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IWM e-Letter: January 20, 2005
Tuscan Villa & Italy's Artisanal Producers

In this Issue:
• From Aglianico to Verdicchio...
• Sangiovese's Range
• The Volcanic Aglianico

 

and more:
100% Indigenous Whites
• A Taste of Italy Sampler

• Thousand Year Old Abbey Turns Villa

From Aglianico to Verdicchio...

Italy’s tiny wine producers represent the heart and soul of the Boot. These wineries are generally just below the radar, often producing wine(s) from vineyards of only 2 - 10 hectares with an annual output of 400 or so cases - all done with a staff of two or three. Many of these small handcrafted wines are difficult to find in the States.

Today, IWM is offering the latest bottling from many of these artisanal favorites for a "Taste of Italy." Each wine is truly a reflection of their terroir, whether it be the fish-friendly Verdicchio from the seaside region of Le Marche or the volcanic Aglianico found outside the eruptive Mt. Vesuvius, these wines are rare treats at approachable prices. Be sure to experience the recent bottling of Pallagrello Bianco, the obscure and ancient Roman varietal rediscovered by Vestini Campagnano. Over the past year, the single varietal wine, unaided by the use of oak, has become a favorite at IWM tastings.

If you are interested in exploring Toscana as well as Italy's great artisanal producers, IWM recommends a visit to Villa Montecastelli. Read below to learn more on this historic abbey and our selected artisans of the week. Should you have any questions or would like to order these wines, please contact our Portfolio Managers at 212.473.2323.

Click for more wines from IWM!

Sangiovese's Range

LA RASINA
This tiny family estate, located just outside the ancient city walls of Montalcino, was founded by Santi Mantengoli in the early 1970’s. When his son Vasco took on an important role in the following decade La Rasina became more earnestly focused on winemaking, and the 1988 vintage saw their first Brunello di Montalcino. Almost ten years later, Vasco’s son Marco came to the forefront, introducing modern techniques that further improved the family wines.

La Rasina 1999 Brunello di Montalcino $57.48
Ruby-garnet color. Spicy fruit entertains the nose. The robust palate fills the mouth with a solid core of blackberries and cherries adorned with cinnamon and other sweet spices. A lasting finish.

CIMA
Cima is located above Carrara in the Candian Hills; found between the sea and the legendary Apuani Alps in northwestern Tuscany, this range is home to an extraordinary microclimate of cool, breezy summers and mild winters. The Cima family (literally "the top") has worked their steep terraced vineyards entirely by hand since their first winemaking ventures here in the 1800's. Vineyards were replanted on the terraces in the 1970's with the help of specialists who chose to use every square foot of this valuable land by planting at an unusual density of 10,000 vines per hectare.

Cima 2001 Romalbo $44.00
A tiny vineyard supplies this wine’s Sangiovese and Massaretta from its poor soil of stony, decomposed schist yielding very low but intense crops. The unique Romalbo is entirely barrique aged: 80% in new oak and 20% in second-use. The flavor explosion starts with an intense mixture of overripe blackcurrants and blackberries, followed by a very silky, then powerful and broad development in the mid-palate. The lingering finish is loaded with minerals. A rare and wonderful wine that is truly delicious, lush, and dense.

Click here for more Tuscan greats!

The Volcanic Aglianico

SALVATORE MOLETTIERI
The Molettieri family has long passed their small plot of land and their wisdom from father to son, giving the current generation a solid base on which to build quality production. It was only in 1995, however, that Salvatore and his son Giacomo started bottling their own wine rather than selling the grapes; they have not faltered since in their swift ascent through the ranks to become one of Campania's top producers. ‘Cinque Querce,’ in the hills of Irpinia, is considered one of the best sites for the native Aglianico di Taurasi (“the Nebbiolo of the South”) given its argillous-calcareous soil and drastic temperature fluctuations from day to night.

Salvatore Molettieri 1999 Taurasi Riserva $57.75
Salvatore Molettieri 1998 Taurasi Riserva $52.25

From the great Taurasi vintages of 1998 and 1999, this bottle pours a deep ruby red. Delicate aromas of red fruit and spices are followed by a warm, meaty palate with leather and a dash of mint. Austere yet generous, with notable tannins, good balance, and a persistent finish. Like Barolo, this wine will reward patience.

ELENA FUCCI
When he began producing simple wines on this land, Generoso Fucci was still a tenant farmer of Villa Rotondo; but in 1970 he seized an opportunity to make it his own. He divided the land with the Paternoster family and started the estate that is now run by his grandson, Nicola, and named for Nicola’s daughter Elena. The three hectares currently planted with vines are in the viticultural nucleus of Vulture at 650 meters of altitude. The soil here is pure black volcanic ash and lava, from which the Fucci family now produces Aglianico del Vulture 'Titolo,' one of southern Italy’s great wine discoveries.

