and more:
• Umbria's Cult-Like Blends
• Le Marche's Rolling Stone
• IWM in the Hamptons

A Note from Sergio

Central Italy has brought us great men and ideas throughout history, including Francis of Assisi, the patron saint of animals whose views and convictions are said to have been a product of his home region of Umbria; the great Renaissance master Raphael of Urbino (in Le Marche), whose mind and brush rendered the skillful portraits of Agnolo and Maddalena Doni and the inspiring frescoes of the Vatican's Stanza della Segnatura; and Ferruccio Lamborghini, whose personal hobby planted the seed for an estate with sleek wines that turn heads just as his sexy sports cars did. Gioacchino Rossini, born in Le Marche's Pesaro, left us delightful operas like Il barbiere di Siviglia and Otello, while Gabriele d'Annunzio's home region of Abruzzo inspired his powerful words that touched the world; and the great musical poetry of Bob Dylan returned the favor, inspiring greatness in one of Le Marche's most capable winemakers. Today we can enjoy the legacies of these laudable men over a box of Perugina Baci or while sipping one of the great wines of l'Italia Centrale.

Most importantly, it is here in the Lazio region that one man has proven to the "doubtful," myself included, that Italy has the ability not only to produce whites that can age (as we had already learned of the likes Movia and Valentini), but to compete alongside the celebrated wines of Burgundy. It should be noted that I have not included these white wines from Lazio in today's offer. The incredible story of Fiorano, “The Prince's Secret Wines,” is best captured at length in our March 17th edition and through an article published in The New York Times. To learn more on these wines and their fascinating story please click below. For more information on today's selected highlights from Umbria, Abruzzo, and Le Marche, please read on below or call an IWM Portfolio Manager at 212.473.2323.

My best,
Sergio

Click for the remarkable wines and story of Fiorano!

Abruzzo's "Lord of the Vines"

In the mountainous zone of East Central Italy, just east of Rome between the Adriatic and the Apennines, the Abruzzo region manages a simplified wine classification system with two principal offerings, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, from which the dry rose Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is also produced, and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. The region also has two claims to fame that parallel this pair of important appellations: it is the origin of the Montepulciano varietal, which has spread throughout central Italy, and home to Eduardo Valentini, one of Italy’s brilliant winemakers and the solitary producer of outstanding Trebbiano. In the past the region has focused on quantity rather than quality wine production, reaching the highest average grape yield in all of Italy. However, change has arrived with the ambitious Controguerra (meaning anti-war) zone adding other varietals to Abruzzo's menu and showing promise for the future. In addition, the subzone of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo centered around the city of Teramo has been anointed DOCG status: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramine DOCG. The blend here must be at least 90% Montepulciano, and the remainder consists of Sangiovese. At its best the Montepulciano grape is capable of producing wines of deep color, robust structure, and a supple roundness. Nevertheless, Abruzzo is all about Valentini, who remains among the most difficult collector wines to find in the U.S.

Eduardo Valentini - The Epitome of Obscurity
Some locals claim that the spirited Trebbiano d'Abruzzo is merely a new name for the once famed Campolese, and many of them refer to the vine as Bombino; both of these associations link it to Puglia's Bombino Bianco. There are further suggestions of a distinct clone that defies Trebbiano's long-held reputation for producing dreary, watery whites. In fact, this diamond in the rough is said to be exclusive to Eduardo Valentini, who is known locally as the “Lord of the Vines.” This resolute old-timer disregards all modern conventions and wraps his operations in a shroud of mystery, fervently guarding his production techniques from outsiders. His Trebbiano takes on uncommon colors, aromas, depth, complexity and ability to age. Valentini’s wines display a startlingly natural character, their individual quirks only enhancing their profound charm. Taking years to develop their full profile, the wines often need plenty of aeration to blow off the occasional hint of reduction. This all falls perfectly in step with one of Valentini’s favorite lines, “Natura non facit saltus” or “Nature doesn’t leap.”

Valentini 2003 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo $79.92 (future arrival)
Valentini 2001 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo $89.10
Valentini 1999 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo $76.08
Bright and warm yellow in the glass, the Trebbiano nose exudes honeyed fruit and mineral tones, and the palate flaunts remarkable fullness and elegance. Almost fat, yet magically equipped with underlying acidity to ensure long-term aging. Decant these to allow the compact layers to open up.

