and more:
• 1997 Brunello di Montalcino
• Collectible 1997 Super Tuscans
• More 1997 Super Tuscans

A Note from Sergio

Whenever I attend a tasting, I'm reminded of the substantial difference between the modern way of sampling wine and the way I was taught.

Here in America, tastings are all the rage; most people, enthusiasts or not, have attended at least one. The big industry-sponsored events take place in cold, vast rooms packed with purple-lipped masses lining up for their turn to expel the 250th gulp of the day into the communal spittoon. The participants pack their notebooks with pages full of observations and judgments. "A tannic monster, clumsy and bitter." "Tremendous dimension, supple and full-bodied, with a terrific fleshy finish." "Oak, clove cigarette, rich hints of concentrated pineapple juice and Egyptian musk, high drinkability." They're determined to master as many wines as they can, to stumble out of the auditorium accomplished oenophiles, able to size up a wine within seconds and move on to the next one.

Needless to say, I try not to attend those gatherings. Sometimes I'll make my way to an educational tasting, which tends to be more civilized: you sit at a table with a few glasses in front of you and some food on a plate, and you can breathe as you drink the wine. You have space and time to reflect on what you're consuming. Maybe you learn a little bit of history.

But ultimately, I understand a wine best when I drink it the way I was taught: at the table with my friends and family. In my home, wine isn't doled out gingerly or swirled and spat. We don't analyze its mid-palate. Wine isn't reserved for people over the age of 21 or haughty connoisseurs, for people with deep pockets or a vast knowledge of varietals. It's for everyone, all the time. It's part of Italian culture and it is my culture. A glass of wine doesn't stir up our insecurities or competitive natures. Its presence brings joy, not anxiety. What I have learned from growing up in Italy and what I learn anew every time I return is that you can comprehend a wine much more fully simply by restraining yourself from judging it; just drink it. I guarantee you'll find what you're looking for if you don't look so hard.

This week, I'm offering a group of wines that are often poured at tastings: those from 1997, the most highly sought Italian vintage of its decade. If you want to get a real sense of these fantastic, hard-to-find wines, drink them as they were meant to be drunk: cancel your evening appointments, put out a plate of salumi and cheese, sit back with people you care about, and simply enjoy yourself.

My best,
Sergio Esposito

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1997 Barbaresco and Langhe Rosso

Roagna – I Paglieri 1997 Barbaresco Pajé $44.95*
Four generations of the Roagna family have crafted wines at the I Paglieri estate. Today, Alfredo Roagna runs the winery with the help of his wife Luigina and son Luca. Roagna adheres to an ultra-traditional style of winemaking, concentrating on the varietal character and terroir, and offering his products at reasonable prices. This classic Barbaresco from the Pajé site exemplifies the estate style in the way it firmly conveys the singular character of the Nebbiolo grape. Equally important is the way that the vineyard brings out macho tannins yet also shares in the finesse found in Asili and Rabajà.

Roagna – I Paglieri 1997 Barbaresco Crichët Pajé $59.95*
È l’espressione massima della nostra cantina, è tradizione allo stato puro—“It is the greatest expression of our estate, it is tradition in its purest form,” is the Roagnas’ description of their Barbaresco Crichët Pajé. The wine was created when Roagna sought to design a wine that went a step beyond the excellence of the riserva. This superlative bottling is made only in the best vintages—on average, just one or two years in a decade will meet Roagna’s strict standards—and production is limited to 400 cases. The huge, strong tannins imposed by the Pajé vineyard epitomize the traditional, age worthy expression of Nebbiolo. The wine’s character and structure are nurtured by its unusually long 75-day maceration—a process that prepares it to age for decades to come.

Gaja 1997 Sorì San Lorenzo $1,195.00 (1.5L)*
Perhaps the most influential individual in Italian wines over the last 30 years has been Angelo Gaja. In a relentless pursuit to show off the best of Italy's cellars, Angelo has canvassed the globe, and his exhaustive, door-to-door campaign has been a raging success. The world now knows the greatness of Barbaresco and Barolo, especially those bottles with his simple, black-and-white label: the Gaja name embodies world-class quality. From grapes grown in the Secondine vineyard on the sorì (south-facing hillside) named for the patron saint of Alba. Of Gaja's three cru Barbarescos (now actually IGT wines since he adds a drop of Barbera), this is the most concentrated and powerful, providing exceptional aging potential. Fresh, spicy layers of intense dark fruit sink deep into the palate. Strong tannins are in excellent balance with an acidic dart, running far into the commanding finish.

