Brunello: The Nectar of Kings,
Queens, and Popes
Brunello (the little
dark one) is a Tuscan dialect name for a particularly fine strain
of Sangiovese grown in Montalcino,
south of both Chianti and Siena. In this dryer, hotter, and
more Mediterrean climate of southern Tuscany, the limesone and
sand soil produce a muscular grape capable of making a rich,
dark, concentrated red (heavier and more tannic than Chianti).
Tongue-curling tannins and firm acidity allow these wines to
age, catching the eyes of wine collectors, Popes, Presidents,
Kings, and Queens.
It is the combination
of this specific clone, the agreeable climate, the low yield
guidelines set by the Consorzio (the regional governing
body, and the long aging requirements (four years, with at
least two in oak barrels) that contribute to great Brunello.
As an elite wine, Brunello
deserves special attention while aging and when poured. Like
all great aged wines, it is often a bit hard and unsociable
in its youth. However, Brunello becomes refined and harmonious
with time, taking on a velvety texture. Those with the discipline
to restrain themselves from uncorking these wines too early
are advised to keep their bottles in the cellar - away from
light, humidity, and extraneous smells. Sudden changes in temperature
must also be avoided, and bottles should not be moved or shaken.
When removing the bottle from storage, take care not to shake
the bottle as sediment will have collected on its bottom side.
Stand the bottle upright for one or two days in a cool place
before decanting and serving.
Understanding Montalcino
The ancient walled city of Montalcino, whose
name means "the mountain of the holm-oaks," has a
rich history that includes struggles against the Florentines
and the Spanish empire. This circular territory, delimited by
the Orcia, Asso, and Ombrone valleys, has a diameter of 16 kilometers
and a surface area of 24,362 hectares. As you will learn below,
there is no finer residence to extract complexity from the Sangiovese
grape. Click
for a detailed map (please allow a moment for the PDF file
to open).
While vineyards are believed to have graced
the rolling hills of Montalcino as early as the 10th century,
the history of Brunello di Montalcino is relatively short by
Italian wine standards. Many of the estates in the region trace
their lineage back several centuries, but Brunello is just 150
years old. Up until the 1500's the wine of the region was a
sweet white from the Muscat grape labelled Moscadello di Montalcino
and was followed by wines made from the traditional Tuscan varietals
Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Trebbiano, and Malvasia. The birth of
Brunello dates to the mid-1800's when Clemente Santi took an
isolated Sangiovese clone and planted the vines on what would
become the legendary family estate, Il Greppo.
With its growth, Brunello became recognized
as the ultimate expression of the Sangiovese grape in that it
combines power, concentration, complexity, and personality that
few Chiantis or Vino Nobile di Montepulcianos can match. However,
it is not the clone itself that is responsible for this. Among
the contributing factors are soil composition, climatic conditions,
altitudes, and ageing requirements set by the DOCG. In the Montalcino
zone the soil will generally contain more sand and limestone
than soils farther north in the region of Chianti. The climate
is another decisive factor, as there is a significant shift
from the damper, cooler, continental climate of Chianti Classico
to a more dry, heat-infused Mediterranean environment that is
cooled by air currents formed by the Montalcino hills and shelter
provided by Tuscany's highest peak, Mount Amiata. It is these
influences that enhance the muscularity of the Sangiovese grape,
in turn providing the characteristic rich, dark, concentrated
character of Brunello. The longevity of wines from this area
was tested by Clemente's grandson Ferruccio Biondi-Santi when
he laid down significant quantities of the 1888 and 1891 vintages.
These have proven their endurance through countless tastings,
even one hundred years after their bottling. While the Santi
family had this early vision, it wasn't until the 1960's that
Brunello began to show its grandeur thanks to the early efforts
of the Costanti estate and Giovanni Colombini of Fattoria dei
Barbi, among others.
The Montalcino production zone can be broken
down into a range of subzones. Within each there are variations
in altitude, soil composition, and weather patterns. In fact,
the Consorzio lists more than 24 distinct microclimates in the
area. In addition to this range of elements there is an array
of styles from each producer that make it difficult to examine
terroir in a side-by-side comparison. Use this
map and the introductory six pack
below as a guide to Brunello. Contact an IWM
Portfolio Manager for more specifics.
Be sure to read Sergio's
review of Brunello from the1999 vintage!
Brunello di
Montalcino in the Kitchen:
What should tourists
venturing up the hills of Montalcino, intent on tasting Brunello
and other local wines, expect to taste from the kitchen?
Above all, dishes made in the Tuscan tradition. Next to the
canapés of chopped liver and spleen or mushrooms appear finocchiata (a
salame containing fennel seeds), dried pork and wild-boar
sausages, raw ham, and salame. These antipasti pair well
with Rosso di Montalcino and other, lighter wines from the
area. Roast meats, salmi (a rich wine sauce, usually with
game), and cheeses also pair well with the wines of Montalcino.
Of course, Brunello is wonderful all by itself.
