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IWM
e-Letter: January 20, 2005
Tuscan Villa & Italy's
Artisanal Producers |
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| In
this Issue:
• From
Aglianico to Verdicchio...
• Sangiovese's Range
• The Volcanic Aglianico
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and
more:
• 100%
Indigenous Whites
• A Taste of Italy Sampler
• Thousand Year Old Abbey Turns Villa
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From
Aglianico to Verdicchio...
Italy’s
tiny wine producers represent the heart
and soul of the Boot. These wineries are
generally just below the radar, often producing
wine(s) from vineyards of only 2 - 10 hectares
with an annual output of 400 or so cases
- all done with a staff of two or three.
Many of these small handcrafted wines are
difficult to find in the States.
Today, IWM is offering the
latest bottling from many of these artisanal
favorites for
a "Taste of Italy." Each wine is
truly a reflection of their terroir, whether
it be the fish-friendly Verdicchio from
the seaside region of Le Marche or the volcanic
Aglianico found
outside the eruptive Mt. Vesuvius, these
wines are rare treats at
approachable prices. Be sure to experience
the recent bottling of Pallagrello Bianco,
the obscure and ancient Roman varietal rediscovered
by Vestini
Campagnano. Over the past year,
the single varietal wine, unaided by the
use of oak, has become a favorite at IWM
tastings.
If you are interested in exploring Toscana
as well as Italy's great artisanal producers,
IWM recommends a visit to Villa
Montecastelli.
Read below to learn more on this historic
abbey and our selected artisans of the week.
Should you have any questions or would like
to order these wines, please contact our
Portfolio
Managers at 212.473.2323.
Click
for more wines from IWM!
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Sangiovese's
Range
LA RASINA
This tiny family estate, located just outside
the ancient city walls of Montalcino, was
founded by Santi Mantengoli in the early
1970’s. When his son Vasco took on
an important role in the following decade
La Rasina became more earnestly focused
on winemaking, and the 1988 vintage saw
their first Brunello di Montalcino. Almost
ten years later, Vasco’s son Marco
came to the forefront, introducing modern
techniques that further improved the family
wines.
La Rasina 1999 Brunello di Montalcino $57.48
Ruby-garnet color. Spicy fruit entertains
the nose. The robust palate fills the mouth
with a solid core of blackberries and cherries
adorned with cinnamon and other sweet spices.
A lasting finish.
CIMA
Cima is located above Carrara in the Candian
Hills; found between the sea and the legendary
Apuani Alps in northwestern Tuscany, this
range is home to an extraordinary microclimate
of cool, breezy summers and mild winters.
The Cima family (literally "the top")
has worked their steep terraced vineyards
entirely by hand since their first winemaking
ventures here in the 1800's. Vineyards
were replanted on the terraces in the 1970's
with the help of specialists who chose
to use every square foot of this valuable
land by planting at an unusual density
of 10,000 vines per hectare.
Cima 2001 Romalbo $44.00
A tiny vineyard supplies this wine’s
Sangiovese and Massaretta from its poor soil
of stony, decomposed schist yielding very
low but intense crops. The unique Romalbo
is entirely barrique aged: 80% in new oak
and 20% in second-use. The flavor explosion
starts with an intense mixture of overripe
blackcurrants and blackberries, followed
by a very silky, then powerful and broad
development in the mid-palate. The lingering
finish is loaded with minerals. A rare and
wonderful wine that is truly delicious, lush,
and dense.
Click
here for more Tuscan greats!
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The Volcanic Aglianico
SALVATORE MOLETTIERI
The Molettieri family has long passed their small
plot of land and their wisdom from father to
son, giving the current generation a solid
base on which to build quality production.
It was only in 1995, however, that Salvatore
and his son Giacomo started bottling their
own wine rather than selling the grapes; they
have not faltered since in their swift ascent
through the ranks to become one of Campania's
top producers. ‘Cinque Querce,’ in
the hills of Irpinia, is considered one of
the best sites for the native Aglianico di
Taurasi (“the Nebbiolo of the South”)
given its argillous-calcareous soil and drastic
temperature fluctuations from day to night.
Salvatore Molettieri 1999 Taurasi Riserva $57.75
Salvatore Molettieri 1998 Taurasi Riserva $52.25
From the great Taurasi vintages of 1998 and 1999,
this bottle pours a deep ruby red. Delicate aromas
of red fruit and spices are followed by a warm,
meaty palate with leather and a dash of mint.
Austere yet generous, with notable tannins, good
balance, and a persistent finish. Like Barolo,
this wine will reward patience.
ELENA FUCCI
When he began producing simple wines on this
land, Generoso Fucci was still a tenant farmer
of Villa Rotondo; but in 1970 he seized an
opportunity to make it his own. He divided
the land with the Paternoster family and started
the estate that is now run by his grandson,
Nicola, and named for Nicola’s daughter
Elena. The three hectares currently planted
with vines are in the viticultural nucleus
of Vulture at 650 meters of altitude. The soil
here is pure black volcanic ash and lava, from
which the Fucci
family now produces Aglianico
del Vulture 'Titolo,' one of southern Italy’s
great wine discoveries.
