and more:
• Villa Carafa's Antique Varietals
• De Conciliis' Naima & Fiano
• Puglia's Primitivo & Salice Salentino

A Note from Sergio

Wine is no stranger to the South. Some of Italy's best and strongest grapes-Aglianico, Nero d'Avola, Primitivo-grow in the arid climate, and for years have been made into powerful wine. But you'd never know it; because Southerners have lacked both the economy and the good name necessary to successfully market wine themselves, they have been quietly selling their grapes to winemakers in the North and exporting them to France. The sole southern region that has consistently made world-class wines is Campania, an area now dominated by the talented Mastroberardino family.

But things are changing. In the last few decades, the lower corner of the Boot has been slowly pulling itself out of extreme poverty, aided by political changes in Napoli. Bolstered by investment, southern winemakers are beginning to restore old varietals and make quality wines. The rediscovery of thousands of archaeological breeds that date back to antiquity- many of them rescued from near-extinction-has helped the region shed its reputation as the producer of mediocre bulk wines. Now, the most adventurous enthusiasts are combing Campania, Basilicata, Sicilia, Sardegna, and Puglia, knowing that they'll find more than just the well-known big reds. Only the South, the Italian territory most under vine, offers such a wide range of gorgeous, exotic drinks. Only the South-once maligned and near ruin-has such deep winemaking potential.

When exploring the many wines of the South, however, it's important to remember that some vintners, desperate to sell to a sudden explosion of buyers, have slipped into a gold rush mentality-and with that comes some abuse. Today, I'm sending you a list of some beautiful southern wines, all selected in accordance with my strict guidelines.

My best,
Sergio Esposito

To share IWM with another enthusiast, just click the Tell-A-Friend link below!
Tell a Friend about IWM!

Aglianico by Elena Fucci

Aglianico is the noblest grape of the South. Though also cultivated in Puglia and Sicilia, it reaches its full potential in Campania (Aglianico del Taburno, Sannio Aglianico, Solopaca Aglianico, Benevento Aglianico, and Taurasi) and in Basilicata (Aglianico del Vulture). The centuries-old varietal most likely derives its name from Ellenico or Hellenico, an indication that the Greeks brought this grape to the Italic peninsula as early as 700 B.C. Of the many obscure varietals that hide in the nooks and crannies of the Boot, Aglianico is the most promising. In Campania's Taurasi the grape achieves its knighthood as the "Barolo of the South," but producers like Elena Fucci are bringing attention to desolate Basilicata.

When he began producing simple wines on this land, Generoso Fucci was still a tenant farmer of Villa Rotondo. But in 1970 he bought the land, divided it with the Paternoster family, and started his own estate. The three hectares of vines—now run by Fucci’s grandson Salvatore and named for Salvatore’s daughter Elena—are planted on pure volcanic ash and lava soil in the viticultural nucleus of Vulture at 650 meters of altitude. There, the Fucci family produces Aglianico del Vulture 'Titolo,' one of southern Italy's great wines.

Elena Fucci Aglianico del Vulture Titolo
This mouth-filling Fucci wine is softer and less aggressive than Taurasi and Basilicata's traditionalist Paternoster, which generally carry more tannic muscle. Nevertheless, the dark Titolo will bite. Effusive flavors of graphite and ash, reflective of the pozzolana volcanic lava soils of the vineyard. Cherries, red currants, tobacco, and rosemary pack onto the palate. Rich and full-bodied with a judicious blend of old and new oak. Juniper and wood spice carry through on the lingering finish.

Elena Fucci 2002 Aglianico Titolo $54.45
Elena Fucci 2003 Aglianico Titolo $54.45
Elena Fucci 2003 Aglianico Titolo $89.10 (1.5L)

Click for more big reds

Rare Grapes Resurrected by Alois

Many generations of the Alois family have worked in the silk business; their name is known to guarantee high-quality textiles, and their products have been displayed in the Louvre, the Vatican, the Quirinale (home of the president of Italy), and the White House. In the early 20th century, the company, like most of its kind in Europe, provided food and wine for its employees, and the perceptive owners realized that they could at once save money and provide superior wine if they made the drink themselves. Thus began the Alois cellar.

In 2000, Michele Alois released the family wines to market for the first time under the estate name of Pontepellegrino. These first releases showed the promise of great things to come. With Nicola Trabucco overseeing the vineyards and Riccardo Cotarella orchestrating cellar work, the estate has already received plaudits from the press. And the estate, which now bears the family name, only improves with each new release.

