and more:
• The East Coast: Veneto & Le Marche
• Central Italy: Abruzzo & Toscana
• The South & Islands: Campania & Sicilia

A Note from Sergio

A few years ago, I left New York and took a trip to Venice—something I'd done many times before. I was going to visit my friend and colleague Adriano, a born and bred Friulian who is deeply enmeshed in the local winemaking scene. At 35, he knows at least one person at each and every area estate, and he's a shameless and talented gossip, adept at constantly acquiring and exchanging information. Having him as my friend is like having access to my own private news team. My own private, temperamental, mustachioed news team.

“I'm so exhausted,” Adriano shouted out his window as he pulled up in his Fiat, honking, to the airport. I had been sitting on my suitcase in the fog for an hour. “I’ve been working nonstop, like a dog!” he said as he embraced me. He was as thin and tall as ever, his curly brown hair a mess.

“My girlfriend says that if I don’t cool it, she’ll dump me. But what can I do? There’s so much to be accomplished. I wish the week had eight days, the day, 30 hours. I can’t get it all done!” We took off down the highway.

“It's phone calls, meetings, one thing after another,” he said. “It's impossible.”

There was a moment of silence.

“Sergio!” he said suddenly, as if noticing me for the first time. “Ciao! Welcome! Come stai?”

We were on our way to Cormons, a small, plain town in the heart of Friuli's Collio region, an area known for its superior white wine, and for its experimental, maverick vintners Josko Gravner and Ales Kristancic among them.

“I leave before sunrise and get home after dinner,” he continued. “It's nonstop, did I tell you?” For the remainder of our ride, he elaborated on this sentiment.

Finally, at lunchtime, we arrived at La Subida, a cozy agriturismo with two restaurants. Adriano suggested that I check in while he went to collect some sample indigenous whites for us.

We met back at the agriturismo's roadside osteria, a bare-bones mountain hideaway that faced horse stables. We sat outside at a wooden picnic table and ordered prosciutto San Daniele, a fatty, paper-thin sliced regional specialty. Adriano brought out several Tocai wines from the area. He popped a piece of prosciutto into his mouth and took a sip of the first wine, Movia Tocai. I readied myself for a new monologue, but instead, Adriano kept quiet. He had just consumed the classic Tocai-and-San Daniele combination; he was content. I followed suit. The buttery-sweet prosciutto fat matched the weighty drink; the subtly salty character of the meat balanced the natural acidity of the wine. The hours I’d spent shuttling around airports faded from my mind. Adriano seemed to forget about the crushing stress he was under. In the distance, a few horses wandered around, chewing on grass.

Finally, Adriano started to supply me with quality industry reports, and I started to tell him about my store and my wife and kids. We were deep in conversation by the time the next dish arrived—potato frico, a cheese fritter made from 90-day-aged Montasio cheese. Soft at the center and crackly at the edges, the frico was at once sharp and smooth. We opened a bottle of bigger, richer Tocai, wood-aged and full of tannins that balanced the greasy cheese.

Next, the waiter suggested we try the minestrone soup. Though soup is usually a starter course, this one was especially thick, reminiscent of a stew, made with speckled brown borlotti beans, barley, and shredded bits of beef. It was mildly hot; instead of competing with the wines, it lent to them perfectly.

We opened 15 Ribolla Giallas to taste—the best of them were piercing and mineral-laden, with intense aftertastes. We matched them with mid-sized agnolotti stuffed with mincemeat of tender veal and topped with a dark brown glaze of meat and butter. The pasta was the ideal platform for the Ribollas—together with the luscious, delicate agnolotti, the bold wines satisfied, but didn’t overwhelm, our senses.

After two courses of lake fish we finished with a frittata, a thick omelet of wild herbs. The osteria had run out of their other offerings and the waiter had excused himself, run over to the farm, and plucked some still-warm eggs out from under their chickens. On his way back, he picked a few bunches of herbs from the front lawn. He showed up at the restaurant a minute later, holding the ingredients in his hands. Soon thereafter, the frittata arrived—dark from the red of Italian egg yolks, mellow, fresh, and wild from the local herbs. With it, Adriano and I drank Damijan’s luscious Ribolla.