Elena Fucci 2001 Aglianico 'Titolo' $38.78
This mouth-filling Fucci wine is softer and less
aggressive than Molettieri's Taurasi, which
carries more tannic muscle. Nevertheless, the
dark Titolo will bite. Effusive flavors of
graphite and ash, reflective of the "Pozzolana" volcanic
lava soils of the vineyard. Cherries, red currants,
tobacco and rosemary pack onto the palate.
Rich and full-bodied with a judicious blend
of old and new oak. Juniper and wood spice
carry through on the lingering finish.
Click
for more on Campania and Basilicata!
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100% Indigenous
Whites
VESTINI CAMPAGNANO
In north central Campania, a land of great
wines since Roman times, lawyers Giuseppe
Mancini and Alberto Barletta have developed
their passion for indigenous, historical
grapes with a concentration on the Pallagrello
and Casavecchia varieties. With the aid
of esteemed enology professor Luigi Moro,
they have been awarded recognition by
both Luigi Veronelli and the Gambero
Rosso, two of Italy’s foremost
wine publications.
Vestini Campagnano 2003 Pallagrello Bianco
$38.36
Without oak influence, this is the wine to
taste to understand Pallagrello Bianco’s
pure varietal character. Soft and supple
in the mouth, the medium body proudly sports
clean flavors of ripe peach, dried citrus
fruit, honeysuckle, and walnut oil. A modest
vein of acidity pulls every element perfectly
into line.
FATTORIA LAILA
In 1990, Andrea Crocenzi took over the centuries-old
Fattoria
Laila, which sits in Corinaldo
in the hills of Le Marche. His wines reflect
his own charismatic personality: elegance
and exuberance! Important momentum was
added with the arrival of Lorenzo Landi,
a winemaker with international experience
who has helped Andrea focus on a style
unique to this winery. The indigenous Verdicchio
and Montepulciano are cultivated here under
strict limits in the vineyard in order
to craft excellent wines.
Laila 2002 Verdicchio Lailum $25.85
For the Lailum, Lorenzo harvests late and
then barrel ferments to produce an extra
rich bottling. Straight out of the bottle,
even the color suggests something special:
it is a deeper shade of gold than is typical
of Verdicchio. This wine goes a long way
in showing the full potential of this indigenous
variety as one of Italy's most promising
whites. Notes of ripe grapefruit and tangerine
accented by dried herbs and toasted almonds
lead into an opulent mid-palate sustained
by sturdy acidity.
Click
to read about more featured producers!
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A Taste
of Italy Sampler
This
week’s
offering from IWM is a great opportunity to explore
the wines of Italy with a six-pack (1 of each)
or a case (2 of each). The bottles from La Rasina
and Cima show the range of Sangiovese, from the
ripe 1999 Montalcino vintage to the unique blend
with the obscure Massaretta grape; the two examples
of Aglianico from Campania and Basilicata reveal
the influence that the volcanic soil has on the
rugged "nebbiolo of the South," and
the two indigenous
whites further demonstrate
the diversity of quality
white wine in Italy.
This is a great way to taste Italy.
La Rasina 1999 Brunello $57.48
Cima 2001 Romalbo $44.00
Molettieri 1999 Taurasi Riserva $57.75
Elena
Fucci 2001 Aglianico Titolo $38.78
Vestini
Campagnano 2003 Pallagrello Bianco $38.36
Laila 2002 Verdicchio Lailum $25.85
IWM Taste of Italy Six-Pack (6) $262.22*
IWM Taste of Italy Case Sampler (12) $482.48*
*Free delivery to NYC residents
Click
to order your Taste of Italy Sampler!
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Thousand Year
Old Abbey Turns Villa
Here
at IWM we are often asked for recommendations
on "where to stay" and "what
to see" while in Italy. There are
hundreds of options, but an excellent starting
point is Villa Montecastello in Tuscany,
especially if you are looking to do a wine
tour of the region.
Villa Montecastello is the vision of Jens
and Ruth Schmidt (who also specialize in
importing the wines of many small artisanal
producers). They have restored a thousand
year old castle in an attempt to revive the
art of hospitality in this little hamlet
between Siena and San Gimignano. The Villa
offers a lovely, serene retreat in the idyllic
countryside of Tuscany. This beautifully
restored castle still manifests its history
as a medieval fortress and, later, as a monastery
that welcomed pilgrims along with traveling
soldiers and merchants.
The space now is truly geared
for the enthusiast of fine wine and food,
as the castle offers
accomomdations for lodging, private wine
lessons, and customized cooking classes.
The hosts will also arrange trips to wineries
throughout Italy, with Jens acting as guide
in the vineyard, cellar, and tasting room.
Villa Montecastelli serves as a central
resting point for visits to Siena, Florence,
San Gimignano, Montalcino, and the Chianti
zones.
Click
to learn more on this Tuscan Villa!
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