Gaja 1997 Sperss $149.00 (375ml)
The name means “nostalgia” in local dialect and refers to a particular vineyard in the Marenca-Rivetta site in Serralunga where the Gaja family had purchased grapes until 1961. It was at this point that the family began producing wines exclusively from their own vineyards, and a series of changes began to unfold that would have a profound impact on Piemonte wines. As the estate grew and developed, Angelo coveted the top-quality fruit they had found here before and bought the plot in 1988. As with his other wines, he wished to improve poor vintages and in 1996 began adding 6% Barbera to the Nebbiolo, forfeiting the Barolo designation in order to create the product he had envisioned. Huge, classic Barolo characteristics. Exploding with flavor. Uncommon complexity and stature, with full body, firm tannins, and the stern overlying countenance typical of Serralunga wines.

Gaja 1997 Darmagi $108.24 (375ml)
Meaning “what a pity” in the Piemontese dialect, “Darmagi” is what Angelo’s grandfather sighed every time he passed the hillside vineyard where Angelo ripped out old Nebbiolo vines and replaced them with the internationally acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignon. But Angelo’s gamble worked... again! Cabernet Sauvignon (95%), Merlot (3%), and Cabernet Franc (2%). Concentrated on the nose and palate, with expansive and complex layers. This beautiful wine marries the eminent terroir of Piemonte with the distinct personalities of the international grapes. Velvety tannins and a persistent finish.

Click for more Olympic wines of Piemonte!

1997 Barolo

Aldo Conterno 1997 Barolo ‘Bussia Soprana’ $67.50*
For more than five generations the Conterno family has taken on the unstable conditions of the Langhe hills, becoming a staple in the heritage of Piemonte Barolo. In the early sixties, Aldo and his brother, the late Giovanni Conterno, worked with their father at the Giacomo Conterno estate to create some of the most long-lived and highly regarded Barolos. However, with a split in views over the styles of Barolo, Aldo left the unwavering traditionalist Giovanni at their father's cellar in 1969 and founded the "Favot" cellar. From Bussia Soprana in Monforte d'Alba. Three years in Slavonian oak are followed by twelve months in bottle before release. Classic floral aromas lead into a full-bodied palate.

Aldo Conterno 1997 Barolo ‘Cicala’ $119.00*
Aldo’s second “cru” from Bussia Soprana. Following the same aging program as the Barolo ‘Bussia Soprana,’ this is the most tannic of Aldo’s three cru Barolos. The potent nose sings with signature Nebbiolo flavors of dried roses, underbrush, lead, and cherries. Thickly textured with layered complexity.

Aldo Conterno 1997 Barolo Riserva Granbussia $187.50*
Giacomo Conterno’s Monfortino Riserva and Aldo Conterno’s Granbussia Riserva are perhaps the two greatest examples of Barolo produced. This is the estate’s special reserve bottling, produced only in great vintages. The grapes are selected from the prime Bussia plots of Cicala (15%), Colonnello (15%), and Romirasco (70%). Aged three years in Slavonian oak casks and another 1 1/2 years in stainless steel tanks before resting in bottle for another year. This is truly wine of patience, meriting another 10-20 years of cellaring.

Paolo Conterno 1997 Barolo ‘Ginestra’ $115.14
Paolo Conterno founded this estate in the Monforte area of Barolo in 1886; today his grandson, also named Paolo, leads the way with a team that includes his wife, Caterina, and their two children, Marisa and Giorgio. With seven hectares planted to Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto in the celebrated Ginestra cru, the estate regularly presents elegant wines of great structure that have excellent aging potential. Under the sage advice of Beppe Caviola, the family enthusiastically pursues relatively traditional methods that produce classic Barolo, yet they also introduce a kiss of French oak to most bottlings. Traditional Barolo at its best: full on the palate with chewy tannins supporting spicy berry fruit. A persistent finish concludes this excellently structured wine.