As we ate and talked and ate and talked, it became clear that Adriano had spent the entire week doing the exact same thing we were doing, but in different places: Eating and chatting. Throughout our conversation, he revealed that every day he had enjoyed a five-hour lunch overlooking one vineyard or another, tasting wines, and giving or getting news. I should have known! By “nonstop,” he had clearly been referring to the nonstop consumption of beautiful meals. By “meetings,” he meant lunches. By “exhausted,” he meant pleasantly full. His girlfriend wasn’t mad at him for his workaholic tendencies; she was mad at him because he simply couldn't resist a great Tocai paired with some new and juicy industry tidbits.

“Would you like to meet tomorrow, too?” I asked as we said goodbye in the early evening. A friend of ours wanted me to taste his wines the next day, a Saturday, and his wife was making a meal.

Adriano gave me a high five. “I will definitely be there,” he said. “It doesn't matter to me. I mean, I work weekends, too.”

Now when I drink a Friulian white, I think of that delicious lunch near the stable, and of Adriano and his unique philosophy on life and work. Today, I am offering some of my favorites from that day, along with some other excellent whites. Try not to tire yourself out too much drinking them.

My best,
Sergio Esposito

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The Northeast: Trentino-Alto Adige & Friuli

TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE: CULTURAL INFUSION

Traminer or Gewurztraminer
Ancient winemaking tradition, privileged positioning and microclimates, and an infusion of Roman, German, and Austrian heritage: Trentino-Alto Adige remains Italy's best kept secret. In the Northernmost province of Italy, a mountainous zone squeezed between the borders of Austria and Switzerland, is one of Europe's oldest wine-growing sites, predating 15 BC. As the name suggests, Trentino-Alto Adige is comprised of two separate areas, each with its own distinct culture.

Throughout history Alto Adige has changed hands from the Romans to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and back to the Italians, and it has collected a potpourri of tradition and technique in its viticulture. German is still spoken here, and German wine names and appellations are often used alongside Italian ones. On the mountain slopes and hillsides the indigenous Lagrein thrives and the noble Pinot Noir performs at its best on Italian soil. The site is also fabled to be the origin of the Traminer grape (Gewurztraminer) as well as being host to varietals more commonly associated with Austria, Alsace, and Germany. Perhaps the region's greatest Gewurztraminer is made by Colterenzio – exotic and almost creamy, with marks of cinnamon, pepper, and nutmeg.

Colterenzio 2001 Gewurztraminer Cornell $58.29

FRIULI’S TRIFECTA VARIETALS

Pinot Grigio
Like Chianti and Soave before it, Italian Pinot Grigio has become so ubiquitous in American wine stores that it is easy for serious enophiles to pass it over. This genetic variation of Pinot Noir has great merit when treated kindly, though, and Friuli's top producers consistently show us why this varietal deserves attention and respect. The fruit actually ranges from an eponymous grey (thus the name "grigio" in Italian and "gris" in French) to a delicate, pinky mauve, with berries of varied shades often found within a single bunch. The resulting wine is similarly varied not only in color - due to different source fruit and vinification methods – but also in style, ranging from light and zippy to rich and mouth-filling, the latter being brilliantly captured by Jermann and Valle. Classic varietal characteristics include delicate aromas of flowers and lemon.

Scarbolo 2004 Pinot Grigio $13.61
Tenimenti d’Aba 2003 Pinot Grigio Banear $20.16
Jermann 2004 Pinot Grigio $24.98
Valle 2003 Pinot Grigio Araldica $31.11

