and more:
• Aldo Conterno
• Vintage Babbo with IWM
• Castello dei Rampolla

A Note from Sergio

Today I’m writing you from Italy, where I’ve come to taste the ’01 Montalcinos and the ’03 Super Tuscans. I’m reminded of a trip I took last year, and the two wines I found to be surprisingly excellent: Il Poggione’s Brunello di Montalcino and Colpetrone’s Sangrantino di Montefalco.

For years, I had been a fan of Pierluigi Talenti, the brilliant winemaker who brought Il Poggione into the spotlight, but since his death in 1999, I hadn’t been convinced that the Brunellos, now made by a Talenti apprentice named Fabrizio Bindocci, were of the highest quality. But in 2003, Bindocci invited me to a dinner at his home. As his wife cooked, he opened a range of truly impressive bottles.

Last year, I wanted to revisit his winery. I drove my rental car from the airport in Roma up to Toscana until I reached San Angelo in Colle, a small town southwest of Montalcino. Bindocci—an unsmiling man with a thick black mustache—greeted me at his estate. He walked me through his winery. We then went to to Trattoria il Pozzo, a bare, 40-seat establishment in the middle of a tiny piazza. There, we were served the best regional cuisine in all of Montalcino: pinci, a thick round noodle covered in boar ragu, and bisteca fiorentina, a four inch-thick florentined t-bone. Bindocci began to open his wines. When I drank Talenti’s ’78 Brunello, I remembered why I had once loved the house so much. The rest of the wines were good as well; forceful yet delicate, their great acidity and firmness stood up to the big dishes we were eating. The ’82 Rosso di Montalcino was one of the best bottles I had last year. Rosso di Montalcino typically lasts no longer than two years. Astoundingly, this 22 year old bottle was as structured and powerful as any.

Next, I took off for the town of Porano in Umbria to meet some friends at a small restaurant named Il Boccone del Prete—a cave-like space carved into the rocky mountainside. My friends had brought me a couple of bottles of wine from the Colpetrone estate. As I ate bruschetta with freshly pressed olive oil, chick pea soup, and grilled mixed meats, I tasted the Sagrantino. I had tried Colpetrone wines plenty of times but always dismissed them. Like many, the estate had trouble with the finicky Sagrantino grape, the harsh tannins of which can usually only be balanced by the sugar of sweet wines. But recently, Colpetrone had hired the young, talented consultant Lorenzo Landi, and his work was finally showing through: the Sagrantino was perfectly balanced, full, generous, and approachable.

These two wines were, unexpectedly, among the best I found last year. I hope that in a week, I’ll return to the States having made some similarly exciting discoveries—and with some similarly excellent wines.

My best,
Sergio Esposito

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Il Poggione

Like Biondi-Santi, Costanti, and Colombini, the late Pierluigi Talenti is one of the great producers in the short history of Brunello di Montalcino. His Il Poggione estate has consistently delivered exceptional quality at good prices and in doing so has become a favorite of educated wine buyers. Il Poggione lies in the Colle, the southern central section of the Montalcino zone. The Francheschi family has owned the estate’s 100 hectares of prime vineyards around the historic village of Sant’Angelo since 1890, but the vines only began to live up to their full potential in 1958, when Leopoldo Franceschi enlisted Romanian agricultural expert Pierluigi Talenti. Over the next 40 years, beginning with the 1965 release, Il Poggione became synonymous with classic, elegant, powerful Brunello. Though Talenti passed away in 1999, Fabrizio Bindocci—who spent more than two decades at Talenti’s side—carries on the tradition of excellence.

Il Poggione 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $47.93
This signature wine is made from Sangiovese Grosso grapes that grow on a 48 hectare plot 200 to 400 meters above sea level. The 2000 is less acidic, less tannic, and more approachable than the 1999. This traditional Brunello, which is more youthful than its neighbors, is a great value.

Il Poggione 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $74.32
The Riserva is created only in top vintages from a choice selection of grapes and is consistently one of the finest wines of its genre. This full-bodied Brunello is youthful and powerful, displaying layers of dark fruit and spice that are supported by bright acidity and chewy tannins. Over time, this cellar staple will prove its elegance.

Il Poggione 2003 Rosso di Montalcino $23.45
The Rosso, a scaled-down version of its siblings, is made only in certain vintages from the grapes not selected for the Riserva or the normale. The velvety wine, which tastes of dark fruit and spice and, is drinkable today.

Talenti - Pian di Conte
In 1980, Talenti acquired land just above the Il Poggione vineyards, dedicated 20 hectares of the property to vines, and established Talenti Pian di Conte. He spent his later years creating limited production Brunellos and Rossos and a blend known as Talenti. Today, his family continues to make these wines.