Valentini 2002 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo $77.55
This is Italy’s premier rose! It is aged a year and a half, including a period in cask, before its market debut. It is the Montepulciano grape that produces an alluring coral pink color and an evolved nose of nectarine and Mediterranean spice. Thick glycerin renders the palate almost heavy for a rose. Ripe morello cherries are streaked with vivid mineral character.

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Umbria's Robust Sagrantino

It truly represents the center of Italy. Landlocked and torn end to end by the Apennine mountains, Umbria rests under the shadow of neighboring giant Toscana. The sparsely populated region’s main attraction is the town of Assisi, home of the patron saint of animals and the environment. With regard to wine, Umbria's Orvieto has experienced highs and lows beginning with a sweet version that dates back to the Middle Ages and finding success in a present-day dry white version. Then in the seventies, the late Giorgio Lungarotti’s take on Torgiano became one of Italy’s most celebrated wines. But it is a little town 12 miles south of Torgiano that is now drawing the attention of wine enthusiasts worldwide: here in Montefalco we find the unique Sagrantino as well as a few cult-like blends of critical claim from Sportoletti and Lamborghini.

Although there are just 250 acres of Sagrantino vines in total, this relatively unknown wine is receiving much attention thanks to the relentless work and investment of Arnaldo Caprai and, of course, to Sagrantino’s full-bodied, lush blackberry personality. This variety, which is indigenous to Umbria, has captured the attention of collectors in recent years and taken its rightful place as a cellar piece next to Italy’s established collector’s hit list, which includes Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello di Montalcino, Amarone, Taurasi, and Super Tuscans. But Sagrantino does not begin and end with Arnaldo Caprai; as Dal Forno is to Quintarelli in the Veneto, Arnaldo Caprai is to Paolo Bea. Where Caprai represents the future of Sagrantino, Bea signifies the past. He is the quintessential artisanal producer, buried in a tradition that dates back to the early part of the 12th century. Today we are offering the latest vintages of Sagrantino in three different styles: the slick modern style of Arnaldo Caprai, the rustic handcrafted wines of artisan Paolo Bea, and, residing somewhere between these two schools, Terre de' Trinci.

Arnaldo Caprai
In the late 1980's a young Marco Caprai turned a family hobby into a radical movement, securing Umbria's place in the world of wine. Until that point Sagrantino was relatively unknown, as was the small hillside town of Montefalco. Marco took the lead and invested in the land, applying the results of painstaking research on the indigenous varietal. The result has brought international attention to the high- tech Montefalco estate and its slick, big red wines.

2001 Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni $94.50 – future arrival
2001 Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni $399.00 (3.0L) – future arrival
2000 Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni $210.00 (1.5L)
2000 Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni $420.00 (3.0L)
The Sagrantino di Montefalco Riserva 25 Anni is the result of Marco Caprai’s passionate research and careful clonal selection of the best grapes of Sagrantino. It is a jubilee wine produced for the first time in 1996 to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the winery. Since then it has kept this name together with its unique character, power, and elegance. Deep, dark purple-blackness fills the glass. Wild cherry and leather dominate the nose, accompanied by a hint of black pepper and tobacco. Still young on the palate, its elegance is highlighted by a soft and velvety body. Use of new barrels is evident by the spice and vanilla flavors. Very complex and long on the finish, with polished and sustaining tannins.

2001 Sagrantino “Collepiano” $54.95 – future arrival
2001 Sagrantino “Collepiano” $247.95 (3.0L) – future arrival
2000 Sagrantino “Collepiano” $115.00 (1.5L)
2000 Sagrantino “Collepiano” $245.00 (3.0L)
Collepiano is Sagrantino’s area of production, and its name refers to the gentle slopes that characterize the hills of the area. The wine symbolizes the “renaissance” of Montefalco as a wine zone and is made only from the Sagrantino grape, which in turn is only found here in Montefalco. Suave and sophisticated. A compelling nose of fresh evergreen and frutti di bosco. Rich berry fruit is accented by peppery spice on the palate. Dense extract and substantial tannin and alcohol strike the right balance.

