and more:
• Costanti, Colombini, and Lisini
• Ciacci Piccolomini and Casanova di Neri
• Camigliano and La Poderina

A Note from Sergio

While the buzz from the 1999 Brunello vintage is still ringing, the 1999 Riservas are beginning to arrive accompanied by the even riper 2000 normales. Given the frenzy around the 1999 normale, there can be no doubt that the media will award high marks to many of these new releases. However, finding an exceptional bottle of this noble wine that can balance finesse and power will still demand strict guidelines in producer selection, especially at the price, and you should not settle for less. Today I am recommending a selection of 2000 Brunello and 1999 Brunello Riservas that represent quality in varying styles, as I share my thoughts on Brunello and the 2000 vintage.

My position on the current state of Brunello di Montalcino has not changed since my e-Letter in June. There is too much abuse in the way of blending and wood vessel experimentation. Another mistreatment you need to be aware of is the labeling of “Riservas,” which should, in theory, represent the best vineyard grapes from an exceptional year and requires an additional year of ageing. Practice and theory often differ here, and if you are paying the expense of a Riserva you need to be confident in what you are buying. Also, consider that only a handful of wineries choose to make a Riserva. This adds to the confusion because the reality is that many producers who do not make Riservas, such as Poggio di Sotto and Cerbaiona, often show better quality in their regular Brunellos than most producers do with their Riservas. You can be assured that the Riservas selected below truly represent the estate’s superior grapes and ageing -- I know this through my recent visits to Montalcino.

As for vintage 2000, I believe solid producers can do great things in fair to good vintages, just as I believe that 1998 was overlooked due to its positioning between the two hyped vintages of 1997 and 1999. In 2000, Mother Nature supplied the Boot with lots of sun and heat, which in the northern region of Piemonte produced atypical wines that showed brilliance from the masters of Nebbiolo; for Toscana, these characteristics were compounded and the vintage demanded effective vineyard management to avoid stressed vines and damage from the heavy October rains. The winemakers who practiced careful grape selection, low yields, and early harvesting provided potential for excellent wines in this good vintage. As a vintage indicator I looked to the Rosso di Montalcino of 2000: from the right producers these were some of the best Rossos to arrive at IWM. For selected 2000 Brunellos, the conditions mean a high concentration of fruit, big and round on the palate with tell-tale notes of red berries, black cherry, leather, tobacco, and sweet spice. However, that would be simplifying a zone that offers of a range of styles based on microclimate variables, vinification technique, clonal mutations, and more. You will find the best of each in the wines below, from the artisanal craftsmanship in the powerful wines of Cerbaiona to the approachable softness of Casanova di Neri and the sheer tannic elegance of Costanti.

To order these wines, please contact a Portfolio Manager at 212.473.2323. Please note that all of these wines are subject to future arrival dates. If you have not had the opportunity to read about IWM's Fiorano offer (The Prince and His Wine), click the link below - this is a life-changing wine!

All the best,
Sergio

Click here for The Prince and His Wines!

Cerbaiona and Sassetti

CERBAIONA
The estate was established with the 1981 vintage by former pilot Diego Molinari, and from 1982 onwards they have performed flawlessly. Daniel Thomases, the senior critic of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, rates Cerbaiona as closest to Soldera - Case Basse, the most expensive and sought after Brunello on the market. And like Soldera, the wines are aged in the ‘old style’ with Slavonian tonneaux instead of the fashionable French barrique. The “Commander,” as this pilot is known, creates a consistent style of pure elegance backed with power. These impeccably made Brunellos are an IWM favorite.

