1999 Barolo Rocchettevino $99.92 (1.5L)
1997 Barolo Rocchettevino $68.71
1997 Barolo Rocchettevino $141.67 (1.5L)
This traditional style Barolo has the classic aromas of roses, cinnamon, and licorice. On the palate the flavors are greeted by more sweet spice, cherry fruit, and tar. Often viewed as a combination of the other two crus, the Rocchettevino is generally the most approachable of the three and provides a generous finish.

2000 Barbera Parussi $31.65
Ruby red. Hardy purple fruit with meaty innuendos. Zesty acidity shoots through the palate.

2001 Dolcetto Dabbene $16.72
Deep ruby color. Snappy aromas of classic Dolcetto fruit lead into a fleshy fruit palate with a surprising acidic zing.

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Mascarello's Impact on Fantino!

Alessandro Fantino spent ten years as winemaker for the legendary Bartolo Mascarello before starting his own small winery with his brother Gian Natale. The estate is the only one in the center of the old city at Monforte d’Alba, and the cellar, parts of which date as far back as the 1600’s, is a lovely sight worth visiting just for its aesthetic qualities. Their vineyards are limited to under 10 hectares contained in the Vigna dei Dardi site, which imparts an unusually clear rendition of specific vintages. Like Mascarello, the Fantino brothers are wholeheartedly dedicated to the traditions of the Langhe, and they harbor a profound respect for Mother Nature. Along with their classic Barolo, Barbera, and Rosso, they distinguish themselves with a passito wine (now known as ‘Nepas’) made from grapes that are dried on rush mats for three months, during which time the fruit undergoes a slight onset of grey mold.

1999 Barolo Vigna dei Dardi $47.95
Fine ruby red. Fresh herbs tickle the nose and cocoa powder stirs the senses. Pipe tobacco creeps through a prodigious pile of rich dark fruit on the palate. Full and elegant, with big, velvety tannins and a long finish.

1998 Barolo Vigna dei Dardi Riserva $49.99
Rich red color. A classic Barolo bouquet of dried rose buds and tar is joined by ripe black fruit and brushed with spice. Full, with sweet suggestions of eau de vie, ample tannins, and fresh overtones. Persistent finish. Will improve in the cellar.

1998 Nepas $51.00 (500ml)
1997 Nebbiolo Passito $65.62 (500ml)
Formerly known simply as ‘Nebbiolo Passito,’ this unconventional libation was dubbed Nepas with the 1998 vintage. Thick garnet color. Complex and concentrated, with silky chocolate and sweet dried fruit. Refined but prominent tannins and a long finish.

1999 Barbera d’Alba Vigna dei Dardi $16.50
Almost sweet jammy red berries flow out of the glass and onto the palate, where they soak into earth tones. Full and graceful.

2001 Rosso dei Dardi $16.50
Barbera, Nebbiolo & Freisa: Mission fig, plum, and mushroom.

Click for another great traditionalist of Barolo!

Barolo Sampler & Piemonte Case

Today, IWM is offering a Barolo sampler in both a six-pack and case package (2 of each). In addition, we have added an assorted case that captures an assortment of wines from these three featured estates. All options showcase the range Nebbiolo has across region (Monforte d’Alba and La Morra), vineyard (Dardi, Santo Stefano, Arborina, Gattera, etc), vintage, and producer style (traditonal and modern). It is truly a great educational experience for the enthusiast and the individual looking to understand Barolo.

SIX PACK SAMPLER:
Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1999 Barolo Santo Stefano
Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1999 Barolo Big 'd Big
Bovio 1999 Barolo Arborina
Bovio 1999 Barolo Gattera
Fantino 1999 Barolo Vigna dei Dardi
Fantino 1998 Barolo Vigna dei Dardi Riserva

IWM Barolo Six Pack (6): $310.14*
IWM Barolo Case Sampler (12): $612.28*
*Free delivery to NYC residents

ASSORTED CASE:
Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1999 Barolo Santo Stefano
Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1999 Barolo Big 'd Big
Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1999 Barolo d'la Roul
Rocche dei Manzoni di Valentino 1999 Barbera Sorito Mosconi
Bovio 1999 Barolo Rocchettevino
Bovio 1999 Barolo Arborina
Bovio 1997 Barolo Arborina
Bovio 1999 Barolo Gattera
Bovio 1997 Barolo Gattera
Fantino 1999 Barolo Vigna dei Dardi
Fantino 1998 Barolo Vigna dei Dardi Riserva
Fantino 1999 Barbera d'Alba Vigna dei Dardi

IWM Assorted Case Sampler (12): $579.35*
*Free delivery to NYC residents

Click here to order these samplers!

Tedeschi: An Introduction to Amarone

FRATELLI TEDESCHI
Last week, IWM introduced one of the great collector wines of the world from Giuseppe Quintarelli: his Amarone is unrivalled, but there are other greats in the Veneto and Amarone is a wine to experience. A great way to get started is with the wine of Tedeschi.

Nicolò Tedeschi saw great potential for grape growing in the Pedemonte zone of Valpolicella (not to be confused with the region of Piemonte). This respected community elder acquired a few small patches of land in 1824 and established a family tradition of superlative standards in both personal and professional matters. Almost a century later Riccardo Tedeschi turned more seriously to the development of quality in their wines and therefore purchased the vineyards of Monte Fontana and Monte Olmi, which he instinctively knew to be the best sites in the area. Nicolò and Riccardo’s descendants were fortunate enough to inherit their dignity and resolve, and these qualities are still manifest in the current owners of the estate. Today’s patriarch is Renzo Tedeschi, who oversees the operation and shares the work with his wife Bruna and their children Antonietta, Sabrina, and Riccardo. With 22 hectares of vineyards planted to classic local varietals, the Tedeschi estate respectfully follows traditional viticultural practices and methods of vinification, always bowing to Nature’s superior wisdom.

2000 Amarone $47.31
Corvina (30%), Corvinone (30%), and Rondinella (30%) filled out by Molinara, Rossignola, Oseleta, Negrara, and Dindarella. Blending grapes from the area’s top vineyard sites ensures perfect balance. Ruby red emitting sweet dark berries that capture the unique varietals. A touch of wood and spice on the ample palate. Great power and structure with a long, bitter finish.

2001 San Rocco Rosso (Ripasso) $19.80
The same blend as the Amarone with a drop of Sangiovese added, tweaked with a ‘ripasso’ through Recioto and Amarone marc. Bright ruby. Fresh red berries with undertones of dried fruit. Soft and fruity on the palate. Round, well structured, and persistent.

Click here for Quintarelli!