Paolo Bea
Paolo Bea is the quintessential artisanal producer, whose tiny estate is the classic Italian fattoria. Driven by a sheer labor of love, his wines are still hand-crafted. Absent here is the industry's industrial revolution and media prowess; more evident are the roots in the land that the Bea family established in the early 1500s.

2000 Sagrantino di Montefalco Secco "Pagliaro" $78.26
The jewel in the crown of Umbria, composed exclusively of Sagrantino grapes left to macerate for an incredible 39 days. This signature wine from Bea has a deep, dark purple hue with a full, powerful nose of slightly raisined dark berries and smoke. Spicy notes adorn a lively palate of blackberry, currants, cinnamon, and clove. Mouth-filling yet warm and dense, this is a wonderfully smooth wine with tannins that are at once subtle and strong. The 2000 vintage in Montefalco produced unusually well-balanced wines that will remain so as they age and grow more complex.

Terre de' Trinci
The cooperative of Terre de' Trinci was founded in 1992 by growers who were displeased with other options and decided to ensure quality production by vinifying their own fruit. Pooling grapes from over 300 hectares, they now produce an admirable Sagrantino di Montefalco as well as a line of indigenous wines to which they have now added two local/international blends. Enologist Maurilio Chioccia is mindful of the area's heritage even as he tackles innovative new methods.

2000 Sagrantino di Montefalco Riserva "Ugolino" $50.15
The estate's latest bottling and a commendable addition to their line. Deep ruby red. Floral aromas, notes of black and purple fruit, and vanilla show on a clean, intense nose. Unobtrusive spices adorn a graceful palate with tobacco, licorice, and more dark fruit supported by muscular tannins. Potent but elegant, with a very persistent finish.

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Umbria's Cult-Like Blends

In addition to a host of local varietals that include Grechetto, Trebbiano, Sangiovese, and Sagrantino, Umbria is experimenting with the international varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc and adapting them to the local terrior to provide a different take on this classic Bordeaux trio. The two great representatives of Umbrian blends below have achieved cult-like status and critical acclaim. Both Sportoletti and Lamborghini incorporate the talent of winemaker Riccardo Cotarella, who has helped propel Imparato’s Montevetrano and Galardi’s Terra di Lavoro in Campania as well as Emilia-Romagna’s San Patrignano and others.

Lamborghini
Famed sports car manufacturer Ferruccio Lamborghini purchased vineyard land near Umbria's beautiful Lake Trasimeno in 1971. He planted a vineyard here and took up wine as a hobby. It was only a few years ago that his daughter Patrizia and reputed winemaker Riccardo Cotarella turned this hobby into a serious business and built what would become one of the most respected wineries of Umbria.

Lamborghini 2001 “Campoleone” $63.00
The “Campoleone” is produced in miniscule quantities. Made from equal parts of Merlot and Sangiovese, this unfined/unfiltered blend incredibly melds high extract and tight tannin with a rich flavor profile. The distinguished nose carries perfumes of saddle leather, fireplace smoke, figs, prunes, and plums. The same voluptuously rich, pervasive fruit carries through to the palate, culminating in a huge, explosive finish.

Lamborghini 2001 “Trescone” $13.95 – limited quantity
An approachable taste of Lamborghini through the blend of Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, and Merlot. Garnet red in color. An intense and driven nose that opens with rich fruit, red currants, and wild berries. An elegant wine, portraying finesse that is rarely rivaled. Medium- to full-bodied, there is ample fruit throughout the palate, leading to a long finish.

Sportoletti
The Sportoletti family intimately knew the land from decades of farming, so the decision to turn to wine production in 1979 was a smooth transition with an emphasis on quality. Their belief was that you must respect the unique characteristics of a land, such as the hilly nature of Umbria and the resulting terroir. Today this family business is run by Ernesto and Remo Sportoletti, who have turned it into one of the region's most respected wineries. The assistance of Riccardo Cotarella has also helped tremendously ever since he joined the team in the mid-1990’s. Vinification here is carried out in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, and the premium reds are refined in French oak. Fifty acres of vines are owned by this estate today, and they recently chose to renew their vines with new grape clones, adding to the already high quality of their wines.

