WINE NEWS /
VINUM studies ancient varietals and technology
The Associazione Nazionale Città del Vino
(National Association of Wine Cities), the University of Siena, and
the University of Milan have launched an ambitious project to study
indigenous varietals and ancient winemaking technology in Toscana
and northern Lazio where Italy's oldest inhabitants, the Etruscans,
thrived in antiquity.
The project, entitled VINUM (Latin for "wine"),
seeks to identify varietals cultivated in Etruria and to expand knowledge
of early winemaking technology through archeological excavation and
genome research. (The study coincides with the Italian government's
program slated for this fall, Cibi e Sapori nell'Italia Antica or
"Foods and Flavors in Ancient Italy.")
As more and more winemakers and winelovers favor
indigenous grapes, the VINUM study will aid enologists in identifying
and protecting Italy's unique varietals. It is hoped that new varietals
will emerge as DNA is extracted from artifacts discovered at archeological
sites.
The project was inspired in part by the success of
Campania winemaker
Mastroberardino's
Villa dei Misteri project ("Villa of Mysteries," named after
a villa in Pompeii where prostitutes performed a ceremonial wine initiation).
In the late 1990s, Mastroberardino partnered with scientists to extract
DNA from amphorae unearthed at Pompeii. Researchers identified the
varietals as progenitors of Piedirosso and Sciascinoso. Through a
process of grafting with living vines, the DNA was used to grow vines
on the site of an ancient vineyard in Pompeii, using Roman training
techniques adapted from ancient Latin texts. One of the most thrilling
finds was that Mastroberardino was able to employ ancient methods
for temperature-controlled fermentation. The wines were sold at auction
in 2003.
The VINUM and Villa dei Misteri projects are part
of a growing movement of winemakers who are exploring the secrets
of ancient winemaking technology and indigenous varietals, like the
many Campania cellars who are producing wines using ancient grapes
like Falanghina, Fiano di Avellino, and Aglianico.
In northern Italy, for example, famed Friulian winemaker
Josko Gravner
is using clay amphorae to ferment his juice in naturally cool underground
cellars. He has discovered that in some instances the ancient technology
is ideal for making the elegant wines his cellar is known for.
Related Wines and Links: De
Conciliis, Feudi di San Gregorio,
Galardi, Imparato,
Mastroberardino,
Salvatore Molettieri,
Terre del Principe,
Vestini Campagnano, Villa
Carafa.
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