Tocai Friulano
Tocai Friulano is Friuli's ambassador to the world, an offbeat indigenous varietal that has earned a place in diverse wine circles alongside its more ubiquitous cousins. The ancestry of the grape is widely debated, with some claiming a relation to Furmint, which furnishes Hungary's Tokaji. ("Friulano" was added to the name Tocai to avoid confusion with this famous dessert wine; eventually the wine may simply be labeled "Friulano" based on arrangements set by the EU.) Others point to the alias Sauvignon Vert or Sauvignonasse to back their assertion that Tocai is related to France's Sauvignon Blanc. Also grown in various other regions, this ancient varietal is at its best in the Collio zone of Friuli, where it is traditionally served with antipasti of smoked prosciutto and speck. This masculine white grape offers a range of characteristics brought out by the varying microclimates and producer styles, which range from crisp to a creamy texture and from smoky to peppery. The introductory bottlings from Scarbolo and Bastianich offer a simple display of Tocai's peach and pear notes with its signature mineral finish, while the select, later-maturing grapes that go into Bastianich's Tocai Plus create a more lush, opulent wine. Movia displays his trademark robust tropical side, while Ronco delle Betulle presents structure with plenty of supportive acidity.

Scarbolo 2003 Tocai Friulano $12.38
Bastianich 2004 Tocai Friulano $15.95
Ronco delle Betulle 2004 Tocai Friulano $19.14
Movia 2004 Tokai Gredic $25.25
Bastianich 2001 Tocai Plus $102.30 (1.5L)

Ribolla Gialla
Ribolla Gialla enjoys a long history as one of Friuli's oldest indigenous vines. Back in the 12th century, it was the drink of choice in the Republic of Venice under the name Rabiola del Collio. Today, the worldwide popularity of Pinot Grigio and local fanfare for Tocai have overshadowed this aromatic varietal. However, in the hands of many of Friuli's most iconoclastic producers the wine recaptures its own well-deserved glory. The four examples below are among the best Ribollas from Friuli, and each offers something different. Like all of La Castellada's wines, their Ribolla is incredibly concentrated, with ripe flavors of tropical fruit. On the other hand, Damijan's take on the grape reflects inspiration from his mentor Josko Gravner with a truly natural approach to winemaking. The wine displays an almost cider-like hue and provides notes of honey, nuts, and sweet spices with bitter undertones. Yet the most unique and controversial take on this varietal comes from Gravner himself. His 2001 release is the debut of his use with amphora to age the wines, while the 2000 release sees the final use of open vat fermentation in wood and aging in large oak barrels (click to read more). Both wines carry the cider hue and slight oxidized nuances while providing unyielding complexity and depth.

Just over the border in Slovenia the grape is known as Rebula, and it is also grown as Robola in Greece. These wines are generally dry and buttery with good acidity in their youth. However, many bottlings age well and shed their juvenile vivacity in favor of a mature richness; the perennial favorite from Movia is an oustanding example that can benefit from thirty years or more in the cellar. These truly unique wines show the range Friuli is capable of providing.

Movia 2003 Ribolla $25.24
Damijan 2002 Ribolla Gialla $43.45
La Castellada 2000 Ribolla Gialla $53.68
La Castellada 1998 Ribolla Gialla $49.98
Gravner 2000 Ribolla Gialla $89.87
Gravner 2001 Ribolla Anfora $89.87*
*Indicates future arrival

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The Northwest: Liguria & Piemonte

LIGURIA’S MEDITERRANEAN WHITES

Cinque Terre
The northeastern region of Liguria resembles a crescent moon, hugging the Mediterranean and stretching from France on its western tip to Toscana on the east. Most of the region is dominated by the Apennines, beginning their march down the Boot and trailing a poor, stony soil that shuns most crops but gives excellent vineyard land and fosters olive trees that give what is widely considered the best olive oil in Italy. The majestic mountain slopes fall away as they meet the sea, yielding to the famous beaches of the Riviera and finding a coastal climate that, in conjunction with the soil, creates optimal vineyard conditions.

The tiny wine zone of Cinque Terre is on the coast in the far eastern corner of Liguria, near the five villages that gave the area its name. The incredibly steep terraced vineyards here must be worked by hand and are so taxing that a monorail was built to transport grapes to a road at the foot of the hillsides. The native Bosco is the dominant varietal in this DOC (min. 60%) with the remainder made up of Albarola and/or Vermentino; these varietals are also used for a dried-grape version of the wine that is known as Sciacchetrà. Since the light, citrus-nosed Cinque Terre is a delightful complement to seafood, most of it is consumed locally by tourists and never reaches America.

