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IWM
e-Letter: April 1, 2005
The South's Approachable
Quality |
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this Issue:
• A
Note from Sergio
• Basilicata: Basilisco and Paternoster
• Sicilia: Planeta and Ceuso
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and
more:
• Sardegna:
Capichera and Contini
• Campania: Molettieri and Feudi
• Puglia: Messapicus and Mille Una
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A
Note from Sergio
Over
the past few weeks I have focused on wines
of Northern and Central Italy; today as
I leave for Italy, I am revisiting the
South with an assorted case that provides
an exploration in quality, style, and grape
varietals from Basilicata, Campania, Sicilia,
Sardegna, and Puglia.
Not too long ago this realm
was known for producing bulk wine, as Sicilia
and Puglia
often competed for the largest annual production
in Italy. However, the Italian territory
with the most area under vine is shifting
from bulk production to quality wine as farmers
turn farmer- producers and a new field of
talent from the likes of Antinori, Tachis,
Cotarella, and Landi stakes its claim on
the South's potential. However, there is
also a gold rush mentality here, and with
that comes abuse in many forms. As always,
finding quality requires strict guidelines
in selection, and we mustn't forget that
there is much more to the South than just
big reds. But the most important aspect of
this renaissance of the South is that these
wines are often more approachable in taste
and price than my recent features from Montalcino and the Langhe. As a result, today’s
assorted case features exceptional wines
that are ready to drink today while your
Barolos, Brunellos, Taurasi, Amarones, and
Super Tuscans mature in the cellar.
Whether you are a seasoned oenophile or
just beginning to explore, you will appreciate
the range of the firmly structured Aglianico
across region (Campania and Basilicata) and
locally by producer (Basilisco's modern take
as opposed to the more traditional and historic
Paternoster approach). A visit to Sardegna
provides insight into the influence of conquering
countries on the island, with exceptional
takes on Spain's Garnacha (here called Cannonau)
and Vermentino (one of the best Italy has
to offer). On the largest island of the Mediterranean,
another winner from Planeta provides an enjoyable
dram for the highly anticipated arrival of
Spring. In Puglia, experience Zinfandel's
cousin Primitivo and the ambit of the dominant
Negroamaro in Salice Salentino and Copertino.
SOUTHERN ITALY'S ASSORTED CASE:
Basilisco 2001 Basilisco Aglianico $46.61
Paternoster 2001 Synthesi $16.50
Planeta 2003 Cerasuolo di Vittoria $24.20
Ceuso 2000 Custera $35.20
Ceuso 2003 Scurati $17.60
Capichera 2002 Assajé $40.70
Capichera 2003 Vermentino Classico $47.30
Contini 2001 Cannonau di Sardegna Inu Riserva
$32.67
Molettieri 2002 Irpinia Rosso $16.50
Messapicus 1999 Copertino Riserva $14.85
Messapicus 1999 Salice Salentino $14.85
Mille
Una 2001 Primitivo Majara $22.00
Assorted Case (one
of each): $304.06
*Free delivery in Manhattan
In addition to the featured case, we have
included below two great new arrivals from
Feudi di San Gregorio, the bright Falanghina
and the rich, spicy Rubrato. We are also
reintroducing Don Anselmo and Molettieri's
1999 Taurasi Riserva - these wines are the
exception to today's feature and should be
aged.
Read on below to learn more about the wines
and producers of Italy's South. To purchase
these wines, please contact
a Portfolio Manager at 212.473.2323.
All the best,
Sergio
Click
here to order the assorted case by fax!
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Basilicata:
Basilisco and Paternoster
BASILISCO
Aglianico del Vulture is the wine scene in
Basilicata. The poet Horace sang the praise
of the wines from this appellation thousands
of years ago, but only a few have succeeded
in re-establishing this reputation. Paternoster
is one of the two landmark institutions
that have paved the way in this ancient
and volcanic land built around the extinct
Mount Vulture. Now a third generation of
talent has emerged, headed by Elena Fucci
and Michele Cutolo’s Basilisco. It
is here in Barile, the once flourishing
barrel producing mecca of a past era, that
the passionate Cutolo produces a limited
number of bottlings from his 8 hectares
of vines. With respected wine consultant
Lorenzo Landi now on hand, the grapes generally
receive late harvest treatment and new
oak, producing wines of opulence and balance.
Basilisco 2001 Basilisco Aglianico $46.61
Deep dark ruby with purple reflections. Aromas
of ripe red and black fruit extend on the
palate to be greeted by flavors of tobacco,
pencil lead, minerals, and a touch of vanilla.
Highly structured and balanced, displaying
a weave of finesse and elegant tannicity.
PATERNOSTER
This historic estate has produced outstanding
Aglianico for three generations. Giuseppe
Paternoster has always generously extended
his knowledge to the entire area and deserves
respect for having put the remote appellation
of Aglianico del Vulture on the map. Now
Vito Paternoster is the leading force,
with his father actively developing an
important program to replant the vineyards.
Paternoster is famous for two different
- but equally important - expressions of
Aglianico, each marking the identity of
a generation: the Rotondo is an innovative
modern wine and the Don Anselmo more traditional
but just as rewarding.
