WineHomeWine ClubShopEye on italytastingAbout UsLinks

Send this page to a friend!
View All Weekly e-Letters
Join IWM's Wine Club

IWM e-Letter: April 1, 2005
The South's Approachable Quality

In this Issue:
• A Note from Sergio
• Basilicata: Basilisco and Paternoster
• Sicilia: Planeta and Ceuso

 

and more:
Sardegna: Capichera and Contini
• Campania: Molettieri and Feudi

• Puglia: Messapicus and Mille Una

A Note from Sergio

Over the past few weeks I have focused on wines of Northern and Central Italy; today as I leave for Italy, I am revisiting the South with an assorted case that provides an exploration in quality, style, and grape varietals from Basilicata, Campania, Sicilia, Sardegna, and Puglia.

Not too long ago this realm was known for producing bulk wine, as Sicilia and Puglia often competed for the largest annual production in Italy. However, the Italian territory with the most area under vine is shifting from bulk production to quality wine as farmers turn farmer- producers and a new field of talent from the likes of Antinori, Tachis, Cotarella, and Landi stakes its claim on the South's potential. However, there is also a gold rush mentality here, and with that comes abuse in many forms. As always, finding quality requires strict guidelines in selection, and we mustn't forget that there is much more to the South than just big reds. But the most important aspect of this renaissance of the South is that these wines are often more approachable in taste and price than my recent features from Montalcino and the Langhe. As a result, today’s assorted case features exceptional wines that are ready to drink today while your Barolos, Brunellos, Taurasi, Amarones, and Super Tuscans mature in the cellar.

Whether you are a seasoned oenophile or just beginning to explore, you will appreciate the range of the firmly structured Aglianico across region (Campania and Basilicata) and locally by producer (Basilisco's modern take as opposed to the more traditional and historic Paternoster approach). A visit to Sardegna provides insight into the influence of conquering countries on the island, with exceptional takes on Spain's Garnacha (here called Cannonau) and Vermentino (one of the best Italy has to offer). On the largest island of the Mediterranean, another winner from Planeta provides an enjoyable dram for the highly anticipated arrival of Spring. In Puglia, experience Zinfandel's cousin Primitivo and the ambit of the dominant Negroamaro in Salice Salentino and Copertino.

SOUTHERN ITALY'S ASSORTED CASE:
Basilisco 2001 Basilisco Aglianico $46.61
Paternoster 2001 Synthesi $16.50
Planeta 2003 Cerasuolo di Vittoria $24.20
Ceuso 2000 Custera $35.20
Ceuso 2003 Scurati $17.60
Capichera 2002 Assajé $40.70
Capichera 2003 Vermentino Classico $47.30
Contini 2001 Cannonau di Sardegna Inu Riserva $32.67
Molettieri 2002 Irpinia Rosso $16.50
Messapicus 1999 Copertino Riserva $14.85
Messapicus 1999 Salice Salentino $14.85
Mille Una 2001 Primitivo Majara $22.00

Assorted Case (one of each): $304.06
*Free delivery in Manhattan

In addition to the featured case, we have included below two great new arrivals from Feudi di San Gregorio, the bright Falanghina and the rich, spicy Rubrato. We are also reintroducing Don Anselmo and Molettieri's 1999 Taurasi Riserva - these wines are the exception to today's feature and should be aged.

Read on below to learn more about the wines and producers of Italy's South. To purchase these wines, please contact a Portfolio Manager at 212.473.2323.

All the best,
Sergio

Click here to order the assorted case by fax!

Basilicata: Basilisco and Paternoster

BASILISCO
Aglianico del Vulture is the wine scene in Basilicata. The poet Horace sang the praise of the wines from this appellation thousands of years ago, but only a few have succeeded in re-establishing this reputation. Paternoster is one of the two landmark institutions that have paved the way in this ancient and volcanic land built around the extinct Mount Vulture. Now a third generation of talent has emerged, headed by Elena Fucci and Michele Cutolo’s Basilisco. It is here in Barile, the once flourishing barrel producing mecca of a past era, that the passionate Cutolo produces a limited number of bottlings from his 8 hectares of vines. With respected wine consultant Lorenzo Landi now on hand, the grapes generally receive late harvest treatment and new oak, producing wines of opulence and balance.

Basilisco 2001 Basilisco Aglianico $46.61
Deep dark ruby with purple reflections. Aromas of ripe red and black fruit extend on the palate to be greeted by flavors of tobacco, pencil lead, minerals, and a touch of vanilla. Highly structured and balanced, displaying a weave of finesse and elegant tannicity.

PATERNOSTER
This historic estate has produced outstanding Aglianico for three generations. Giuseppe Paternoster has always generously extended his knowledge to the entire area and deserves respect for having put the remote appellation of Aglianico del Vulture on the map. Now Vito Paternoster is the leading force, with his father actively developing an important program to replant the vineyards. Paternoster is famous for two different - but equally important - expressions of Aglianico, each marking the identity of a generation: the Rotondo is an innovative modern wine and the Don Anselmo more traditional but just as rewarding.