Cerbaiona 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $94.70

LIVIO SASSETTI (PERTIMALI)
The Sassetti family has been working the land for many generations, and winemaking has now been an important part of their production for a century. Livio Sassetti inherited this tradition but was displeased with the quality of fruit from the family vineyards, so in the early 1970’s he followed his ambition to Montalcino. Here he purchased land in the prized Montosoli vineyards and established the Pertimali estate, named for a cottage on the property. His sons Lorenzo and Luciano now join him in the production of an elegant, complex line of wines that resemble the great libations of Burgundy yet are distinctively Tuscan. Note: The 1997 was the first vintage to feature a redesigned label headlining Sassetti’s name rather than the title of the estate.

Livio Sassetti 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $98.95

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Altesino and Poggio Antico

ALTESINO
Altesino, which encircles the 14th-century Palazzo Altesi in eastern Montalcino, is at the forefront of modern winemaking yet maintains its elegance. Leading off the use of French barriques for Brunello and the first to sell Brunello as ‘futures,’ Altesino was also a pioneer of Montalcino crus since 1975, capitalizing on the excellent complexity and texture imparted by the Montosoli vineyard. The Tricerchi family, after establishing this illustrious winery, entrusted it in 2002 to Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini, who also owns Tenuta Caparzo. Under Elisabetta the Altesino estate encompasses 64 ha of which 27 are planted to vines. With the help of Claudio Basla, Elisabetta has maintained Altesino's quality tradition and continues to impress the world with her fine, firm Brunellos that are made for aging.

Altesino 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $46.50
Altesino 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli $82.50
Altesino 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $88.50

POGGIO ANTICO
Located 50 kilometers south of Siena, Poggio Antico dates back to the early 19th century; but vineyards weren't planted here until the late 1970's, when construction of the cellar began. What makes this estate truly unique is its elevation, an impressive 450 meters above sea level. At this height, steady breezes help to prevent fog and early frosts, also cooling the grapes in hot vintages and drying them after every rain, thus forestalling the development of mold. This uncommon terroir has given the wines of Poggio Antico their distinct earthy complexity and brilliance, artfully balancing power and elegance. In 1984 the estate was purchased by Giancarlo and Nuccia Gloder, who saw the unparalleled potential of the location, and Paola, their youngest daughter, has managed the estate since 1987. Paola is a firm believer in the importance of the grapes and only allows the very best fruit to survive her rigorous pruning, resulting in high-quality wine from low yields.

Poggio Antico 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $89.50
Poggio Antico 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $49.50

Click here for the assorted Brunello 2000 six-pack!

Costanti, Colombini, and Lisini

CONTI COSTANTI
When Cosimo de’ Medici took control of Siena in 1559, an indignant group of nobles preferred to leave their home than to submit to their new lord: it was this emigration that brought Conte Scipione Costanti to Colle al Matrichese in eastern Montalcino. Generations later, Tito Costanti presented two bottles of Brunello – labeled 1865 and 1869 – at an exhibition of quality wine from the territories surrounding Siena. The 20th century saw the first commercial Costanti Brunello with Conte Emilio, who began production in the early 70’s, and in 1982 the estate lured his grandson Andrea away from his studies in geology. Together with consultant Vittorio Fiore, Andrea presents an extremely limited production of stellar wines that display structure, finesse, spice, and dark fruit.

Conti Costanti 2000 Brunello Di Montalcino $59.00

DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI - IL CASATO
Donatella Cinelli Colombini is a major force in the world of quality Italian wine and has spurred important advances in enotourism. She creates a classic Brunello as well as a Riserva and a Rosso di Montalcino; she also runs the Azienda del Colle at Trequanda, where she produces Chianti Classico Superiore, Orcia, Vin Santo, and a Super Tuscan. Donatella is already grooming her daughter Violante as heir to the business.

