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IWM e-Letter: March 3, 2005
The Resilience of Sassicaia & Montevertine

In this Issue:
• New from Sassicaia & Montevertine
• Sassicaia 2002 - 1982
• Guidalberto: Second Wine of Sassicaia

 

and more:
Le Difese: Third Wine of Sassicaia
• Montevertine: The Sangiovese Purist

• Super Tuscan Six Pack

New from Sassicaia & Montevertine

My original intent was to offer only Sassicaia's latest vintage and the estate's new Le Difese, but I have decided to add the tale of the Super Tuscan Pioneer and the Sangiovese Purist. At the time of their celebrated births two wines broke all the rules as they went on to express the full potential of the terroir and changed the course of wine production in Toscana. They are Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia and Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte.

While the objective of the DOC system is quality assurance, the viticultural regulations sometimes limit creativity, individuality, and the qualitative expression of terroir. In the sixties, it was the drive and foresight of Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, along with guidance from Giacomo Tachis (also Piero Antinori's winemaker) that made enological history and created the Super Tuscan movement. No one considered making an elegant wine crafted along Bordeaux lines on Italian soil, much less in a region like Bolgheri that was not yet established viticulturally. The use of Cabernet Sauvignon compounded by maturation in small oak automatically demoted the wine to “vino da tavola” or table wine status - a difficult sell in the quality wine market. Despite these obstacles, Sassicaia entered the world stage in 1968 to critical acclaim and thus the Super Tuscan Pioneer was born... and then often abused by others in the decades following.

Enter Montevertine owner Sergio Manetti. He was thoroughly displeased with the on-going addition of “vitigni migliorativi,” or complementary grapes (e.g. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, etc.) to Sangiovese in an attempt to produce a more "international" wine with broader appeal. Shunning the tasting commission that had been unable to accept his pure varietal wine and further irked by his innovative use of barrique ageing, Manetti produced his last Chianti Classico in 1981 and became a Sangiovese purist with his first release of Le Pergole Torte.

Time has stood still at these two estates, as much of the world has again given into the international demand to create a super-extracted, monster red wine; instead, Tenuta San Guido and Montevertine continue to produce the most elegant wines of Toscana. This juxtaposition was best represented in a recent vertical tasting of Sassicaia hosted by IWM. In the line-up (which included the legendary 1985 and 1982) the 1997 was a blessing of grace and sophistication, a complete contrast to Robert Parker’s 87-point rating in which he claims the wine was less concentrated than anticipated. In this case the reviewer chose extraction over elegance. Through sheer resilience Manetti and Incisa della Rocchetta have remained faithful to their mission and their formula, and the rest of Italy is taking notice. Read on below to learn about their latest offerings. If you have any additional questions or should you like to purchase these wines, please feel free to call Perry Porricelli at 212.473.2323.

My Best,
Sergio Esposito

Read Italy's other great producers!

Sassicaia 2002 - 1982

Sassicaia is the most collectible wine to come out of the Boot! This now historic wine is single-handedly responsible for launching the Super Tuscan movement and remains one of the most sought-after wines in the world.

Marchese Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta continues the 36-year-old tradition at the Tenuta San Guido estate, which is considered by many to be the birthplace of Tuscan Cabernet. Sassicaia is a masterful cuvee of the best Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes from vineyards situated on hilly slopes in a subzone of Bolgheri. In 1994 this magical spot was crowned with its own DOC status, the first time an Italian wine was granted this honor.

Sassicaia
Red to garnet in color. Pungent leather is stacked high with black fruit and shards of pencil lead. Just as powerful on the palate, with similar flavors joined by dried underbrush and a toasty dose of oak. This intense wine is completed by elegant tannins and just a hint of acidity that hold the balance well into a long finish.

Tenuta San Guido 2002 Sassicaia $69.95 (375ml)
Tenuta San Guido 2002 Sassicaia $137.00 (750ml)
Tenuta San Guido 2002 Sassicaia $295.26 (1.5L)
Tenuta San Guido 2001 Sassicaia $147.00 (750ml)
Tenuta San Guido 2001 Sassicaia $375.00 (1.5L)
Tenuta San Guido 2001 Sassicaia $895.00 (3.0L)
Tenuta San Guido 2000 Sassicaia $159.00 (750ml)
Tenuta San Guido 1999 Sassicaia $179.00 (750ml)
Tenuta San Guido 1989 Sassicaia $475.00 (1.5L)
Tenuta San Guido 1988 Sassicaia $620.00 (1.5L)
Tenuta San Guido 1986 Sassicaia $395.00 (1.5L)
Tenuta San Guido 1984 Sassicaia $433.34 (1.5L)
Tenuta San Guido 1982 Sassicaia $549.00 (750ml)

Click here for more Super Tuscans from IWM!

Guidalberto: Second Wine of Sassicaia

The 2000 vintage was the first release of a new wine created by the mastermind of Sassicaia, Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta, and his stepson, Sebastiano Rosa, former manager at Argiano who collaborated in the creation of the Super-Tuscan Solengo. Named for Guidalberto della Gherardesca, a maternal ancestor of Incisa who cultivated vines in Bolgheri in the 19th century, the wine is based on a different idea than Sassicaia, though undoubtedly shaped by the same soil and climate.

The vinification facility for Guidalberto is a converted olive oil mill at Tenuta San Guido. Fermentation takes place separately for each of the three varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese. Oak ageing occurs over twelve months in 225-liter French and American oak barrels (a.k.a. barriques).