Sportoletti 2001 Villa Fidelia $54.00
Here the Bordeaux trio of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc take on new characteristics from the Umbrian soils to create the flagship wine of the estate. Dense ruby/purple color. Loads of dark fruit aromas on the nose. Full bodied with particularly fine-grained tannins. Notes of chocolate and roasted espresso. A very long finish. 95 points from Robert Parker.

Sportoletti 2001 Assisi Grechetto $13.95
While this is not a blend, the native Grechetto has emerged as the quality white of the region and as a result is experiencing increased exposure in the makeup of the Orvieto blend, which also features Trebbiano, Verdello, and other grapes. This wine is a great example of how Grechetto can perform on its own and provide rich character with a nutty finish.

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Le Marche's Rolling Stone

North of Abruzzo and east of Umbria rests the underrated wine region of Le Marche. The most established white of this region comes from Verdicchio grown in the zones of Castelli di Jesi and Metauro. The premium red of the region is Rosso Conero, which is based primarily on Montepulciano. Its sibling Rosso Piceno is based primarily on Sangiovese with smaller percentages of Montepulciano incorporated. The Montepulciano grape (not to be confused with the noted Tuscan wine area) is capable of producing wines of deep color, robust structure, and supple roundness. In this region it excels, adding noble tannins and even more vigor. Selected producers like Le Terrazze have succeeded in blending this supreme grape with international varietals to create Le Marche’s greatest wines.

The Big Reds of Le Terrazze
Another exceptional wine story from Italy that is worth repeating. The iconic bohemian folk singer/poet meets the eccentric winemaker and groupie. Bob Dylan’s latest release, Fattoria Le Terrazze 2002 Planet Waves, is made not of poetry engraved on vinyl but of powerful, concentrated juice from Italy’s indigenous Montepulciano and the noble Merlot. The support does not come from rhythmic efforts of The Band, but instead from the passion of veteran winemaker Antonio Terni and the Le Terrazze estate. Terni is Le Marche’s most celebrated producer of quality Italian red wine, most notably the classic Montepulciano-based Rosso Conero and the super-Marchigiano blend "Chaos." Consistently breaking new ground, Antonio looked to create a spiritual wine that paid homage to his childhood hero. In 1997, Terni released the vintage- driven Rosso Conero “Visions of J.,” titled after the Bob Dylan song "Visions of Johanna." The wine went on to win critical acclaim, capturing the coveted Tre Bicchieri award and the palate of Bob Dylan himself. The result is the joint venture release of "Planet Waves." The maverick winemaker does not compromise quality for celebrity status: Terni creates the wine and Dylan endorses it. The limited production of high-quality fruit yielded just over 400 cases of this new wine, a testament to Terni's commitment to quality. Before the arrival of Visions of J., however, the dynamic producer has brought much acclaim to the historically underrated reds of Le Marche with the production of his reserve Rosso Conero and powerhouse blends. This can be attributed to more than a century of Terni winemaking and a dedication to cultivating the Montepulciano grape. Please note that only a few bottles remain in this offer, and the wines are available individually as well as in the collector’s case.

Le Terrazze 2001 Rosso Conero "Visions of J." $69.69
100% Montepulciano. A brilliant example of this rustic grape's power and concentration. Even denser than the Sassi Neri, this Rosso Conero is only produced in select vintages. Aged in barriques, it is a deep ruby/purple-colored wine with lots of glycerin, viscosity, and richness. On the nose sour cherry, vanilla, cocoa, sweet spices. Rich, warm, supple, well structured, ripe sweet tannins, fresh, pleasant, and long ending.

Le Terrazze 2002 Planet Waves $69.69
75% Montepulciano and 25% Merlot. This wine represents the debut collaboration of Antonio Terni and Bob Dylan. The grapes come from 20 hectares of vineyards, all part of the estate at Numana. The vineyards lie in the foothills of Monte Conero, about one km from the coast that brillantly fans the late-ripening Montepulciano. Terni describes the wine as “a mysteriously Dylan-esque encounter between the severity of Montepulciano and the softness of Merlot.”

Le Terrazze 2001 Chaos $49.89
50% Montepulciano, 25% Merlot, and 25% Syrah. This wine is an overwhelming favorite among IWM clientele, and it keeps getting better! The 2001 release captured the coveted Tre Bicchieri award. The blend is a powerful package with a deep purple hue, a wildly expressive nose, and a velvety smooth palate. The estate’s high elevation near the sea allows the grapes to deliver a wide range of flavors, including dried field flowers, ripe Morello cherry, French toast, and tobacco. The finish provides a long-lasting impact of unabated vinous pleasure.