Donatella C. Colombini 1999 Brunello Riserva $52.00
Donatella C. Colombini 1999 Brunello Riserva (1.5L) $108.00
Donatella C. Colombini 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $44.50

LISINI
The history of Lisini dates back to the 16th century, when the family inherited a tract of land in the hot southern portion of Montalcino near Sant’Angelo in Colle. The family cultivated Sangiovese and made tiny quantities of wine that they consumed themselves. Not until 1967 did Lisini first market its Brunello, but the quality was already promising and the scale of production very low, with just 12 of their 154 ha planted to vines. The wine has reveled in public acclaim since, and in 1975 Lisini was dubbed best of the Brunello Consortium in a tasting at the enoteca Solci in Milano. Eight years later the family brought in enologist Franco Bernabei. The resultant bottlings are big and angular yet elegant, and they express the best of dark fruit -style Brunello.

Lisini 1999 Brunello 'Ugolaia' Riserva $89.00
Lisini 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $49.99

Click here for assorted six-pack of Brunello Riserva!

Ciacci Piccolomini and Casanova di Neri

CIACCI PICCOLOMINI
In 1985, Giuseppe Bianchini began his quest for quality. Moments after the passing of Countess Piccolomini, Giuseppe learned that he, the sole employee who passionately cared about her vines, inherited the vast Piccolomini wine estate. Evidence of his appreciation and commitment to the Piccolomini legend can be found in the glass – each wine is a tribute to the gracious Countess. Highly regarded palates consistently rank the Ciacci Piccolomini wines in the top 10th percentile – with good reason. Giuseppe believes his strict adherence to sustainable growing practices has significantly contributed to the vibrancy of fruit and the depth of complexity in his wines over the years. Without doubt, these wines speak of consistent quality and exhibit Tuscan typicity crafted in a modern style. Here is your first chance to purchase the estate’s latest releases.

Ciacci Piccolomini 1999 Brunello Riserva $89.50
Ciacci Piccolomini 2000 Brunello (375ml) $32.00
Ciacci Piccolomini 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $49.99
Ciacci Piccolomini 2000 Brunello (1.5L) $109.00

CASANOVA DI NERI
Casanova di Neri was founded in 1971 by Giovanni Neri and is now run by his son Giacomo. The estate covers 36 ha of vineyards in the southeastern Montalcino sites of Pietradonice, Le Cetine, Cerretalto, and Fiesole; vinification is distinctively modern but carefully avoids excessive modernization that might jeopardize quality. Assisted by consultant Carlo Ferrini, Giacomo perpetually examines his cellars and 36 ha of vineyards in search of potential improvements, and the inky results are fine expressions of the land with good structure and soft oak.

Casanova di Neri 2000 Brunello 'Tenuta Nuova' $59.95
Casanova di Neri 2000 Brunello 'Tenuta Nuova' (1.5L) $139.00

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Camigliano and La Poderina

CAMIGLIANO
Resting on the eastern outskirts of the Montalcino district, Camigliano boasts a rich heritage. Lying partially beneath the master house, at least a portion of the winery was built at the same time as the old boundary walls, around 1250-1280. Redeveloped between 1600 and 1700, it hasn't been altered since. Facing north, the cellar's vaulted stone ceiling ensures constant cool temperatures. Here, famed consulting enologist Lorenzo Landi crafts stylish wines that merit rapt attention, especially their Brunello. Each one showcases the estate’s tell-tale characteristics of mineral and cedar, and is vinified from rich fruit. The Gualto is a result of diligent grape selection from prime sites in the best positions of the estate, and the 1998 vintage marked its debut.

Camigliano 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Gualto $69.00
Camigliano 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $44.50

LA PODERINA
La Poderina, a 20-hectare estate in the southeastern Castelnuovo dell’Abate subzone of Montalcino, was bought in 1988 by Saiagricola, a subsidiary of Italian insurance giant SAI. This corporate empire may control numerous companies, but it is known for strict insistence on quality and offers very reasonable prices for the excellent bottlings they produce at La Poderina. In fact, over more than a decade of meticulous research on the terroir of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, this winery has tweaked its techniques to extract the best possible wine from this outstanding land. Under Lorenzo Landi the estate enhances tradition with the best of modern innovation, creating elegant, accessible wines with flawless balance.

La Poderina 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $54.95

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