Brunellos
Recently Featured by IWM: (as of 03/22/05)
1974 Barbi Brunello Riserva $145.00
1990 Poggio
Antico Brunello Riserva (1.5L) $325.00
1995 Talenti Brunello Riserva $69.00
1997 Banfi Brunello Poggio all'Oro $98.50
1997 Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino (1.5L) $129.00
1997 Camigliano Brunello Riserva (1.5L) $160.00
1997 Camigliano Brunello Riserva (3.0L) $329.00
1997 Lisini Brunello Ugolaia (3.0L) $398.00
1997 San
Felice Brunello Campogiovanni $98.50
1997 Santa
Restituta (Gaja) Brunello Rennina $129.00
1997 Soldera Brunello Case Basse Ris. $299.00
1997 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino $94.00
1998 Antinori Brunello Pian delle Vigne $69.00
1998 Camigliano Brunello Gualto $82.00
1998 Due Portine - Gorelli Brunello di Montalcino $54.45
1998 La Serena Brunello di Montalcino (1.5L) $94.00
1998 Le Potazzine - Gorelli Brunello di Montalcino $60.51
1998 Lisini Brunello Ugolaia $89.50
1998 Santa
Restituta (Gaja) Brunello Rennina $105.00
1998 Santa
Restituta (Gaja) Brunello Rennina (1.5L) $225.00
1998 Santa
Restituta (Gaja) Brunello Sugarille (1.5L)
$260.00
1998 Soldera Brunello Case Basse Ris. $198.00
1998 Talenti Brunello di Montalcino $58.44
1998 Talenti Brunello Paretaio Riserva $71.99
1998 Tenuta la Fuga Brunello di Montalcino $59.00
1999 Camigliano Brunello
Selezione Gualto
$69.00
1999 Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino $39.50
1999 Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino $94.70
1999 Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino (1.5L) $199.95
1999 Ciacci
Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino $56.00
1999 Ciacci
Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino (1.5L)
$118.00
1999 Ciacci
Piccolomini Brunello Ris. $89.50
1999 Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino $47.99
1999 Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello Ris. $52.00
1999 Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello Ris. (1.5L)
$108.00
1999 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino $69.00
1999 Il Poggiolo Brunello Beato $84.00
1999 La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino $64.00
1999 La
Rasina Brunello di Montalcino $57.48
1999 Le Potazzine - Gorelli Brunello di Montalcino $70.13
1999 Livio Sassetti (Pertimali) Brunello Ris. $98.95
1999 Marchesi
de' Frescobaldi Brunello Castelgiocondo
$61.60
1999 Poggio
Antico Brunello di Montalcino $55.00
1999 Poggio
di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino $94.95
1999 Santa
Restituta (Gaja) Brunello Rennina $105.00
1999 Santa
Restituta (Gaja) Brunello Sugarille $125.00
1999 Solaria Brunello di Montalcino $54.00
1999 Soldera Brunello Case Basse $198.00
1999 Tenuta la Fuga Brunello di Montalcino $59.99
2000 Camigliano Brunello
di Montalcino $44.50
2000 Casanova di Neri Brunello Tenuta Nuova $59.95
2000 Casanova di Neri Brunello Tenuta Nuova (1.5L) $139.00
2000 Cerbaiona Brunello
di Montalcino $94.70
2000 Ciacci
Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino (375 ml) $32.00
2000 Ciacci
Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino $49.99
2000 Ciacci
Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino (1.5L) $109.00
2000 Costanti Brunello di Montalcino $59.00
2000 Donatella Cinelli Colombini
Brunello di Montalcino $44.50
2000 La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino $54.95
*To inquire about availability and pricing or for more
information, call Perry
Porricelli at 212.473.2323 or click
to order.
Recently Featured
Brunello Samplers:
Introduction to Brunello Six-Pack Sampler $338.49
- Il Palazzone 1995 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $83.16
- Argiano 1997 Brunello di Montalcino $69.95
- Pian delle Vigne 1998 Brunello di Montalcino $69.00
- Caparzo 1999 Brunello di Montalcino $39.50
- Lisini 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $49.99
- La Fornace 2001 Rosso di Montalcino $26.89
2000 Brunello
Six-Pack Sampler $357.60
- Cerbaiona 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $94.70
- Donatella C. Colombini 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $44.50
- Costanti 2000 Brunello Di Montalcino $59.00
- Casanova di Neri 2000 Brunello 'Tenuta Nuova' $59.95
- Camigliano 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $44.50
- La Poderina 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $54.95
1999 Brunello Riserva Six-Pack
Sampler $507.45
- Livio Sassetti 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $98.95
- Altesino 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $88.50
- Poggio Antico 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $89.50
- Donatella C. Colombini 1999 Brunello Riserva $52.00
- Lisini 1999 Brunello 'Ugolaia' Riserva $89.00
- Ciacci Piccolomini 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $89.50
Brunello Case Sampler $865.05
Try IWM's featured 2000 Brunello and 1999 Brunello Riserva
in a mixed case that includes one bottle of each wine from
both six-packs.
Sergio's Selected Producers: (Call
for availability)