Alois Pallagrello Bianco Caiatì
Pallagrello Bianco is an extremely obscure varietal—less well-known than even Fiano, Greco di Tufo, and Falanghina. Often confused with the rare Coda di Volpe, Pallagrello Bianco is one of the few Italian grapes that has a black sibling grape (Pallagrello Nero). This is an elegant wine showing golden yellow with green highlights. The delicate nose of apricot and orange blossoms breezes onto a dry, fresh palate of pears and blushing peaches. Pleasant and playful.

Alois 2004 Pallagrello Bianco Caiatì $22.28

Casavecchia
At the turn of the 20th century, a massive grandfather vine with a trunk measuring a yard in diameter remained nestled at the foot of an old stone farmhouse. A figure of strength, the Casavecchia vine had survived the disease and phylloxera that plagued Italy through the ages. With support from Luigi Veronelli, Italy’s leading food and wine critic, this wine has received much attention for its distinctive flavors and full-bodied complexity.

100% Casavecchia. A powerful dram of plums and black fruit with wisps of sweet spice and refreshing eucalyptus. Muscular and concentrated.

Alois 2003 Trebulanum $36.05

Alois Campole
The intricate grace of the Casavecchia (30%) slides over the unleashed power of the Aglianico (70%). Licorice and black and purple fruit burst on the nose and palate with hints of nuts and dark flowers. Full and concentrated, with textured tannins and a long finish. A beautifully loyal expression of the terroir.

Alois 2004 Campole $22.28

Click for recent offers from IWM

Villa Carafa's Antique Varietals

In the time of the Romans wines from Campania were considered the best in the world, but the region's reputation was then buried by the all-too-common fate of low-quality mass production. Antonio Mastroberardino reawakened the region with the release of his outstanding 1968 Taurasi Riserva. In addition to producing Taurasi, the region produces the magical Montevetrano and has also been steadily reclaiming its former glory by resurrecting antique varietals. Thanks to the dedication of producers like Villa Carafa, we can now enjoy these once forgotten treasures.

Villa Carafa is in Caserta, a province that, because of its outstanding volcanic soil and indigenous varietals, has recently emerged into the public eye. The Caputo brothers, guided by dynamo enologist Lorenzo Landi, run the estate. With additional vineyards scattered throughout Campania, this wine house truly has some fantastic offerings.

Villa Carafa Aglianico
Sannio is the viticultural area in Caserta with the largest acreage dedicated to Aglianico. Here at Villa Carafa, enologist Lorenzo Landi ferments wine under strict guidelines in order to bring out the full potential of the powerful Aglianico. Intense shades of purple and ink fill the glass, and the wine releases aromas of spicy fruit. On the palate the fruit opens further into notes of soft plum, crushed blackberry, and black pepper, which are held in check through ample tannin and acidity.

Villa Carafa 2001 Aglianico Sannio $14.85

Fruit for the estate’s higher-end Aglianico is grown near the sea, a landscape that provides a more refined wine. The ruby red opens with strong, smoky aromas of dark fruit. Minerals streak across spice, berries, and cocoa on the concentrated palate. Smooth tannins support the powerful body.

Villa Carafa 2002 Aglianico Sannio Zinè $24.20

Villa Carafa Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio
Perhaps the most mythical of all wine folklore is that of "Christ's tears," or Lacryma Christi. The three grape varietals that make up this wine-Aglianico, Sciascinoso, and Piedirosso-grow in the volcanic soil on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius. According to Italian legend, when Lucifer was cast from Paradise he managed to take a piece of Heaven with him. As the fallen angel descended, the sacred piece of Paradise dropped into in the Gulf of Naples. The Lord wept and his tears fell upon the earth between Vesuvius and Sorrento, and life was thus given to the vines. A similar local legend attributes the vineyard-producing tears to Bacchus, the Roman god of wine. Cherries and ripe plum fill the nose, while hints of spice and clove round out the palate with character for this food friendly everyday wine.

Villa Carafa 2001 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio $19.85

Click for more wines that scream Italy

De Conciliis' Naima & Fiano

Bruno De Conciliis capitalizes on southern exposure and ancient soils in the ripe climate of the Cilento zone of Campania to produce full-bodied, fruit-driven wines that are more approachable than the austere Taurasi. His signature wine is the majestic Naima (named after the John Coltrane song-Bruno plays jazz in his cellars to keep his wines happy), but De Conciliis makes a range of Aglianicos (Zero-a modern, elegant, limited production wine-caters to the collectors' market). He also produces wines outside this market which can be enjoyed at contained prices. See below for Mille Una, De Conciliis' collaborative effort in Puglia.