Talenti 1999 Brunello di Montalcino $114.75 (1.5L)
Talenti 1997 Brunello Riserva $180.00 (1.5L)
Talenti 1998 Brunello Riserva 'Paretaio' $71.99

Click for IWM's map and guide to Brunello di Montalcino

Còlpetrone

In 1995, the Saiagricola Group, the investment subsidiary of Italian insurance giant SAI that develops unknown, high-potential areas, established the Còlpetrone estate in Umbria’s Montefalco zone (other estates include Montalcino’s La Poderina and Montepulciano’s Fattoria del Cerro). At the time, the property covered five hectares of vineyards, but the first harvests were so satisfying that the group purchased several additional plots over the years. They now own 140 hectares, 60 of which are vineyards. Còlpetrone—the vineyards of which sit on lime-heavy argillaceous soil and enjoy a southeast exposure—quickly became known for its excellent rendering of the area’s traditional Sagrantino. The estate also produces an outstanding Sagrantino Passito and an excellent Rosso.

Còlpetrone 2001 Sagrantino di Montefalco $59.95
A prime representation of the unique Sagrantino di Montefalco. A sweet, spicy bouquet of red and black fruit overwhelms the senses as more dark fruit, garnished by minerals and vanilla, packs onto the dry palate. The wine is dense, tannic, powerful, concentrated, and elegant.

Còlpetrone 2003 Rosso di Montefalco $25.99
A serious contender for best Rosso di Montefalco. This purple-flecked, ruby-colored 70% Sangiovese-15% Sagrantino-15% Merlot blend is deep and smooth. Spiced raspberries and black cherries engage the nose and slide onto a pure palate with subtle earthy notes. A drop of vanilla and Balsamic vinegar over a sleek tannic backbone.

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Aldo Conterno

Aldo Conterno is widely known as “the King of Barolo.” Conterno began making wine with his father Giacomo and brother Giovanni in the 1950s. Unlike many of his contemporaries, Conterno had, through his military service, traveled outside of the Langhe; before joining the family business, he lived in the United States for three years, returning only when his uncle Franco died. From his journeys, Conterno gained an expansive outlook that has influenced his winemaking. In 1969, he established Poderi Aldo Conterno, an estate in Monforte d'Alba on the prized Bussia Soprana vineyard. The winery, which exclusively vinifies its own 25 hectares of grapes, makes excellent fruit-driven wines by following Conterno’s simple corporate policy: mix tradition with innovation to produce the highest quality wines.

Aldo Conterno 1997 Barbera d’Alba $34.95
Barbera is often drunk when young as its vibrant acidity makes it an ideal food wine. This 1997 Barbera, however, should appeal to those more adventurous enthusiasts, those who enjoy older drinks. The vibrant fruit has matured but the acidity and tannins remain, and the wine displays an earthiness not found in other Barberas.

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Vintage Babbo with IWM

Castello dei Rampolla Vertical
$495 per person
Monday, January 23, 2006
Though not as well known as Sassicaia or Solaia, the artisanal Super Tuscans made by the di Napoli family at Castello dei Rampolla are among the elite collectible reds from the region. Join us for a tasting that will include a stunning vertical of the rare 85% Cabernet Sauvignon-15% Petit Verdot blend Vigna d’Alceo and selected top vintages of the 95% Cabernet Sauvigon-5% Sangiovese blend Sammarco going back to the early 1980s.

How to Reserve
Contact Iman Dean at 917.715.3599 and specify which tasting you would like to attend. If you have questions, contact David Lynch at 212-614-8495 x110.

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Castello dei Rampolla

Though Castello dei Rampolla lacks the marketing prowess and glitz that have brought Sassicaia, Ornellaia, and Solaia worldwide fame, it remains one the most highly regarded wines of Toscana. The cellars of the Rampolla winery, near Panzano in central Toscana, date back to the 13th century. The vineyards, situated on 42 hectares of calcareous soil 360 meters above sea level, allow the Sangiovese to acheive vigor and potential for long-aging. With the help of enologist Giacomo Tachis, the di Napoli family combines biodynamic methods in the vineyard with its well-equipped modern cellars to produce world-class wines. The Chianti Classico accounts for approximately 100,000 bottles, two thirds of their total production. The remainder is divided among the Riserva, the Sammarco, and their white, Trebianco.

Castello dei Rampolla 2003 Vigna d’Alceo $179.00 (future arrival)
Castello dei Rampolla 2001 Vigna d’Alceo $179.00
In 1996, the di Napolis introduced Vigna d’Alceo (Alceo’s Vineyard) in homage to their late father. Each year, the estate produces only 20,000 bottles of this late September harvest blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Petit Verdot. The grapes for this cru wine are grown exclusively in the Alceo vineyard located in Greve, one of the five original townships for the production of Chianti. Saturated ruby-purple with a tiny clear rim. Graphite, blackberry, cassis, and maraschino cherries on the deep, potent nose. Black fruits, plum preserves, sweet oak, and licorice permeate the palate. Succulent and juicy, with abundant glycerin, round tannins, sufficient supporting acidity, and a lengthy finish.

Castello dei Rampolla Sammarco (please inquire)
Each year, Castello dei Rampolla produces only 30,000 bottles of this hand-crafted 95% Cabernet Sauvignon-5% Sangiovese. Saturated ruby streaked with dark purple. Taut and closed in youthful concentration. A stimulating bouquet of red plum, black currant, cigar, and lead pencil. The rich flavors lurking in the full-bodied palate precisely reflect the nose and finish long with ripe yet tongue-clenching tannins.

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