Paternoster 2001 Synthesi $16.50
This ‘Synthesis’ of Aglianico’s strength and a delicate method of vinification presents syrupy purple and black fruit with bitter chocolate, earthy truffles, sweet spice, and mineral. Balanced tannins support this resolute wine.

Paternoster 1999 Don Anselmo $49.50
Named for Vito’s grandfather and the founder of the Paternoster estate, Don Anselmo is an elegant expression of Aglianico that still retains the variety’s intrinsic power. Murky sensations of tar, bitter chocolate, and smoke surround dark berries. Strong and dense yet still fresh, this wine will improve in the cellar for at least another decade.

Click to read about more producers from Basilicata!

Sicilia: Planeta and Ceuso

PLANETA
IWM featured Planeta's international varietals a few months back, and today we present a recent arrival, their 2003 Cerasuolo, which represents Planeta's contribution to promoting traditional Sicilian wines. The private estate of Diego Planeta (head of the giant Settesoli) is run by his daughter Francesca and nephew Alessio. Their internationally-styled production, with a focus on pure varietal wines, has captivated wine enthusiasts and critics worldwide. The four jewels of Planeta are four separate wineries (Sambuca di Sicilia, Menfi, Noto, and Vittoria) with 350 hectares of vineyards set in the prime areas of Sicilia.

Planeta 2003 Cerasuolo di Vittoria $24.20
Nero d’Avola and Frappato make up one of Sicilia’s most historic DOC wines. Red streaked with purple. On the nose, strawberry jam is piled high with cherries, figs, and ginger. Fresh with good tannic backbone, it tarries on the palate. A delightful and quintessential representation of Cerasuolo that recalls the land in every sip.

CEUSO
The Alcamo zone in western Sicilia is well known for white wine production, but to plant black grapes here took foresight and resolution, and the Melia brothers were rich in both. Giuseppe and Vincenzo calculated each aspect of the terroir and found it ideal for growing fruit destined to make big red wines; with great care they planted their 25.5 hectares with varietals like Nero d’Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Every step of production, both in the vineyard and in the cellar, demonstrates the best of artisanal winemaking, and the results are shooting Ceuso to the top of Sicilia’s quality wine scene.

Ceuso 2003 Scurati $17.60
The supple Nero d’Avola stands alone, exhibiting its native Sicilian character with panache. Bright ruby presents purple and black fruit underscored by dense bitter cocoa. Fleshy, with smooth tannins and a lingering finish.

Ceuso 2000 Custera $35.20
Deep ruby fading to garnet. Nero d’Avola (50%) provides the body of the wine and lends a distinct Sicilian personality; Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) offers richness and extraction; and Merlot (20%) adds a voluptuous softness. Blackcurrant and raspberry adorned with flowers and underpinnings of smoky leather. Bold and full-bodied, with plump tannins and a long finish.

Click to read more on Sicilia and Planeta!

Sardegna: Capichera and Contini

CAPICHERA
The Capichera estate was born in the 1920’s as a country home where the Ragnedda family made just enough wine to satisfy their own needs. The area, near Arzachena on the northern tip of Sardegna, was already known for its ideal grape-growing terroir, but not until the 70’s did the family plant more extensive vineyards throughout their 60 hectares and build a modern cellar. This preparation paid off in the following decade, when the first Capichera Vermentino was released and immediately raised a jealous fervor in its most famous competitors. Brothers Fabrizio and Mario Ragnedda now run the estate together, striving to optimize quality and thus earn Capichera a place among Italy’s most elite producers.

Capichera 2002 Assajé $40.70
Pure Carmignano. Intense ruby red with purple flecks releasing fresh aromas of juicy red berries and dried rose petals with a sprinkle of spice. Soft and fleshy on the palate, with spice dancing over black currants, ripe cherries, and oak. A strong body steeped in rustic elegance.

Capichera 2003 Vermentino Classico $47.30
Vermentino aged in both stainless steel and barriques. Pale yellow with gold overtones. Glycerine seeps from the glass, carrying with it fresh herbs, minerals, and soft tropical fruit. Complex, it envelops the mouth in ambrosia as a streak of acidity opens the door for more tropical sensations.

ATTILIO CONTINI
When Jaume II “the Just” of Aragon drove the Pisan out of Sardegna in the 14th century, his countrymen added a Spanish zest to the island’s unique culture. The Spaniards discovered that Sardegna’s dry, windy climate was ideal for the ‘Canonazo’ or Cannonau vines they cultivated at home, and the natives quickly adopted the grape as their own. Founded in 1898, Contini is among the oldest and most prestigious wineries in Sardegna. Known for classic Vernaccia early on and winning Milan’s gold medal in 1912, the range now includes modern-style whites and indigenous reds.

Contini 2001 Cannonau Inu Riserva $32.67
Known elsewhere as Granaxa, Garnacha, or Grenache, Cannonau is Sardegna’s most widely planted varietal. Ruby red dissolving to garnet. Ripe plums, cherries, and wild blackberries spill out of the glass. Intense and voluptuous on the palate, with dense tannins rolling onto a long finish.