Paternoster 2001 Synthesi $16.50
This ‘Synthesis’ of Aglianico’s
strength and a delicate method of vinification
presents syrupy purple and black fruit with
bitter chocolate, earthy truffles, sweet
spice, and mineral. Balanced tannins support
this resolute wine.
Paternoster 1999 Don Anselmo $49.50
Named for Vito’s grandfather and the
founder of the Paternoster estate, Don Anselmo
is an elegant expression of Aglianico that
still retains the variety’s intrinsic
power. Murky sensations of tar, bitter chocolate,
and smoke surround dark berries. Strong and
dense yet still fresh, this wine will improve
in the cellar for at least another decade.
Click
to read about more producers from Basilicata!
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Sicilia: Planeta
and Ceuso
PLANETA
IWM featured Planeta's international varietals
a few months back, and today we present a recent
arrival, their 2003 Cerasuolo, which represents
Planeta's contribution to promoting traditional
Sicilian wines. The private estate of Diego
Planeta (head of the giant Settesoli) is run
by his daughter Francesca and nephew Alessio.
Their internationally-styled production, with
a focus on pure varietal wines, has captivated
wine enthusiasts and critics worldwide. The
four jewels of Planeta are four separate wineries
(Sambuca di Sicilia, Menfi, Noto, and Vittoria)
with 350 hectares of vineyards set in the prime
areas of Sicilia.
Planeta 2003 Cerasuolo di Vittoria $24.20
Nero d’Avola and Frappato make up one of
Sicilia’s most historic DOC wines. Red
streaked with purple. On the nose, strawberry
jam is piled high with cherries, figs, and ginger.
Fresh with good tannic backbone, it tarries on
the palate. A delightful and quintessential representation
of Cerasuolo that recalls the land in every sip.
CEUSO
The Alcamo zone in western Sicilia is well known
for white wine production, but to plant black
grapes here took foresight and resolution,
and the Melia brothers were rich in both. Giuseppe
and Vincenzo calculated each aspect of the
terroir and found it ideal for growing fruit
destined to make big red wines; with great
care they planted their 25.5 hectares with
varietals like Nero d’Avola, Cabernet
Sauvignon, and Merlot. Every step of production,
both in the vineyard and in the cellar, demonstrates
the best of artisanal winemaking, and the results
are shooting Ceuso to the top of Sicilia’s
quality wine scene.
Ceuso 2003 Scurati $17.60
The supple Nero d’Avola stands alone, exhibiting
its native Sicilian character with panache. Bright
ruby presents purple and black fruit underscored
by dense bitter cocoa. Fleshy, with smooth tannins
and a lingering finish.
Ceuso 2000 Custera $35.20
Deep ruby fading to garnet. Nero d’Avola
(50%) provides the body of the wine and lends
a distinct Sicilian personality; Cabernet Sauvignon
(30%) offers richness and extraction; and Merlot
(20%) adds a voluptuous softness. Blackcurrant
and raspberry adorned with flowers and underpinnings
of smoky leather. Bold and full-bodied, with
plump tannins and a long finish.
Click
to read more on Sicilia and Planeta!
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Sardegna:
Capichera and Contini
CAPICHERA
The Capichera estate was born in the 1920’s
as a country home where the Ragnedda family
made just enough wine to satisfy their own
needs. The area, near Arzachena on the northern
tip of Sardegna, was already known for its
ideal grape-growing terroir, but not until
the 70’s did the family plant more
extensive vineyards throughout their 60 hectares
and build a modern cellar. This preparation
paid off in the following decade, when the
first Capichera Vermentino was released and
immediately raised a jealous fervor in its
most famous competitors. Brothers Fabrizio
and Mario Ragnedda now run the estate together,
striving to optimize quality and thus earn
Capichera a place among Italy’s most
elite producers.
Capichera 2002 Assajé $40.70
Pure Carmignano. Intense ruby red with purple
flecks releasing fresh aromas of juicy
red berries and dried rose petals with
a sprinkle of spice. Soft and fleshy on
the palate, with spice dancing over black
currants, ripe cherries, and oak. A strong
body steeped in rustic elegance.
Capichera 2003 Vermentino Classico $47.30
Vermentino aged in both stainless steel and
barriques. Pale yellow with gold overtones.
Glycerine seeps from the glass, carrying
with it fresh herbs, minerals, and soft
tropical fruit. Complex, it envelops the
mouth in ambrosia as a streak of acidity
opens the door for more tropical sensations.
ATTILIO CONTINI
When Jaume II “the Just” of Aragon
drove the Pisan out of Sardegna in the 14th
century, his countrymen added a Spanish zest
to the island’s unique culture. The
Spaniards discovered that Sardegna’s
dry, windy climate was ideal for the ‘Canonazo’ or
Cannonau vines they cultivated at home, and
the natives quickly adopted the grape as
their own. Founded in 1898, Contini is among
the oldest and most prestigious wineries
in Sardegna. Known for classic Vernaccia
early on and winning Milan’s gold medal
in 1912, the range now includes modern-style
whites and indigenous reds.