Bisson 2004 Cinque Terre Marea $24.50

Pigato
At the opposite end of Liguria from Cinque Terre, the ancient Pigato is the center of much debate: some claim that this grape was brought to Liguria by the Greeks, while others insist that it is native to the Castelli Romani, where it was planted by Caesar’s legions, and a third faction believe it to be a relative of Vermentino. In fact, some experts posit that Pigato and Vermentino are inherently one and the same, their apparent differences born of distinct terroir and treatment in the vineyard and cellar. In tourist country Pigato is often used simply as a table wine to accompany the local seafood, but in the DOC of Riviera Ligure di Ponente on the western end of Liguria, it reaches its potential with more complex flavors and bright acidity. Here at the end of the Imperia province, Riccardo Bruna has been working Pigato for more than three decades at the Azienda Bruna. His efforts are reinforced by the excellent terroir of his Russeghine vineyard, which offers an exceptionally conducive gravelly subsoil of dry, permeable red earth that allows for deep root development. An exceptional interpretation of the Pigato grape that displays flavors of apricot, peach, and aromatic herbs.

Bruna 2004 Pigato 'Le Russeghine' $24.93

PIEMONTE’S OVERSHADOWED WHITES

Erbaluce
Known in Antiquity as Alba Lux or light of dawn for the copper luster it takes on when the sun hits it, Erbaluce is a white varietal grown only in Piemonte. Although some claim that the grape is a mutation of Fiano that was brought to northern Italy by the Romans, it is most likely that they found the indigenous vine already growing here at the foot of the Alps. In fact, the Romans were probably tending to this fruit when they first organized their haphazard vineyards into manageable rows. Later, medieval winemakers discovered that Erbaluce’s unusually high acidity lends itself to passito vinification and began to produce dessert wine in this to style.

Today, Erbaluce production is still contained within the glacial basin around the towns of Caluso and Canavese, where it has been organized into two DOCs, Erbaluce di Caluso and the smaller Canavese Bianco, both of which are pure varietal wines. The still, dry wines of these appellations are known for their high acidity, floral aromas, and crisp, minerally fruit flavors, which are nicely captured by both Cieck and Ferrando.

Cieck 2004 Erbaluce di Caluso 'Misobolo' $17.20
Ferrando 2004 Erbaluce di Caluso $21.60

Gavi
It is said in Piemonte that long ago, the golden-haired Princess Gavia married against the wishes of her father, the Frankish king Clodomiro. She and her bridegroom fled across Lombardia to the land ruled by the Goths, but a local innkeeper soon revealed their secret to soldiers sent to find her. In the end, Gavia’s love won the king’s approval and the couple settled here to rule the territory as vassals to Queen Amalasunta of the Goths. The area is now named for the princess, and the yellow-gold wine produced here also takes her name to remind the people of her beautiful tresses. Of course, some less romantic historians may tell a different story, but the delightful tale of a wine's past can enhance the drinking experience.

Gavi is made from the native white Cortese, a vigorous vine that thrives in southeastern Piemonte’s Monferrato Hills and produces fresh wines of high acidity with subtle flavors of apple, citrus, and honeysuckle. Gavi earned DOC status in 1974, and in 1998 it became Italy’s second DOCG white wine. Today, it is among the region’s top wines, overshadowing the neighboring white Arneis. Villa Sparina’s Gavi di Gavi, with its peachy aroma, rich palate, and signature almond finish, is one of the best expressions of this rare wine. The estate’s Monterotondo incorporates barrique aging that enriches the Cortese with a buttery oak flavor.

Villa Sparina 2004 Gavi di Gavi $18.92
Villa Sparina 2000 Gavi di Gavi ‘Monterotondo’ $70.00 (1.5L)

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The East Coast: Veneto & Le Marche

VENETO’S SOAVE AND GARGANEGA

Soave
Soave takes its name from a medieval village just east of Verona towards Lake Garda and is made from the local Garganega grape. Next to Pinot Grigio, it may be Italy's most recognized white. Like Chianti, it suffered a period of commercialization and mass production. However, long before the wine was misrepresented in the seventies, it basked in centuries of praise and was considered an enological masterpiece by the early rulers of the land. Today there is still a sea of insipid wine, but in the hands of the right producer - like Pieropan, Anselmi, and the new generation wineries Inama and Dama del Rovere - the native varietal achieves floral aromatics and exceptional levels of mouth-filling fruit. Rich flavors ranging from apple to melon accented by almonds on the finish are typical notes that come through in Veneto's rising star Dama del Rovere.