Guidalberto
The 2003 is a beautifully balanced, dark ruby wine strongly marked by sweet black fruit, ripe forest berries, and restrained notes of cigar wrap, nutmeg, violet, and vanilla. The supple palate is exuberant with fresh, ripe fruit contained by silky tannins. The finish is long and satisfying.

Tenuta San Guido 2003 Guidalberto $69.00 (750ml)
Tenuta San Guido 2003 Guidalberto $148.00 (1.5L)

Click here for the other great Super Tuscan pioneer!

Le Difese: Third Wine of Sassicaia

The legend continues… First Sassicaia, then Guidalberto, and now Le Difese. The label bears a wild boar and the name ‘difese’ indicates ‘defenses.’ The wine represents a departure from international varietals with a focus on the noble Sangiovese as its base, accompanied by a 10% dosage of Cabernet Sauvignon. While the Guidalberto grabbed the headlines back in 2000, this cousin of the mythical Sassicaia was quietly released with the 2001 vintage in 2003. Only 500 cases were distributed to local wine bars near the Bolgheri estate for barely six euros. The wines and this announcement are among the first on Amercian soil and IWM is pleased to bring you the 2003 vintage.

Le Difese
“ The defenses are the teeth of the boar and the boar, when he is attacked, counter-attacks with his teeth, his 'defenses,' to be exact.” What this all means we leave to the wine drinker. Expect the best from Tenuta San Guido.

Tenuta San Guido 2003 Le Difese $29.50 (750ml)

Click for additional offers from IWM!

Montevertine: The Sangiovese Purist

Sergio Manetti was thoroughly exasperated by the hype surrounding Super Tuscan blends. Yet he was equally displeased with the DOC requirements that forbade ageing in French barriques and continually added “vitigni migliorativi,” or complementary grapes (e.g Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc.) in an attempt to produce a more "international" wine with broader appeal - Manetti believed this implied that stand-alone Sangiovese wasn't good enough for top cuvees. Declaring Sangiovese second to none, he vowed never, ever to use white grapes in his red wines. So he produced his last Chianti Classico in 1981 and became a Sangiovese purist with his first release of Le Pergole Torte, later introducing Montevertine, Montevertine Riserva, and Il Sodaccio to his line. Sadly, Sergio passed away several years ago. His legend, however, lives on in his wines.

Le Pergole Torte
This flagship proprietary red from Manetti's Sangioveto vineyard mixes cherry liqueur with cigar wrap and worn leather. The palate exhibits strong, dry tannins, high acidity, and medium weight. Extraordinarily elegant and complex, the wine displays exceptional purity of fruit. The heartbeat of Sangiovese!

Montevertine 2001 Le Pergole Torte $79.95 (750ml)
Montevertine 2001 Le Pergole Torte $160.00 (1.5L)
Montevertine 2001 Le Pergole Torte $359.00 (3.0L)
Montevertine 2001 Le Pergole Torte $795.00 (6.0L)
Montevertine 2000 Le Pergole Torte $79.00 (750ml)
Montevertine 2000 Le Pergole Torte $328.00 (3.0L)
Montevertine 2000 Le Pergole Torte $1,972.00 (12.0L)
Montevertine 1998 Le Pergole Torte $98.00 (750ml)

Montevertine Rosso
High pitched cherry, spicy vanilla, and hints of charcoal hit both nose and palate. Signs of terroir surface in the notes of dried herb and lead. The well-textured palate is structured by youthful tannin, supported by firm acidity, and verging on full body.

Montevertine 2001 Rosso $42.90 (750ml)
Montevertine 2001 Rosso $97.50 (1.5L)
Montevertine 2000 Rosso $36.00 (750ml)
Montevertine 2000 Rosso $79.00 (1.5L)
Montevertine 1998 Riserva $54.40 (750ml)

Click here for other Sangiovese greats!

 

Super Tuscan Six Pack

In the 1960’s, to craft a Bordeaux-style wine in Italy was unheard of, and Tuscany was still looking to secure its place as a quality wine region. In the Chianti zone, 100% pure Sangiovese was unthinkable during the early '80's. Yet creative, defiant producers like Tenuta San Guido and Montevertine broke away from the restrictive regulations of the DOC to make the very first Super Tuscans of their kind. Putting their faith in the terroir, they took a chance and prevailed with historic wines like Sassicaia and Le Pergole Torte. This Super-Tuscan six-pack highlights three great wines from each producer (note: the case includes two of each wine).

Tenuta San Guido 2002 Sassicaia (750 ml)
Tenuta San Guido 2003 Guidalberto (750 ml)
Tenuta San Guido 2003 Le Difese (750 ml)
Montevertine 2001 Le Pergole Torte (750ml)
Montevertine 2001 Montevertine Rosso (750ml)
Montevertine 1998 Montevertine Riserva (750ml)

IWM Super Tuscan Six Pack (6): $412.75*
IWM Super Tuscan Case Sampler (12): $794.18*
*Free delivery to NYC residents

Click here to order this special Toscana Six Pack!

Store Information:
Italian Wine Merchants
108 East 16th Street
New York, NY 10003
Phone: 212.473.2323
Fax: 212.473.1952
sergio@italianwinemerchant.com

© 1999 Italian Wine Merchants All rights reserved.

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Note: Prices and availability are subject to change.
IWM is not responsible for typographical errors.