Contini 2001 Cannonau Inu Riserva $32.67
Known elsewhere as Granaxa, Garnacha, or
Grenache, Cannonau is Sardegna’s
most widely planted varietal. Ruby red
dissolving to garnet. Ripe plums, cherries,
and wild blackberries spill out of the
glass. Intense and voluptuous on the palate,
with dense tannins rolling onto a long
finish.
Click
to discover another star from Sardegna!
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Campania:
Molettieri and Feudi
SALVATORE MOLETTIERI
The Molettieri family has long passed their small
plot of land and their wisdom from father
to son, giving the current generation a solid
base on which to build quality production.
It was only in 1995, however, that Salvatore
and his son Giacomo started bottling their
own wine rather than selling the grapes;
they have not faltered since in their swift
ascent through the ranks to become one of
Campania's top producers. ‘Cinque Querce,’ in
the hills of Irpinia, is considered one of
the best sites for the native Aglianico di
Taurasi (“the Nebbiolo of the South”)
given its argillous-calcareous soil and drastic
temperature fluctuations from day to night.
Molettieri 2002 Irpinia Rosso ‘Ischia
Piana’ $16.50
Ruby with bright violet highlights. Fresh black
and purple fruit on the nose is joined in the
mouth by underbrush and coffee beans. Notable
tannins, full body, and a touch of oak flowing
into a long finish. An approachable wine to enjoy
while the Taurasi ages in the cellar.
Molettieri 1999 Taurasi Riserva $57.75
From the great Taurasi vintage of 1999, this
bottle pours a deep ruby red. Delicate aromas
of red fruit and spices are followed by a warm,
meaty palate with leather and a dash of mint.
Austere yet generous, with notable tannins,
good balance, and a persistent finish. Like
Barolo, this wine will reward patience.
FEUDI DI SAN GREGORIO
Here, in the shadows of Mount Vesuvius where
the city of Pompeii and its ancient vineyards
lay two millennia ago, the imposing Feudi
di San Gregorio estate boasts state-of-the-art
facilities. With esteemed enologist Riccardo
Cotarella on hand, the wines focus on the antiquity
of the area, displaying the elegance of traditional
Italian wines while supporting a modern tone
that infuses the microclimate’s unique
altitude and soil. The legendary volcano eruption
left a sandstone and marl soil laden with mineral-rich
deposits of volcanic ash that impart distinctive
aromas and flavors to the grapes. As a result,
Feudi di San Gregorio has received international
high scores for both its whites and reds that
are made from the native Aglianico, Fiano,
and Greco in various styles. Featured today
are the fresh vintages of Feudi's everyday
wines, which are delicious and represent an
excellent value.
Feudi
di San Gregorio 2004 Falanghina $13.20
Pale yellow with green highlights. Floral aromas
with tart citrus, honeyed tropical fruit, and
stony tones. Bright acidity and medium-full
body, with minerals blanketing the dry palate.
Feudi
di San Gregorio 2002 Rubrato $14.30
Purple ink permeates the ruby red. Abundant crushed
red fruit exudes pepper, minerals, tobacco
leaves, and just a hint of toasty vanilla.
Rich and flavorful, with balanced acidity and
tannins giving a supple feel.
Click
here for the cult wines of Campania!
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Puglia: Messapicus
and Mille Una
MESSAPICUS
Messapicus is one of the elite estates pushing
to replace quantity with quality in Puglia’s
wine production. They present excellent
examples of traditional regional wines,
including Copertino and the more conspicuous
Salice Salentino, both made from blends
in which Negroamaro dominates. This indigenous
grape brings deep color to wines and
introduces a pleasant hint of bitterness.
Messapicus’ bottlings are distinctly
southern, with the heat and warmth of
the area shining through in every glass.
Messapicus 1999 Copertino Riserva $14.85
Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera, Montepulciano,
and Sangiovese from a DOC zone just north
of Salice Salentino. Deep ruby suggesting
blackberries and raspberries. Black figs
and chewy licorice expand in the mouth
as balanced tannins support the full body.
Messapicus 1999 Salice Salentino $14.85
Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera. Purple fruit
and flowers dominate, with generous doses
of spice throughout. Smooth and ripe with
modest tannins and a full body.
MILLE UNA
Mille
Una was born in 2001 when Dario Cavallo,
Michele Schifone, Bruno de Conciliis, and
Saverio Petrilli joined forces and acquired
12 hectares in the heart of Tarantino.
Reinforcing these holdings by leasing another
18 ha, the four have established Mille
Una as one of Puglia’s top producers
and a leading force in the region’s
transition from bulk wine production to
quality bottlings. Their line exclusively
comprises pure varietal wines from native
grapes: four of the bottlings are Primitivo,
the spicy grape believed to be the ancestor
of Zinfandel, and the last is Negroamaro,
the most prominent of Puglia’s indigenous
varietals.
Mille
Una 2001 Primitivo Majara $22.00
A full, distinctly southern wine with bold
red berries dipped in cocoa. Rich and structured.
Click
to read Daniel Thomases' article on
Puglia's Uva di Troia!
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