WINE NEWS /
Sagrantino emerges as Italy's rising star
Often compared to Piemonte's
Nebbiolo, although heartier and darker in color, Sagrantino di
Montefalco DOCG (or Montefalco Sagrantino) from Umbria is rapidly
becoming one of Italy's most coveted and collectible red wines (see
Sergio's recent note on Umbria and Central Italy here).
Sagrantino grapes have traditionally been vinified
as a passito or dried-grape wine. Many believe that the name Sagrantino
(from sacramento or "sacrament") can be attributed to the
fact the grape was cultivated by the Franciscans, whose order was
founded in Umbria during the 13th century by St. Francis of Assisi
and who used the sweet wine in their mass.
Historically, Umbria has been best known for its
production of white wines—in particular those from Orvieto.
It was not until 1992 that Sagrantino di Montefalco (made from grapes
grown in the township of Montefalco) became a DOCG wine. The appellation
covers both Sagrantino Secco or dry (with a minimum alcohol content
of 13° and a min. aging period of 30 months, of which 18 at least
must be in cask) and Sagrantino Passito (with min. alcohol content
of 14.5° and a min. aging period of 30 months). It is no wonder
that the varietal was commonly used for sweet wine: the Sagrantino
grape has a remarkably thick skin that makes it ideal for drying on
the vine or on mats. In some respects, the story of Sagrantino is
not unlike that of Amarone, which originated as a passito wine, Recioto,
and was later developed into a dry wine as tastes began to change
(Amarone
made its first appearance in 1938, more than 50 years before Sagrantino
di Montefalco Secco).
Sagrantino di Montefalco is always remarkably dark
in color, with hints of violet. On the nose, it should present blackberry
and wild fruit, prune preserves, licorice, and dried roses. With aging,
it can achieve complex aromas of leather, cinnamon, clove, eucalyptus,
and tobacco.
Related wines and links: Umbria,
Bea, Caprai,
Lamborghini.
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