De Conciliis Naima
Pure Aglianico. This sought-after red, like the eponymous song, delivers an intense and elegant performance. This is the signature wine of De Conciliis and a perennial favorite at IWM tastings. Clear, dark ruby red heralds rich, smoky berries and chocolate that entice the nose. Powerful fruit deepened by dark notes of spice and wood harmonize on the palate, with soft tannins in the background. Seductive and warm, soft but well-maintained by elegant tannins, the wine glides through the mouth, balanced and persistent, leaving a long, spicy finish. The wine’s immense personality will continue to improve over the next several years.

De Conciliis 2003 Naima $66.00

De Conciliis Fiano Perella
Fiano may be the most interesting white grape of the South. This aristocratic varietal, once praised by the Romans, was recently awarded Italy's highest wine classification: Fiano di Avellino DOCG. According to the Mastroberardino estate, the grape was facing near extinction until the Mastroberardinos saved it. Some say the name 'Fiano' implies that bees are attracted to the sweet fruit; others believe the name is derived from a type of apple, which, along with herbs, smokiness, and hazelnuts (another popular crop of the region), is a signature note. The grape proves that there are ageable white wines coming out of the South. Ripe, full, and fleshy.

De Conciliis 2003 Fiano Perella $24.75

Click for more obscure whites

Puglia's Primitivo & Salice Salentino

MILLE UNA
Mille Una was born in 2001 when Dario Cavallo, Michele Schifone, Bruno de Conciliis, and Saverio Petrilli acquired 12 hectares in the heart of Tarantino. In the past four years, the group has leased an additional 18 hectares. Mille Una is now one of Puglia’s top producers and a leading force in the region’s transition from bulk wine production to quality bottlings. Their line comprises four bottlings of Primitivo and one of Negroamaro, all of which are pure varietal wines from native grapes.

Primitivo
This Italian grape is famous in America for its supposed genetic relationship to the red Zinfandel (a theory that has now been disproven). While thinner-skinned, the Primitivo fruit does share many of Zinfandel’s characteristics: soft tannins, opulent fruit, notes of spice, and a high alcohol content. Despite its high alcohol, Primitivo ripens early and is picked in mid- to late August. The grape performs at its best in the DOC zone of Manduria, where it is always made into a pure varietal wine.

A full, distinctly southern wine with bold red berries dipped in cocoa. Rich and structured.

Mille Una 2001 Primitivo del Salento Majarà $16.50

Overwhelming aromas of liqueur with undertones of fresh anise and plenty of fruit. Big and meaty, with velvety tannins and a lasting finish.

Vinicola Resta 2001 Primitivo di Manduria $16.95

VINICOLA RESTA
For a full century the Resta family toiled in the vineyards of Puglia only to see their wine shipped north to Toscana for bottling. In 1970, they began to bottle all wine themselves to ensure that it would not be compromised before reaching the consumer. Though their native grapes were little-known and many of their neighbors produced masses of low-quality wines, the Resta family remained committed to making a gorgeous drink, and over time, their wines gained international acclaim. Today, Resta and Mille Una are among the few estates that show us the great potential of Puglia’s land and local varietals.

Vinicola Resta Rosso ‘Vigna del Gelso Moro’
Some believe that the thick-skinned Negroamaro, a deep purple grape that thrives in the difficult conditions of the far South, is related to the Greek vine Xinomavro. Others believe it is indigenous to Puglia. Regardless, the Negroamaro can produce denser and more structured wines than its compeer Primitivo. This pure varietal IGT wine shows a lively ruby red offering up a bounty of juicy fruit. The easy palate piles layers of cherries over darker notes of blackberries and a touch of charred vanilla bean. Full and vivid, with a lasting finish.

Vinicola Resta 2001 Rosso ‘Vigna del Gelso Moro’ $14.95

Vinicola Resta Salice Salentino
Salice Salentino is Puglia’s most internationally recognized traditional wine. This Negroamaro-based wine unabashedly flaunts its southern blood, showing bold flavors developed by the warm Mediterranean sun. The 20% Malvasia Nera contributes a more refined, perfumed touch that balances Negroamaro’s macho character to create a well-balanced blend. Fresh wildflowers and a few filberts are strewn across ripe dark fruit. Very full and pleasantly jammy on the palate, with an abundance of berries and plums and a drop of vanilla. Good tannins and a very long finish.

Vinicola Resta 2001 Salice Salentino $15.95

Click to shop IWM online