Dama del Rovere 2004 Soave Tremenalto $14.35

... and Quintarelli’s take on Soave
The master of Amarone makes a stunning white as well, an artful blend of Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Saorin (believed to be a clone of the Tokay grape and meaning "flavor" in Veronese dialect). Deft balance on the floral nose and in the brisk but full palate. It finishes with a seductive hint of dried honey and minerals. An easy crowd pleaser for the barbecue season.

Quintarelli 2004 Bianco Secco $38.50

LE MARCHE'S VERDICCHIO

Verdicchio
The region of Le Marche is renowned for its Verdicchio, a native varietal that has been cultivated here since the 14th century. The name is derived from verde, which refers to its slight green hue, and it is often classified as the ultimate fish-friendly wine due to its crisp, delicate nature. However, the wine has transformed itself since the days when it was distinguishable for its green, amphora-shaped bottle. Fortunately, the interpretations of individual winemakers are now shining through as several estates are producing crus and selected cuvees as well as implementing barrel aging.

The Sartarelli estate brings Verdicchio to new heights with three bottlings from the Castelli dei Jesi zone. Their Classico is the most simple and light of the three, giving a pure, fresh expression of varietal character. The second, Tralivio, is a light, persuasive wine, balanced in flavor with sweet and aromatic notes. Finally, the Balciana is a late-harvest, low-yield bottling that benefits from extended aging before release. Soft, round, and fresh in the mouth, it is well balanced, with good body and a long finish.

Sartarelli 2003 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico $12.62
Sartarelli 2003 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Tralivio $18.56
Sartarelli 2003 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Balciana $44.50

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Central Italy: Abruzzo & Toscana

ABRUZZO'S RARE TREBBIANO

Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
Some locals claim that the spirited Trebbiano d'Abruzzo is merely a new name for the once famed Campolese, and others refer to the vine as Bombino; both of these associations link it to Puglia's Bombino Bianco. There are further suggestions of a distinct clone that defies Trebbiano's long-held reputation for producing dreary, watery whites. In fact, this diamond in the rough is said to be exclusive to Edoardo Valentini, who was known locally as the “Lord of the Vines.” This resolute old-timer, who passed away in April, disregarded all modern conventions and wrapped his operations in a shroud of mystery, fervently guarding his production techniques from outsiders. His son Francesco continues to produce the family wines. Valentini Trebbiano takes on uncommon colors, aromas, depth, complexity, and ability to age. They display a startlingly natural character, their individual quirks only enhancing their profound charm. Taking years to develop their full profile, the wines often need plenty of aeration to blow off the occasional hint of reduction. This all falls perfectly in step with one of Edoardo’s favorite lines, Natura non facit saltus or “Nature doesn’t leap.”

Valentini 2003 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo $79.92
Valentini 2001 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo $89.10

TOSCANA & SARDEGNA SHARE A GRAPE

Vermentino
This white grape is grown throughout Italy, but reaches its height in Sardegna, Liguria, and at the Grattamacco estate in Toscana's coastal zone of Bolgheri. One common denominator these three areas share is their proximity to the sea: it is in these locations that Vermentino creates easy-drinking wines that are ideal with the local seafood. This Malvasian sub-variety most likely arrived in Italy by way of Spain. The Spanish occupation of Sardegna during the 15th century brought varietals like Cannonau (Grenache) and Carignano, but the white Vermentino is Sardegna's greatest grape attraction and is handled superbly by Dettori (an IWM favorite). Here the granite-based soils and cool Tyrrhenian breezes provide for steeliness, zesty flavors, and lemon-like acidity.