Click to discover another star from Sardegna!

Campania: Molettieri and Feudi

SALVATORE MOLETTIERI
The Molettieri family has long passed their small plot of land and their wisdom from father to son, giving the current generation a solid base on which to build quality production. It was only in 1995, however, that Salvatore and his son Giacomo started bottling their own wine rather than selling the grapes; they have not faltered since in their swift ascent through the ranks to become one of Campania's top producers. ‘Cinque Querce,’ in the hills of Irpinia, is considered one of the best sites for the native Aglianico di Taurasi (“the Nebbiolo of the South”) given its argillous-calcareous soil and drastic temperature fluctuations from day to night.

Molettieri 2002 Irpinia Rosso ‘Ischia Piana’ $16.50
Ruby with bright violet highlights. Fresh black and purple fruit on the nose is joined in the mouth by underbrush and coffee beans. Notable tannins, full body, and a touch of oak flowing into a long finish. An approachable wine to enjoy while the Taurasi ages in the cellar.

Molettieri 1999 Taurasi Riserva $57.75
From the great Taurasi vintage of 1999, this bottle pours a deep ruby red. Delicate aromas of red fruit and spices are followed by a warm, meaty palate with leather and a dash of mint. Austere yet generous, with notable tannins, good balance, and a persistent finish. Like Barolo, this wine will reward patience.

FEUDI DI SAN GREGORIO
Here, in the shadows of Mount Vesuvius where the city of Pompeii and its ancient vineyards lay two millennia ago, the imposing Feudi di San Gregorio estate boasts state-of-the-art facilities. With esteemed enologist Riccardo Cotarella on hand, the wines focus on the antiquity of the area, displaying the elegance of traditional Italian wines while supporting a modern tone that infuses the microclimate’s unique altitude and soil. The legendary volcano eruption left a sandstone and marl soil laden with mineral-rich deposits of volcanic ash that impart distinctive aromas and flavors to the grapes. As a result, Feudi di San Gregorio has received international high scores for both its whites and reds that are made from the native Aglianico, Fiano, and Greco in various styles. Featured today are the fresh vintages of Feudi's everyday wines, which are delicious and represent an excellent value.

Feudi di San Gregorio 2004 Falanghina $13.20
Pale yellow with green highlights. Floral aromas with tart citrus, honeyed tropical fruit, and stony tones. Bright acidity and medium-full body, with minerals blanketing the dry palate.

Feudi di San Gregorio 2002 Rubrato $14.30
Purple ink permeates the ruby red. Abundant crushed red fruit exudes pepper, minerals, tobacco leaves, and just a hint of toasty vanilla. Rich and flavorful, with balanced acidity and tannins giving a supple feel.

Click here for the cult wines of Campania!

 

Puglia: Messapicus and Mille Una

MESSAPICUS
Messapicus is one of the elite estates pushing to replace quantity with quality in Puglia’s wine production. They present excellent examples of traditional regional wines, including Copertino and the more conspicuous Salice Salentino, both made from blends in which Negroamaro dominates. This indigenous grape brings deep color to wines and introduces a pleasant hint of bitterness. Messapicus’ bottlings are distinctly southern, with the heat and warmth of the area shining through in every glass.

Messapicus 1999 Copertino Riserva $14.85
Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera, Montepulciano, and Sangiovese from a DOC zone just north of Salice Salentino. Deep ruby suggesting blackberries and raspberries. Black figs and chewy licorice expand in the mouth as balanced tannins support the full body.

Messapicus 1999 Salice Salentino $14.85
Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera. Purple fruit and flowers dominate, with generous doses of spice throughout. Smooth and ripe with modest tannins and a full body.

MILLE UNA
Mille Una was born in 2001 when Dario Cavallo, Michele Schifone, Bruno de Conciliis, and Saverio Petrilli joined forces and acquired 12 hectares in the heart of Tarantino. Reinforcing these holdings by leasing another 18 ha, the four have established Mille Una as one of Puglia’s top producers and a leading force in the region’s transition from bulk wine production to quality bottlings. Their line exclusively comprises pure varietal wines from native grapes: four of the bottlings are Primitivo, the spicy grape believed to be the ancestor of Zinfandel, and the last is Negroamaro, the most prominent of Puglia’s indigenous varietals.

Mille Una 2001 Primitivo Majara $22.00
A full, distinctly southern wine with bold red berries dipped in cocoa. Rich and structured.

Click to read Daniel Thomases' article on Puglia's Uva di Troia!

Store Information:
Italian Wine Merchants
108 East 16th Street
New York, NY 10003
Phone: 212.473.2323
Fax: 212.473.1952
sergio@italianwinemerchant.com

© 1999 Italian Wine Merchants All rights reserved.

Click to learn more about Italian wine!


Note: Prices and availability are subject to change.
IWM is not responsible for typographical errors.