| |
 |
IWM
e-Letter: March 3, 2005
The Resilience of Sassicaia
& Montevertine |
|
 |
| In
this Issue:
• New
from Sassicaia & Montevertine
• Sassicaia 2002 - 1982
• Guidalberto: Second Wine of Sassicaia
|
|
and
more:
• Le
Difese: Third Wine of Sassicaia
• Montevertine: The Sangiovese Purist
• Super Tuscan Six Pack
|
 |
 |
 |
New
from Sassicaia & Montevertine
My
original intent was to offer only Sassicaia's
latest vintage and the estate's new Le
Difese, but I have decided to add the tale
of the Super
Tuscan Pioneer and the Sangiovese
Purist. At the time of their celebrated
births two wines broke all the rules as
they went on to express the full potential
of the terroir and changed the course of
wine production in Toscana. They are Tenuta
San Guido’s Sassicaia and Montevertine’s
Le Pergole Torte.
While the objective of the
DOC system is quality assurance, the viticultural
regulations
sometimes limit creativity, individuality,
and the qualitative expression of terroir.
In the sixties, it was the drive and foresight
of Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, along with
guidance from Giacomo Tachis (also Piero
Antinori's winemaker) that made enological
history and created the Super
Tuscan movement.
No one considered making an elegant wine
crafted along Bordeaux lines on Italian soil,
much less in a region like Bolgheri that
was not yet established viticulturally. The
use of Cabernet Sauvignon compounded by maturation
in small oak automatically demoted the wine
to “vino da tavola” or table
wine status - a difficult sell in the quality
wine market. Despite these obstacles, Sassicaia
entered the world stage in 1968 to critical
acclaim and thus the Super Tuscan Pioneer
was born... and then often abused by others
in the decades following.
Enter Montevertine owner
Sergio Manetti. He was thoroughly displeased
with the on-going
addition of “vitigni migliorativi,” or
complementary grapes (e.g. Merlot, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, etc.) to Sangiovese
in an attempt to produce a more "international" wine
with broader appeal. Shunning the tasting
commission that had been unable to accept
his pure varietal wine and further irked
by his innovative use of barrique ageing,
Manetti produced his last Chianti Classico
in 1981 and became a Sangiovese purist with
his first release of Le Pergole Torte.
Time has stood still at these
two estates, as much of the world has again
given into
the international demand to create a super-extracted,
monster red wine; instead, Tenuta San Guido
and Montevertine continue to produce the
most elegant wines of Toscana. This juxtaposition
was best represented in a recent vertical
tasting of Sassicaia hosted by IWM. In the
line-up (which included the legendary 1985
and 1982) the 1997 was a blessing of grace
and sophistication, a complete contrast to
Robert Parker’s 87-point rating in
which he claims the wine was less concentrated
than anticipated. In this case the reviewer
chose extraction over elegance. Through sheer
resilience Manetti and Incisa della Rocchetta
have remained faithful to their mission and
their formula, and the rest of Italy is taking
notice. Read on below to learn about their
latest offerings. If you have any additional
questions or should you like to purchase
these wines, please feel free to call Perry
Porricelli at 212.473.2323.
My Best,
Sergio Esposito
Read
Italy's other great producers!
|
|
 |
|
 |
Sassicaia
2002 - 1982
Sassicaia is the most collectible wine to
come out of the Boot! This now historic wine
is single-handedly responsible for launching
the Super Tuscan movement and remains one
of the most sought-after wines in the world.
Marchese Nicolò Incisa
della Rocchetta continues the 36-year-old
tradition at the
Tenuta
San Guido estate, which is considered
by many to be the birthplace of Tuscan Cabernet.
Sassicaia is a masterful cuvee of the best
Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes
from vineyards situated on hilly slopes in
a subzone of Bolgheri. In 1994 this magical
spot was crowned with its own DOC status,
the first time an Italian wine was granted
this honor.
Sassicaia
Red to garnet in color. Pungent leather is
stacked high with black fruit and shards
of pencil lead. Just as powerful on the
palate, with similar flavors joined by
dried underbrush and a toasty dose of oak.
This intense wine is completed by elegant
tannins and just a hint of acidity that
hold the balance well into a long finish.
Tenuta San Guido 2002 Sassicaia $69.95 (375ml)
Tenuta San Guido 2002 Sassicaia $137.00 (750ml)
Tenuta San Guido 2002 Sassicaia $295.26 (1.5L)
Tenuta San Guido 2001 Sassicaia $147.00 (750ml)
Tenuta San Guido 2001 Sassicaia $375.00 (1.5L)
Tenuta San Guido 2001 Sassicaia $895.00 (3.0L)
Tenuta San Guido 2000 Sassicaia $159.00 (750ml)
Tenuta San Guido 1999 Sassicaia $179.00 (750ml)
Tenuta San Guido 1989 Sassicaia $475.00 (1.5L)
Tenuta San Guido 1988 Sassicaia $620.00 (1.5L)
Tenuta San Guido 1986 Sassicaia $395.00 (1.5L)
Tenuta San Guido 1984 Sassicaia $433.34 (1.5L)
Tenuta San Guido 1982 Sassicaia $549.00 (750ml)
Click
here for more Super Tuscans from IWM!
|
|
 |
|
 |
Guidalberto: Second
Wine of Sassicaia
The 2000 vintage was the first
release of a new wine created by the mastermind
of Sassicaia,
Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta, and his
stepson, Sebastiano Rosa, former manager at Argiano who collaborated in the creation of the Super-Tuscan
Solengo. Named for Guidalberto della Gherardesca,
a maternal ancestor of Incisa who cultivated
vines in Bolgheri in the 19th century, the wine
is based on a different idea than Sassicaia,
though undoubtedly shaped by the same soil and
climate.