Roagna – I Paglieri 1997 Barolo La Rocca e la Pira $44.95*
See Roagna's Barbaresco for more on this estate. Roagna’s Barolo La Rocca e la Pira is an expression of the historic Pira vineyard (once known as Rocca) in Rocche di Castiglione Falletto. The estate’s stalwart focus on the expression of the Nebbiolo and the terroir shines through in this wine, with substantial vanilla tannins and a rich bouquet.

Mascarello 1997 Barolo $189.95 (1.5L)
Bartolo Mascarello, who passed away last year, had a great passion for the preservation of Barolo’s historic past, which emphasizes the flavors of the local land. He always made his wine the same way, through techniques that go back centuries and which were inherited when he was an apprentice under his father, Giulio, one of the true icons of Barolo. Like his father, Bartolo instilled these same values and techniques in the next generation, his daughter Maria Teresa, who now carries on the artisan’s craft and represents the future of Barolo’s Old School. Mascarello's wine is a blend from just five hectares in La Morra’s historic and prestigious vineyards of Cannubi, San Lorenzo, Rue, and Rocche. The approach is simple: low yields and ripe fruit from Barolo’s best vines, blended for consistent quality and style. The result is a line of consistent, gorgeous, harmonious wines that can stand the test of time—the acidity and tannins of this Barolo are firmly braced by noble structure and exquisite balance.

Sandrone 1997 Barolo ‘Cannubi Boschis’ $174.50*
Luciano Sandrone is often labeled a modernist because he opts for shorter macerations, the use of some new oak, and shorter aging requirements for his wines. However, that is only half the equation. Here, the craftsman respects tradition and only incorporates aspects of modern technology and technique to showcase the utmost potential of his precious grapes. His magical juice does not rely on 225-liter barriques for style: he prefers the 500-liter tonneaux. Luciano’s training comes from a traditional background at the historic Marchesi di Barolo estate. Now his boutique-style winery with choice plot locations produces some of the richest, most polished Barolos in the region. Sandrone's only single- vineyard bottling, coming from a five-acre site on the majestic Cannubi Boschis hill, is one of Barolo's most prized modern wines. A well-defined bouquet and palate. Full-bodied and creamy; the mild acidity and gentle tannins glide right into the long finish.

Click for a historic offering of 1996 Piemonte!

1997 Brunello di Montalcino

Valdicava 1997 Brunello Ris ‘Madonna del Piano’ $135.00*
In his youth Vincenzo Abbruzzese spent summers working at his grandparents’ winery in northern Montalcino. When his grandfather announced the intention to sell Valdicava in 1987 Vincenzo opened his eyes to a new future and left his studies in Florence. The property was pleading for drastic improvements and the young man had hardly any capital of his own; but he was a dedicated worker and promptly began a series of improvements that would shape Valdicava into the top quality winery he envisioned. With just 10 hectares in the coldest part of the Brunello zone, he is probably the most exacting grower in the area, managing vegetation so that each grape will enjoy the perfect amount of sun and mercilessly expunging tightly packed grapes to avoid rot and diseases. Abbruzzese’s wines are lush, rich, and concentrated, with effortless balance that lingers on the long finish. This Riserva comes from the Madonna del Piano vineyard in Montalcino’s northern Montosoli zone.

Caparzo 1997 Brunello di Montalcino ‘La Casa’ $94.46*
(limited availability)
The vineyards and cellars of Tenuta Caparzo were established in the 1960s, but progressive adaptation has continued through the decades. The estate currently experiments with innovative cultivation systems and several clones under the management of Sante Turone. The estate has always focused obsessively on terroir, acquiring multiple plots totaling 190 hectares, 85 of them vineyards. Five hectares of Brunello (Sangiovese Grosso) in Montosoli yield this cru bottling with a structure ideal for long and rewarding aging. A true collector’s Brunello, the 1997 vintage was aged for 12 months in French barriques, 18 months in large French oak barrels, and 15 months in bottles. Dry and warm on the palate, the breadth, balance, and persistence of this wine are evident.