Le Terrazze 2000 Rosso Conero "Sassi Neri" $43.73
This is the estate's reserve Rosso Conero. Only highly selected, low yield grapes are used to produce this full-bodied, velvety wine. Deep ruby red with garnet reflections. Intense, persistent; black currants and dried flowers with a hint of vanilla. Warm, well structured, well balanced, supple, fresh, long finish.

Le Marche's Verdicchio
The region of Le Marche is also renowned for its Verdicchio, a native varietal that has been cultivated here since the 14th century. The name is derived from "verde," which refers to its slight green hue, and it is often classified as the ultimate fish-friendly wine due to its crisp, delicate nature. However, the wine has transformed itself since the days when it was distinguishable for its unusual green, amphora-shaped bottle. Fortunately, the interpretations of individual winemakers are now shining through as several estates are producing crus and selected cuvees as well as intergrating barrel aging, as is evident in the Laila "Lailum" listed below.

Sartarelli
Sartarelli 01 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi “Balciana” $29.95
The best Verdicchio produced in Le Marche, as Sartarelli brings the classic form of this varietal to new heights. A late-harvest, low-yield bottling that benefits from extended aging before release. On the nose, this golden-yellow, hay-colored wine offers intense but elegant and clean notes of honey, hawthorn, and apricot followed by more delicate but equally seductive aromas of pineapple, chamomile, quince, and hazelnut. Soft, round, and fresh in the mouth, it is well balanced, with good body and a long finish of chamomile, pear, honey, and almond.

Sartarelli 03 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi “Tralivio” $14.85
Sartarelli’s Tralivio is vinified using carefully selected fruit from some of the estate’s oldest vines, where low yields are obtained through aggressive pruning. The hand-picked grapes undergo gentle pressing and temperature-controlled fermentation, resulting in a light, persuasive wine, balanced in flavor with sweet and aromatic notes.

Laila
Laila 2002 Verdicchio "Lailum" $25.85
From the Castelli di Jesi zone, late harvested, hand picked, and barrel fermented. Great care and contemplation are lavished on the grapes that make this fascinating take on Verdicchio. Straight out of the bottle, even the color suggests something special - it is a deeper shade of gold than is typical of the varietal. Heady with perfumes of tropical fruit and honeysuckle, voluptuous with an exuberant fruitiness and a round, mouth-filling texture. A fine, persistent finish.

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IWM in the Hamptons

Hamptons Wine & Food Festival
Featuring Sergio Esposito and Joe Bastianich
Hayground School, Bridgehampton, NY
Friday-Saturday, August 26-27
10am-8pm
Sure to be one of the summer’s most exciting culinary events, the first-ever Hamptons Wine and Food Festival features guided tastings, seminars, competitions, and cooking demonstrations by celebrity chefs, wine experts, and internationally acclaimed food personalities. IWM’s Sergio Esposito will lead an extensive tasting of Italy's Most Influential Wines (Sat., Aug. 27, 1PM), and Joe Bastianich will conduct a “Barolo vs. Brunello” tasting (Fri. Aug. 26, 11AM) as well as a “Great Tuscan Wines with Meats” tasting (Fri., Aug. 26, 1PM).

Click for schedules, locations, and directions.

Vintage Wine Dinners at Babbo with IWM
Italy's "Cult Wines"
Monday, August 15 ($495 per person)
Babbo's vintage seminar and dinner series continues with an emphasis on Italy’s rare cult wines. The French have their garagistes, the Californians their "Cult Cab" producers, and of course Italy has its share of boutique wineries (and wines) as well. Often with little more than a fanciful name to identify them ("Redigaffi," "Montevetrano," etc.), these limited-production gems have captured the hearts of critics and consumers alike... despite the difficulties inherent in finding them. We hunted down some of the rarer Italian cult wines for a tasting that will show them to be wines for the long haul, not just flashes in the pan.

How to Reserve Vintage Babbo Seats: Contact Caroline Marshall at 917.715.3599 and specify which tasting you would like to attend.

Click for the Hamptons Wine Festival!