Elena Fucci 2001 Aglianico 'Titolo' $38.78
This mouth-filling Fucci wine is softer and less aggressive than Molettieri's Taurasi, which carries more tannic muscle. Nevertheless, the dark Titolo will bite. Effusive flavors of graphite and ash, reflective of the "Pozzolana" volcanic lava soils of the vineyard. Cherries, red currants, tobacco and rosemary pack onto the palate. Rich and full-bodied with a judicious blend of old and new oak. Juniper and wood spice carry through on the lingering finish.

Click for more on Campania and Basilicata!

100% Indigenous Whites

VESTINI CAMPAGNANO
In north central Campania, a land of great wines since Roman times, lawyers Giuseppe Mancini and Alberto Barletta have developed their passion for indigenous, historical grapes with a concentration on the Pallagrello and Casavecchia varieties. With the aid of esteemed enology professor Luigi Moro, they have been awarded recognition by both Luigi Veronelli and the Gambero Rosso, two of Italy’s foremost wine publications.

Vestini Campagnano 2003 Pallagrello Bianco $38.36
Without oak influence, this is the wine to taste to understand Pallagrello Bianco’s pure varietal character. Soft and supple in the mouth, the medium body proudly sports clean flavors of ripe peach, dried citrus fruit, honeysuckle, and walnut oil. A modest vein of acidity pulls every element perfectly into line.

FATTORIA LAILA
In 1990, Andrea Crocenzi took over the centuries-old Fattoria Laila, which sits in Corinaldo in the hills of Le Marche. His wines reflect his own charismatic personality: elegance and exuberance! Important momentum was added with the arrival of Lorenzo Landi, a winemaker with international experience who has helped Andrea focus on a style unique to this winery. The indigenous Verdicchio and Montepulciano are cultivated here under strict limits in the vineyard in order to craft excellent wines.

Laila 2002 Verdicchio Lailum $25.85
For the Lailum, Lorenzo harvests late and then barrel ferments to produce an extra rich bottling. Straight out of the bottle, even the color suggests something special: it is a deeper shade of gold than is typical of Verdicchio. This wine goes a long way in showing the full potential of this indigenous variety as one of Italy's most promising whites. Notes of ripe grapefruit and tangerine accented by dried herbs and toasted almonds lead into an opulent mid-palate sustained by sturdy acidity.

Click to read about more featured producers!

A Taste of Italy Sampler

This week’s offering from IWM is a great opportunity to explore the wines of Italy with a six-pack (1 of each) or a case (2 of each). The bottles from La Rasina and Cima show the range of Sangiovese, from the ripe 1999 Montalcino vintage to the unique blend with the obscure Massaretta grape; the two examples of Aglianico from Campania and Basilicata reveal the influence that the volcanic soil has on the rugged "nebbiolo of the South," and the two indigenous whites further demonstrate the diversity of quality white wine in Italy. This is a great way to taste Italy.

La Rasina 1999 Brunello $57.48
Cima 2001 Romalbo $44.00
Molettieri 1999 Taurasi Riserva $57.75
Elena Fucci 2001 Aglianico Titolo $38.78
Vestini Campagnano 2003 Pallagrello Bianco $38.36
Laila 2002 Verdicchio Lailum $25.85

IWM Taste of Italy Six-Pack (6) $262.22*
IWM Taste of Italy Case Sampler (12) $482.48*
*Free delivery to NYC residents

Click to order your Taste of Italy Sampler!

 

Thousand Year Old Abbey Turns Villa

Here at IWM we are often asked for recommendations on "where to stay" and "what to see" while in Italy. There are hundreds of options, but an excellent starting point is Villa Montecastello in Tuscany, especially if you are looking to do a wine tour of the region.

Villa Montecastello is the vision of Jens and Ruth Schmidt (who also specialize in importing the wines of many small artisanal producers). They have restored a thousand year old castle in an attempt to revive the art of hospitality in this little hamlet between Siena and San Gimignano. The Villa offers a lovely, serene retreat in the idyllic countryside of Tuscany. This beautifully restored castle still manifests its history as a medieval fortress and, later, as a monastery that welcomed pilgrims along with traveling soldiers and merchants.

The space now is truly geared for the enthusiast of fine wine and food, as the castle offers accomomdations for lodging, private wine lessons, and customized cooking classes. The hosts will also arrange trips to wineries throughout Italy, with Jens acting as guide in the vineyard, cellar, and tasting room. Villa Montecastelli serves as a central resting point for visits to Siena, Florence, San Gimignano, Montalcino, and the Chianti zones.

Click to learn more on this Tuscan Villa!

Store Information:
Italian Wine Merchants
108 East 16th Street
New York, NY 10003
Phone: 212.473.2323
Fax: 212.473.1952
sergio@italianwinemerchant.com

© 1999 Italian Wine Merchants All rights reserved.

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Note: Prices and availability are subject to change.
IWM is not responsible for typographical errors.