The vinification facility for Guidalberto is
a converted olive oil mill at Tenuta San Guido.
Fermentation takes place separately for each
of the three varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
and Sangiovese. Oak ageing occurs over twelve
months in 225-liter French and American oak barrels
(a.k.a. barriques).
Guidalberto
The 2003 is a beautifully balanced, dark ruby
wine strongly marked by sweet black fruit,
ripe forest berries, and restrained notes of
cigar wrap, nutmeg, violet, and vanilla. The
supple palate is exuberant with fresh, ripe
fruit contained by silky tannins. The finish
is long and satisfying.
Tenuta San Guido 2003 Guidalberto $69.00 (750ml)
Tenuta San Guido 2003 Guidalberto $148.00 (1.5L)
Click
here for the other great Super Tuscan pioneer!
|
|
 |
|
 |
Le Difese:
Third Wine of Sassicaia
The legend continues… First
Sassicaia, then Guidalberto, and now Le
Difese. The label bears a wild boar and
the name ‘difese’ indicates ‘defenses.’ The
wine represents a departure from international
varietals with a focus on the noble Sangiovese
as its base, accompanied by a 10% dosage
of Cabernet Sauvignon. While the Guidalberto
grabbed the headlines back in 2000, this
cousin of the mythical Sassicaia was quietly
released with the 2001 vintage in 2003.
Only 500 cases were distributed to local
wine bars near the Bolgheri estate for
barely six euros. The wines and this announcement
are among the first on Amercian soil and
IWM is pleased to bring you the 2003 vintage.
Le Difese “ The defenses are the teeth of the
boar and the boar, when he is attacked, counter-attacks
with his teeth, his 'defenses,' to be exact.” What
this all means we leave to the wine drinker.
Expect the best from Tenuta San Guido.
Tenuta San Guido 2003 Le Difese $29.50 (750ml)
Click
for additional offers from IWM!
|
|
 |
 |
 |
Montevertine:
The Sangiovese Purist
Sergio
Manetti was thoroughly exasperated by the hype
surrounding
Super Tuscan blends. Yet he was equally displeased
with the DOC requirements that forbade ageing
in French barriques and continually added “vitigni
migliorativi,” or complementary grapes
(e.g Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc.) in an
attempt to produce a more "international" wine
with broader appeal - Manetti believed this implied
that stand-alone Sangiovese wasn't good enough
for top cuvees. Declaring Sangiovese second to
none, he vowed never, ever to use white grapes
in his red wines. So he produced his last Chianti
Classico in 1981 and became a Sangiovese purist
with his first release of Le Pergole Torte, later
introducing Montevertine, Montevertine Riserva,
and Il Sodaccio to his line. Sadly, Sergio passed
away several years ago. His legend, however,
lives on in his wines.
Le Pergole Torte
This flagship proprietary red from Manetti's
Sangioveto vineyard mixes cherry liqueur with
cigar wrap and worn leather. The palate exhibits
strong, dry tannins, high acidity, and medium
weight. Extraordinarily elegant and complex,
the wine displays exceptional purity of fruit.
The heartbeat of Sangiovese!
Montevertine 2001 Le Pergole Torte $79.95 (750ml)
Montevertine 2001 Le Pergole Torte $160.00 (1.5L)
Montevertine 2001 Le Pergole Torte $359.00 (3.0L)
Montevertine 2001 Le Pergole Torte $795.00 (6.0L)
Montevertine 2000 Le Pergole Torte $79.00 (750ml)
Montevertine 2000 Le Pergole Torte $328.00 (3.0L)
Montevertine 2000 Le Pergole Torte $1,972.00
(12.0L)
Montevertine 1998 Le Pergole Torte $98.00 (750ml)
Montevertine Rosso
High pitched cherry, spicy vanilla, and hints
of charcoal hit both nose and palate. Signs
of terroir surface in the notes of dried herb
and lead. The well-textured palate is structured
by youthful tannin, supported by firm acidity,
and verging on full body.
Montevertine 2001 Rosso $42.90 (750ml)
Montevertine 2001 Rosso $97.50 (1.5L)
Montevertine 2000 Rosso $36.00 (750ml)
Montevertine 2000 Rosso $79.00 (1.5L)
Montevertine 1998 Riserva $54.40 (750ml)
Click
here for other Sangiovese greats!
|
|
| |
|
 |
Super Tuscan
Six Pack
In
the 1960’s, to craft a Bordeaux-style
wine in Italy was unheard of, and Tuscany
was still looking to secure its place as
a quality wine region. In the Chianti zone,
100% pure Sangiovese was unthinkable during
the early '80's. Yet creative, defiant
producers like Tenuta
San Guido and Montevertine broke
away from the restrictive regulations of
the DOC to make the very first Super
Tuscans of their kind. Putting their faith
in the terroir, they took a chance and
prevailed with historic wines like Sassicaia
and Le Pergole Torte. This Super-Tuscan
six-pack highlights three great wines from
each producer (note: the case includes
two of each wine).
Tenuta
San Guido 2002 Sassicaia (750 ml)
Tenuta
San Guido 2003 Guidalberto (750 ml)
Tenuta
San Guido 2003 Le Difese (750 ml)
Montevertine 2001 Le Pergole Torte (750ml)
Montevertine 2001 Montevertine Rosso (750ml)
Montevertine 1998 Montevertine Riserva (750ml)
IWM Super Tuscan Six Pack (6): $412.75*
IWM Super Tuscan Case Sampler (12): $794.18*
*Free delivery to NYC residents
Click
here to order this special Toscana
Six Pack!
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|