Grattamacco, one of pillars of Bolgheri's Super Tuscan movement, uses 100% Vermentino grapes to make a very round, medium-weight white. Critics often cite this Bianco as one of Bolgheri's most "authentic" whites, with the classic flavors and aromas of unmistakably Tuscan Vermentino. Like Quintarelli’s Bianco Secco, this is a summer crowd pleaser.

Dettori 2004 Dettori Bianco $35.75
Grattamacco 2003 Bianco $37.40
Massavecchia 1996 Vermentino $22.90

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The South & Islands: Campania & Sicilia

CAMPANIA'S INDIGENOUS WHITE VARIETALS

Fiano
Perhaps the most interesting white grape of the South is Fiano. This aristocratic varietal, praised by the Romans, recently received attention when it was crowned with the highest wine classification: Fiano di Avellino DOCG. The vine was facing near extinction in the 1940s when Campania's historic Mastroberardino estate claims to have saved it. Some say the name Fiano implies that bees are attracted to the sweet grape; there are also those who believe the name is derived from a type of apple, which is one of the signature notes of the grape along with herbs, smokiness, and hazelnuts (another popular crop of the region). Fiano proves that Campania is producing ageworthy white wines. Depending on the production style used, it is at its best fresh and in the summer, with Vesevo offering simple, straightforward varietal character and De Conciliis providing both the easy-drinking Donnaluna and the fuller, more complex Perella.

De Conciliis 2004 Fiano Donnaluna $16.50
Vesevo 2004 Fiano di Avellino $20.79
De Conciliis 2003 Fiano Perella $24.75

Greco di Tufo
Accompanying the Fiano with a new DOCG ranking is Greco di Tufo. Imported by the ancient Greeks, the vine thrives in the tufaceous volcanic soils around the hillside villages of Tufo. The grape offers refreshing flavors with mineral notes and an acidic streak that makes it lighter and crisper than the rivaling Fiano. Like its counterpart, it is claimed to have been rescued from near extinction by Mastroberardino.

Feudi di San Gregorio 2003 Greco di Tufo 'Cutizzi' $29.70

Falanghina
Perhaps overshadowed by the newly approved DOCG status of Campania's other two great white wines, Greco di Tufo and Fiano, quality Falanghina is now showing its true colors as it did long ago. As a component of the historically famous Falerno wine, this grape was once praised by the poets of classical Rome and graced the tables of emperors and dignitaries. At the time of the great Roman wars, generals were said to have supplied this golden and mystical juice to their conquering troops.

Fattoria La Rivolta 2003 Falanghina $20.64
DeLucia 2003 Falanghina 'Vigna delle Ginestre' $23.97

Pallagrello Bianco
Even more obscure than Fiano, Greco di Tufo, and Falanghina is Pallagrello Bianco. Often confused with another obscure varietal, Coda di Volpe, it is one of the few Italian grapes to have a sibling black grape (Pallagrello Nero). Pallagrello Bianco has become a recent favorite at IWM with the introduction of Vestini Campagnano's take on the little-known indigenous grape with its ripe tropical notes. Another producer specializing in the obscure varietal is Terre del Principe, who discovered a few pre-phylloxera plants well over 100 years old and from them now creates a lighter, leaner Pallagrello with notes of apple, melon, and pineapple.

Alois 2004 Caiati $22.28
Terre del Principe 2003 Pallagrello Bianco $35.64
Vestini Campagnano 2003 Pallagrello Bianco $38.36

GRILLO: MORE THAN JUST MARSALA

Grillo
While some claim it was brought by the Phoenicians, most believe that the white grape Grillo is native to Puglia and that it found its way to Sicilia as a replacement vine in the aftermath of the 19th century phylloxera outbreak. Grillo was at one time the preferred varietal in the blend for the fortified wine Marsala along with Catarratto. Today producers like Fondo Antico are taking advantage of the grape's high sugar content to produce full-bodied wines with evident notes of nuts and honeyed fruit. The top wineries have found that Grillo also shows well in blends with both international and fellow indigenous varietals, as in Fondo Antico's 50/50 blend with Chardonnay.

Fondo Antico 2002 Il Coro $27.54

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