Uccelliera 1997 Brunello di Montalcino $98.98*
Azienda Agricola Uccelliera has sat above the Aviary farmland since the 11th century. Purchased in 1986 when Andrea Cortonesi chose to transform the land into a vineyard with wine cellar, this estate has continuously improved the quality of its production. A high density of vines covers just six hectares. Named for the hills for which it lies on, Uccelliera is located in southeastern Montalcino (click for map). The primary focus is Brunello, although several other noteworthy wines are produced at this estate including a Rosso di Montalcino and the Super Tuscan Rapace. Cortonesi’s Brunello di Montalcino is well structured and balanced, and he successfully shows the true nature of the land when working with Sangiovese.

Col d’Orcia 1997 Brunello di Montalcino $79.97*
In 1933 the First Exhibition of Italian Wine saw three vintages of Brunello from this land with the estate name Fattoria di Sant’Angelo in Colle. The estate adopted its new name in 1973 under the ownership of Count Alberto Marone Cinzano (of the famous Cinzano vermouth family). Count Francesco Marone Cinzano is the current president of the organization, and Edoardo Virano governs production with the help of in-house enologist Pablo Härri and consultant Maurizio Castelli. Col d’Orcia covers 540 hectares in Montalcino, of which 142 are planted to vines. As well as producing outstanding wines, the estate is constantly involved in research to optimize the quality of the fruit they grow. The resulting discoveries feed further developments in their Brunello, Rosso, and Moscadello di Montalcino, Super Tuscans, Sant’Antimo, and Chianti. This dense, low acid bottling shows a more delicate and approachable side of Brunello.

Il Poggione 1997 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $98.50*
The Franceschi family has owned the estate’s 100 hectares of prime vineyards around the historic village of Sant’Angelo since 1890, but the vines only began to live up to their full potential in 1958, when Leopoldo Franceschi enlisted Romanian agricultural expert Pierluigi Talenti. Over the next 40 years, beginning with the 1965 release, Il Poggione became synonymous with classic, elegant, powerful Brunello. Though Talenti passed away in 1999, Fabrizio Bindocci—who spent more than two decades at Talenti’s side—carries on the tradition of excellence. The Riserva is created only in top vintages from a choice selection of grapes and is consistently one of the finest wines of its genre. This full-bodied Brunello is youthful and powerful, displaying layers of dark fruit and spice that are supported by bright acidity and chewy tannins. Over time, this cellar staple will prove its elegance.

Click for 2001 Brunello di Montalcino!

Collectible 1997 Super Tuscans

Antinori 1997 Solaia $433.62*
Antinori 1997 Solaia $899.90 (1.5L)*
Where Sassicaia opened the door for Italian wine, Marchese Piero Antinori, with the guidance of Giacomo Tachis, kicked it down with the introduction of Tignanello in 1971, Solaia in 1978, and Guado al Tasso in 1990. Solaia competes as Italy’s most prestigious blend and is the flagship wine of her most celebrated producer. The golden child of Piero Antinori and esteemed enologist Giacomo Tachis, whose magic touch has graced Italy’s most elite Super Tuscans (Sassicaia, Tignanello, Sammarco, Argiano among others), the wine started in 1978 as a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and grew in 1982 to include Sangiovese. The grapes used to make this “sunny one” are grown exclusively in the vineyard of the same name, a highly desirable 10 hectare patch of land on the Tignanello estate, which is also home to the eponymous wine.

Antinori 1997 Guado al Tasso $116.12* (limited availability)
As with Angelo Gaja’s Ca’ Marcanda effort in the mid- nineties, it was only a matter of time before this legendary producer found a home for a red blend on the pioneering soil of Bolgheri. He is in good company here with both his uncle’s legendary Tenuta San Guido estate and his brother’s Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, which is still pouring out the most sought-after Merlot (Masseto) in all of Italy. Greatness clearly flows in this man’s blood, and the soils of Bolgheri are a natural breeding ground for Antinori success. The Guado al Tasso estate, or “Badger’s Ford,” is located in the Bolgheri zone. It has been in the family since the early thirties but did not become a center of activity until the 1990 debut of its title wine. This blend is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon and rounded out by 30% Merlot and now 10% Syrah, resulting in a rich color and a delightful balance of structure and softness on the palate.

Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 1997 Ornellaia $250.00*
Along with Tenuta San Guido, Le Macchiole, and Grattamacco, Ornellaia is one of the four pillars of the great Bolgheri Super Tuscan movement. Brother to Piero Antinori and cousin to Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta of Sassicaia, Lodovico Antinori left his family in the seventies to start his own winery with an emphasis on Cabernet and Merlot. Like the neighboring Marchese Mario Incisa, Lodovico believed that the steep, south-facing coastal slopes of this zone were a calling card for great claret-style wines. However, Lodovico did not just look to Bordeaux or Sassicaia for inspiration. He quickly acquainted himself with Andre Tchelistcheff, one of the fathers of California Cabernet, as well as Bordeaux’s leading enologist, Michel Rolland. With the team and plantings in place it wasn’t long before a space-age wine facility was built to produce the highest quality wines of Italy. Since its debut in 1985, the estate’s signature wine continues to demonstrate excellence. This weighty Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend with a splash of Cabernet Franc displays great complexity and a broad spectrum of flavors that make it one of the most elegant Super Tuscans. The intense layers of flavor are structured by medium acidity, moderate tannins, and warm alcohol.

Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 1997 Masseto $481.25*
Lodovico Antinori’s Ornellaia may have been the breakout for the estate, but the Masseto remains its crowning achievement! In fact, Masseto has the distinction of being Toscana’s most widely sought wine, and the historic 1997 vintage is a trophy for any collector. With Andre's guidance and persistence, Lodovico established a plot dedicated to the noble Merlot. The unique spot contains a blend of three clays in the soil and its own distinct microclimate with similarities akin to Pomerol.

Click for Sassicaia, the Super Tuscan Pioneer!

More 1997 Super Tuscans

San Giusto a Rentennano 1997 Percarlo $199.95*
The estate of San Giusto a Rentennano covers 30.5 hectares planted to vines, where the family practices organic agriculture. Elisabetta Martini di Cigala manages the business end of things while her brothers Francesco and Luca care for the vineyards and craft the wines with the guidance of enologist Attilio Pagli. Percarlo is a pure Sangiovese Super Tuscan that exploits the full potential of the region’s signature grape. The secret behind Francesco and Luca’s wine is the terroir – the Percarlo, named for a family friend who died tragically, is a cuvee of grapes from six different vineyards located in the southern portion of the Chianti Classico zone. The grapes are harvested later than most to create a powerful, concentrated wine that could challenge many Brunellos and Cabernets. This difficult to find wine was born in 1983 and captures its glory in the basking sun of 1997.

Querciabella 1997 Camartina $89.83
After spending most of his life in Mexico, Giuseppe Castiglioni returned to his homeland and stumbled upon an enchanting piece of land in Toscana. Finding himself in the heart of Chianti’s wine country, he planted a few vines and made wine to enjoy with friends. But the potential of the land was too great a temptation. Castiglioni became engrossed by his wine and in 1987 hired enologist Guido de Santi to ensure that only the best wines would come from Querciabella. The grapes for Camartina are carefully selected, and the Sangiovese (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), and Merlot and Syrah (5%) undergo vinification separately. Only after a full year of aging in barriques are the best lots selected through extensive tasting and assembled into the final blend, which then undergoes further aging in both oak and bottle. Depending on the vintage, Camartina reaches maturity between 4 and 7 years after the harvest. The 1997 is an exceptional vintage. The concentrated fruit and high alcohol make this an intense, warm wine. Layers of complexity unfold from start to very long finish.

Fattoria Petrolo 1997 Galatrona $195.00
Located in the Colli Aretini of Toscana, the Etruscan Tower of Galatrona is the central focus of this classic estate. Of the 272 hectares, 31 are planted to vines and fall in the Colli Aretini zone of Chianti. The Bazzocchi family, owners of Petrolo since the 1940s, stepped up their standards of production in the late ‘80s and now focus on just two decidedly modern bottlings, Galatrona and Torrione. This pure varietal wine is yet another example—along with Masseto, Redigaffi, and Lamaione—of the outstanding levels Merlot can reach in Toscana. Rich, powerful, and dense, with a huge impact, plenty of sweet overtones, and very silky tannins.

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